Struggling with this troublesome Denali

[Doubeleive]

if you plan on keeping it and working on it yourself a tech2 is your best investment

 

[nonickatall]

on the gmt800's service stability is often related the yaw rate/steering angle sensor in the steering column

In my case it was the wheel bearing hub which have the traction control sensor included.

Before swapping you should read out the error codes....

If there is a code of the steering column sensor, then it's clear. If there is no code, then it's the wheel bearing hub very likely, because for the electronic of the car, it looks like that the wheel stops, not the sensor is not available.

 

[Doubeleive]

In my case it was the wheel bearing hub which have the traction control sensor included.

Before swapping you should read out the error codes....

If there is a code of the steering column sensor, then it's clear. If there is no code, then it's the wheel bearing hub very likely, because for the electronic of the car, it looks like that the wheel stops, not the sensor is not available.

possible but usually a bad hub or abs sensor will throw a abs code

 

[nonickatall]

possible but usually a bad hub or abs sensor will throw a abs code

Not necessary, the problem is that the sensor ring is a part of the axle, so to speak. And the sensor is a part of the housing.

Wenn the play is getting bigger, but it didn't failed yet complete and you go i to a curve and the pressure of the wheal leeds into the situation, that the sensor ring slightly gets off the sensor. Then you receive probably no error, but the message "traction control" appears and your power is reduced, like when you drive with one wheel in snow. That was, as it was at my car.

That I had a few times.

In my case, it was unluckily in the wintertime though I thought, probably there was really slippery ground. That came more often and on roads which were really dry. In that time, when I started thinking, what the cause could be, suddenly it happened that, when I turned the wheels all the way, the ABS was activated, but I thought: Well, I might have slammed on the brakes a little too quickly on slippery ground in the corner.

I had no errors in the memory.

And one day, there was a loud crash and from then on I had noises in the front and then I found out that my wheel bearing was defective.

I then replaced it, sensor included, and the error never came back.

In my case some rollers in the roller bearing were broken and lay sideways which was making the noise, but they didn't crash the sensor. Of course, if a roller comes out of the bearing and shaves off the ABS sensor, then you have an error message from then also.

Steering wheel sensors, in my experience, fail more suddenly and complete and make and error code.

 

[oldchev]

If you are good at doing your own stuff, then work through the issues. I do and save $$$.
My 2004 Yukon has had a plethora of issues, none of which I couldn't overcome, many using this forum for direction or ideas.
I too have the servcie stability issue. Even with new hubs, it persists. The hubs were replaced due to a complete front end overhaul so I did those. Ive had 3 radiators and 4 water pumps. Recently the trans stripped the splines on the sun shell. I had 278k on the trans. Front diff makes bearing noise but have kept the oil clean every 10k miles. The bearing lock tabs break on these then the bearing gets loose causing bearing wear. I have a spare now just in case. Yes, fuel pump. Oh, dont forget the blend door actuators. Ive been there for all and one, twice. And so on ... too much to list.

 

[savagetek]

Well, as you previously noted….about 160k is where things start going.…not everything, but some components just don’t have a service life past a certain point. Remember, you’re buying a 20+ year old vehicle, even if if it was maintained to the Nth degree, things go bad and 160k is about when it happens. I will tell you that in ‘03 there was was a change, refresh if you will, not so much with body but an electronics refresh of sorts. I had an ‘01 Tahoe that had not 1 problem in the 16 years I owned it from new. That truck never went back to the dealer nor any mechanic for anything. Normal wear items and maintenance aside that was a solid unit and I kick myself for selling it. My brother bought an ‘03 and the fuel pump and some other components failed the minute he made a left off the dealers lot. He traded that in an ‘05 and the fuel pump on that one went within 15k. It is what it is, fix your issues and move on or sell it and purchase another one. Or don’t. There is nobody on this forum that can tell you if you bought a needy unit but the reality of the situation is you are purchasing 20+ yr old vehicles and shit is going to start happening, lucky for you all of the problems you may or may not encounter have been documented and fixes are posted right behind the documented issues…99.99% of the time.
Personally I would keep your current ‘04 and fix whatever pops up, do all of your maintenance items and say a little prayer.
My opinion. Good luck.

Thank you for taking the time to document your experience and advice. I’ll keep relying on this forum for fixes and help.

 

[savagetek]

This.^^^^
Not trying to jinx you--But--has the transmission been replaced or repaired by the former owner? The transmission usually starts to give warning signs right around 160k. They've been known to go past that though. Is there a service history on the transmission itself? Fluid and filter changes at the recommended intervals?

I will need to investigate these further. I would it is original with regular fluid and filter changes.

 

[savagetek]

savagetek,
1) Sounds like it's fixed. Good.
2) Sounds like it's fixed, and you won't have the same problem again. Better.
3) Sounds like it's fixed. Good.
4) Body control module bullschidt would twist my nuts too, I get it. Hope this works.
5) Sounds like a new MAF will fix it. If not, it's likely a wiring issue; hopefully wiring was ruled out prior.
Murphy lives on my shoulder. I always make sure old @$$ wiring is not the problem before replacing stuff.
6) I've the same problem. Gonna check to be sure it's not a symptom of a bigger problem, but so long as the rear view mirror part of the rear view mirror works, it's not worth losing sleep or wasting analgesics on it.
7) Unless you've been in accidents where the Stability Control System has saved you at least $1000, you likely drive with enough wisdom and considerate observation, that this is not urgent.

So long as the problems aren't potentially symptoms of larger problems, you are still leagues ahead of anyone who spent a year's gross salary on a new vehicle.

This forum might even help you predict what could go wrong next, so you'll be less surprised.
(Wild guess: coolant quick connects?)
Start thinking like a cabdriver who wants to keep it for at least 300,000 miles.
Appreciate that the seller sold it for the reasons above, plan ahead, and you'll come out so far ahead, you may lose sight of yourself.

Thank you , love this advice, I’m going to keep plugging away

 

[savagetek]

if you plan on keeping it and working on it yourself a tech2 is your best investment

I’ve begun researching what it would take to obtain a Tech 2. Now it seems that I have a lot of homework to do regarding the tech2 because it appears there’s a lot of alternatives. I’ve researched online and prices on the tech2 range from $300 - $1500. Do you happen to have a link or a suggestion of where to purchase one with the exact set up? I need for my Yukon?

 

[ivin74]

on the gmt800's service stability is often related the steering angle sensor in the steering column

X2, I replaced my twice