Strut and Shock Replacement Experience

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2010gmcyukon

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Just wanted to share my experience in hopes that it helps someone else. This was my first time replacing struts and shocks so I learned a few things that might be helpful to other newbies. I used KYB MonoMax Shocks and MonoMax Truck Plus Struts. I didn't feel like messing with coil springs and from my research they appear to be a good product. I got about .5" rear lift and close to an inch front lift after installing them. I understand they may settle a bit over time.

I used this video as the guide on my 2010 Yukon. The info was solid and the process was just as described.

My first piece of advice is to carefully look at the list of tools at the beginning of the video. I have a decent set of tools, but there were a few things I didn't have. My wife enjoyed her first trip running to the store for an adapter and 21mm wrench. The process is fairly straightforward using the recommended tools.

My second piece of advice is to carefully inspect your sway bar links before hand. You can get new ones for $12 on Amazon, which may be well worth the trouble. Mine ended up being too rusted to loosen. I decided to cut them off so I could get enough flex to fit the new strut in. My wife REALLY enjoyed her second trip to the store to pick up new sway bar links.

I got them all done and went for a drive. They felt good overall and I like the handling. However, I immediately got the following DIC messages:
  • Service Stabilitrak
  • Service Traction Control
  • Service Trailer Brake System
I thought "****, what have I done?!?!?!" I started searching for these messages and found all kinds of possible issues...sensors, ground issues, all sorts of stuff. I poked around a bit and finally found the issue. I noticed a blue plug barely hanging off the frame above the rear shock. It was the rear wheel sensor plug. I reached up there, found where it was supposed to attach, and plugged it in. Turned the car on, still had all the messages. WTF?! I decided to check the other side...IT HAD COME UNPLUGGED AS WELL. I plugged it in and all the messages cleared.

I don't know how both of those came unplugged while replacing the shocks, but they managed to. If the one hadn't been hanging slightly off the frame, I probably wouldn't have noticed either of them.

My final piece of advice is to have an awesome wife that will run to get you stuff during projects.
 

iamdub

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Just wanted to share my experience in hopes that it helps someone else. This was my first time replacing struts and shocks so I learned a few things that might be helpful to other newbies. I used KYB MonoMax Shocks and MonoMax Truck Plus Struts. I didn't feel like messing with coil springs and from my research they appear to be a good product. I got about .5" rear lift and close to an inch front lift after installing them. I understand they may settle a bit over time.

I used this video as the guide on my 2010 Yukon. The info was solid and the process was just as described.

My first piece of advice is to carefully look at the list of tools at the beginning of the video. I have a decent set of tools, but there were a few things I didn't have. My wife enjoyed her first trip running to the store for an adapter and 21mm wrench. The process is fairly straightforward using the recommended tools.

My second piece of advice is to carefully inspect your sway bar links before hand. You can get new ones for $12 on Amazon, which may be well worth the trouble. Mine ended up being too rusted to loosen. I decided to cut them off so I could get enough flex to fit the new strut in. My wife REALLY enjoyed her second trip to the store to pick up new sway bar links.

I got them all done and went for a drive. They felt good overall and I like the handling. However, I immediately got the following DIC messages:
  • Service Stabilitrak
  • Service Traction Control
  • Service Trailer Brake System
I thought "****, what have I done?!?!?!" I started searching for these messages and found all kinds of possible issues...sensors, ground issues, all sorts of stuff. I poked around a bit and finally found the issue. I noticed a blue plug barely hanging off the frame above the rear shock. It was the rear wheel sensor plug. I reached up there, found where it was supposed to attach, and plugged it in. Turned the car on, still had all the messages. WTF?! I decided to check the other side...IT HAD COME UNPLUGGED AS WELL. I plugged it in and all the messages cleared.

I don't know how both of those came unplugged while replacing the shocks, but they managed to. If the one hadn't been hanging slightly off the frame, I probably wouldn't have noticed either of them.

My final piece of advice is to have an awesome wife that will run to get you stuff during projects.


Those plugs on the top of the frame rail disconnect themselves at the mere THOUGHT of a socket coming anywhere near them. I believe that a line should be added to any instruction list for replacing the rear shocks: "After torquing upper shock bolt to specs, reconnect wire harness on top of frame rail".
 

wjburken

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Those plugs on the top of the frame rail disconnect themselves at the mere THOUGHT of a socket coming anywhere near them. I believe that a line should be added to any instruction list for replacing the rear shocks: "After torquing upper shock bolt to specs, reconnect wire harness on top of frame rail".
This is so true.

Arnott even includes a warning/reminder sheet with their rear shocks.
 
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Yup, mine came with a warning sheet.

Knowing that those plugs were there, I made sure to wrench around them as best as I could and I didn't accidentally unplug any of them.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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