Stuck at the end of my project!!

[SunlitComet]

yeah actually you have to lower the front of the pan to do it.

 

[99'Yukon]

i'm almost positive the sprockets are lined up correctly. i honestly think it is either in the dizzy or my valve adjustments. the motor starts to crank over good, then just makes a crackling/ back firing sound, and then the crank slows. i've been keeping a trickle on my red top and it's helped, but i have had to get another set of plugs because of gas foul from that new spider system. it's hard to really adjust the valves when the motor won't run, but i'm hoping yall have some insight as how to adjust them correctly so it will start and at least run. i think the compresson is way off on those valves cause one rocker arm will be really loose, i'll tighten it down till the arm barely jiggles and then the one that was tight will be really loose after the motor is cranked over. its kind of hard to explain, but i am sure you know what i mean. the #1 cylinder was indeed at top dead center when i put the dizzy in, but who knows it could still be off by a little. the rotor was pointed in the general area of the #1 cylinder.

 

[SunlitComet]

Adjustments VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT

1. Turn the valve rocker arm nuts clockwise until all of the valve lash is removed.
2. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the alignment mark on the crankshaft balancer is aligned with the notch in the engine front cover tab.
3. Look at the number 1 cylinder valves as the crankshaft balancer alignment mark approaches the notch in the engine front cover tab. If a valve moves as the alignment mark moves into position, the engine is in the number 6 firing position. If this happens, turn the crankshaft clockwise one revolution in order to reach the number 1 cylinder firing position.

1. With the engine in the number 1 firing position, adjust the exhaust valves for cylinders number 1, 3, 4, and 8 and the intake valves for cylinders number 1, 2, 5, and 7.

4.1. Turn the valve rocker arm nut counter clockwise until the valve lash is felt in the valve pushrod. 4.2. Turn the valve rocker arm nut clockwise until all the valve lash is removed (zero valve lash). Zero valve lash can be felt by moving the valve pushrod up and down between your thumb and forefinger until there is no more up and down movement of the valve push rod.


4.3. When all the valve lash is removed, then turn the valve rocker arm nut clockwise 1 additional turn (360 degrees).

1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise 1 revolution until the alignment mark on the crankshaft balancer is aligned with the notch in the engine front cover tab.

1. With the engine in the number 6 firing position, adjust the exhaust valves for cylinders number 2, 5, 6, and 7 and the intake valves for cylinders number 3, 4, 6, and 8.

6.1. Turn the valve rocker arm nut counter clockwise until the valve lash is felt in the valve pushrod. 6.2. Turn the valve rocker arm nut clockwise until all the valve lash is removed (zero valve lash). Zero valve lash can be felt by moving the valve pushrod up and down between your thumb and forefinger until there is no more up and down movement of the valve push rod.


6.3. When all the valve lash is removed, then turn the valve rocker arm nut clockwise 1 additional turn (360 degrees).

---------- Post added at 10:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 AM ----------

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE 2

IMPORTANT: Rotate the number 1 cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. The engine front cover has 2 alignment tabs and the crankshaft balancer has 2 alignment marks (spaced 90 degrees apart) which are used for positioning number 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) . With the piston on the compression stroke and at top dead center, the crankshaft balancer alignment mark (1) must align with the engine front cover tab (2) and the crankshaft balancer alignment mark (4) must align with the engine front cover tab (3).

1. Rotate the crankshaft balancer clockwise until the alignment marks on the crankshaft balancer are aligned with the tabs on the engine front cover and the number 1 piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke.

1. Align white paint mark on the bottom stem of the distributor, and the pre-drilled indent hole in the bottom of the gear (3).

NOTE: The OBD II ignition system distributor driven gear and rotor may be installed in multiple positions. In order to avoid mistakes, mark the distributor on the following components in order to ensure the same mounting position upon reassembly:

• The distributor driven gear
• The distributor shaft
• The rotor holes

Installing the driven gear 180 degrees out of alignment, or locating the rotor in the wrong holes, will cause a no-start condition. Premature engine wear or damage may result.

1. With the gear in this position, the rotor segment should be positioned as shown for a V6 engine (1) or V8 engine (2).

• • The alignment will not be exact.
  • If the driven gear is installed incorrectly, the dimple will be approximately 180 degrees opposite of the rotor segment when the gear is installed in the distributor.

1. Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft to the drive tab of the distributor.

1. Guide the distributor into the engine. Ensure that the spark plug towers are perpendicular to the centerline of the engine.

1. Once the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned with the pointer cast into the distributor base.

• • This pointer may have a 6 cast into it, indicating that the distributor is to be used on a 6 cylinder engine or a 8 cast into it, indicating that the distributor is to be used on a 8 cylinder engine.
  • If the rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and the camshaft may be off a tooth or more.
  • If this is the case, repeat the procedure again in order to achieve proper alignment.

NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

1. Install the distributor mounting clamp bolt.

Tighten
Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft) .

1. Install the distributor cap.
2. Install two NEW distributor cap screws.

Tighten
Tighten the screws to 2.4 N.m (21 lb in) .

1. Install the electrical connector to the distributor.
2. Install the spark plug wires to the distributor cap.

1. Install the ignition coil wire.

The wire must not touch anything like the dip stick. Rubbing will make a ground/short after time of use.

1. For V8 engines, connect a scan tool.

1. Monitor the Camshaft Retard Offset value. Refer to Computers and Control Systems Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment.

IMPORTANT: If the Malfunction Indicator lamp is turned on after installing the distributor, and a DTC P1345 is found, the distributor has been installed incorrectly.

1. Refer to Installation Procedure 2 for proper distributor installation.

 

[Matt06Yukon]

I've always heard people speculate that "the timing chaing jumped a tooth" but never ever has that been the case. I can't even imagine how thats possible. Search for something simpler. When I changed my Dizzy, I had a good deal of monkeying around to get it correct.

 

[SunlitComet]

if you skipped a tooth trust me you have bigger issues to worry about. i think the story is one of those "back in the day" comments.

 

[Matt06Yukon]

Exactly.

 

[99'Yukon]

well guys, finally got a chance to go look at the yukon again tonight and i guess today was my lucky day. i raised #1 to tdc and BAM the dizzy was out 180 degrees. did some valve adjusting before the test fire to make sure everything was good and just snug enough. cranked over twice and fired right up! i do have one small problem though, before i go putting everything back together (valve covers, etc. ) i noticed that all my gauges are working properly minus the oil pressure gauge. it stays pegged out way past 80psi the whole time its running. the needle will bounce back up to where 80 is when the key is turned to the on position, but once its running, its pegged... could it be a bad oil pressure sender? or maybe a ground wire or short? just want to get that gauge worked out before i go slapping everything back on. also, what is a good break in procedure? run it hard, or run it like normal driving conditions for first 1500 or so miles?

 

[SunlitComet]

pegged gauge high is more like an open circuit like something is not plugged in. a short would keep it pegged low.

you could use this it is from the ht383e sheet but i change the viscosity of oil in it.

Start-up and Break-in Procedures
1. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with 5w30 motor oil (non-synthetic) to the recommended
oil fill level on the dipstick. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids such as coolant, power
steering fluid, etc.
2. The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. To prime the
engine, first remove the distributor to allow access to the oil pump drive shaft. Note the position of the distributor
before removal. Install the oil priming tool, GM part number 12368084. Using a 1/2" dill motor, rotate the engine oil
priming tool clockwise for three minutes. While you are priming the engine, have someone else rotate the crankshaft
clockwise to supply oil throughout the engine and to all the bearing surfaces before the engine is initially started. This
is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits
for extended periods of time. Reinstall the distributor in the same orientation as it was removed.
After the engine has been installed in the vehicle, recheck the oil level and add oil as required. It is also good practice
to always recheck the CMP offset after removal and reinstallation of the distributor. See step 4 or engine specifications
for the proper distributor information.
3. Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and the car
cannot fall into gear. Verify everything is installed properly and nothing was missed.
4. Ignition timing is non adjustable on this engine. The high voltage switch (distributor) must be installed correctly for
proper camshaft position (CMP) retard offset or the service engine soon light will be illuminated and DTC P1345 will
be set in the powertrain control module. (see GM service information for details)
5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow the oil
sump and water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration runs.
6. Once the engine is warm, verify correct camshaft position (CMP) retard offset using a scan tool.
7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide open throttle
(WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.
8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 4000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
10. Change the oil and filter. Replace with 5w30 motor oil (non synthetic). Inspect the oil
and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
11. Drive the next 500 miles under normal conditions or 12 to 15 engine hours. Do not run the engine at its maximum
rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning
properly.
13. Do not use synthetic oil for break-in. It would be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended oil
change and mileage accumulation.

 

[99'Yukon]

well everyone, the day has come. my yukon is back on the road and running great! it purrs like a kitten and you barely have to hit the gas to jump up to speed, but i do have a few more kinks to work out. my oil pressure gauge is still staying pegged out way past 80psi. stays in the same position whether the truck is on or off, but does move up and down a little and got a new pressure sensor today... i do have a brand new in box mechanical oil pressure gauge, could i possibly run that, and how do i? i also have a very small coolant leak coming from the middle drivers side freeze plug which is of course behind the motor mount! is there any way possible to seal this leak without having to jack the motor back up?? other than that, i am going to go to a friends shop tomorrow to put the scan tool on it to reset the P1345 code correctly. i'm very happy with the power and outcome of this project, just wish i could get this thing cleared up

 

[SunlitComet]

fix your existing gauge issue. and no.