SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
Well the fix it.
Stuck in park!?
- Thread starter bigblackhoe
- Start date
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carbed87
Member
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2010
- Posts
- 41
- Reaction score
- 6
sometimes i have to go up from park and turn the wheel a little bit, then i can hear a little "click" then it falls into drive no problem...doesn't sound likt it would be a solenoid thing though. maybe a streched shifter cable?
SunlitComet
OBS Jedi-Do Good
The steering wheel should not have any direct relation to the shifter. Only indirectly where the lock cylinder is involved.
I go every where
Member
I had the same problem. It was the brake switch. I had to slam on the brake and pull the gear shifter down at the same time. It actually saved my truck from getting stolen. The theif broke the door handle, turned over the ignition and snapped the gear shifter off the coloumn and gave up!
One way to know if its the switch is if it is locked up, turn the key into the first position, (no longer need to step on the brake to pull it out of gear) put the truck in neutral and then start the truck and put it in drive.
One way to know if its the switch is if it is locked up, turn the key into the first position, (no longer need to step on the brake to pull it out of gear) put the truck in neutral and then start the truck and put it in drive.
Fixed mine today. It was the brake switch causing problems. (Tricky little part to get at it was.)
Before I removed it, looking straight up at it, I rotated it counterclockwise a few degrees. (Effectively disengaging the hook or slot that clips onto the booster(master cylinder?) linkage rod. The shift interlock system started working perfectly at that point so I knew I was on the right track.
Just in case I also disabled the airbag's before starting.
I remember reading about some user's experiencing a problem with the harness that connects to the switch chafing, but saw no damage to mine.
Before I removed it, looking straight up at it, I rotated it counterclockwise a few degrees. (Effectively disengaging the hook or slot that clips onto the booster(master cylinder?) linkage rod. The shift interlock system started working perfectly at that point so I knew I was on the right track.
Just in case I also disabled the airbag's before starting.
I remember reading about some user's experiencing a problem with the harness that connects to the switch chafing, but saw no damage to mine.
Last edited:
OP
OP
bigblackhoe
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2012
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Mine also was the brake switch..
Replaced it and all has been fine ever since...
Thanks for all the help and a big THANK YOU to Sunlitcomet!
Replaced it and all has been fine ever since...
Thanks for all the help and a big THANK YOU to Sunlitcomet!
chaingun427
OBS Mad Scientist
My harness actually burned off at each connector, I had to solder all the wires back together
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
Hi,
Since I recently replaced my flexplate I was removing bolts for the bell housing.
There is one ground braid connected at one of the upper bell housing bolts and if it's disconnected it is not possible to get the transmission out of park.
Regards
Magnus
Since I recently replaced my flexplate I was removing bolts for the bell housing.
There is one ground braid connected at one of the upper bell housing bolts and if it's disconnected it is not possible to get the transmission out of park.
Regards
Magnus
JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
I think I found the actuator sunlit was talking about. There is a steel rod that goes into the actuator. locate the black plastic end that is attached to the steel rod. Pry it off and the rod just pulls out of the actuator allowing for shifting out of park. This should only be done as a last resort until you find the problem. You will need to remove the lower plastic panel to gain access to the actuator and related parts.
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CandyMan337
TYF Newbie
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- May 14, 2014
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I had a similar problem recently. Mine turned out to be the shift cable. One of the tabs that lock the cable in place on the trans. Dried & broke so it wouldn't shift right. It's under the driver side of the truck in a bracket coming off the side if the trans. The cable cost me $100. Changed it out myself. Make sure you don't bend that bracket out of place. If you do it won't shit.
