Successful sound deadening for headers?

[ls1frc]

Trans fluid I stuck with GM fluid. I put redline in the rear diff and I think its whining now. Great lol.

Were on a road trip and the engine noise did not pass the wife test. Cold starts sound legitimately awful, never had an LS motor this loud when cold.

Kooks did offer to try to fix my leaking ball socket connection, may try that.

I did see similar complaints online about the L94 being very noisy when cold. It quiets up very nicely when warm. I think if I had a major issue it would be the opposite.

 

[ls1frc]

Inspected the floor before committing to anything...

Should the MLV replace the jute all together? I don't see how everything will fit under there if not.

Also what is the black tar looking stuff on the metal? Should I put the sound deadener right over that or just try to get it on bare metal?

What about up the firewall where there is already some material? Is there any good way to loosen this enough to get one or two pieces of sound deadener behind that?

How does the center console get removed? I don't want to break anything else. Already broke the tabs off one of the trim pieces. Going to try JB welding it back.

 

[91RS]

That stuff is the factory deadener. From what I understand there is no point in putting deadener on top of deadener, even if that second layer is much better quality stuff. So only on the bare metal. And yes, you would more than likely remove the jute or nothing will fit well. I can’t remember which truck you have but in the Chevy and GMC the center console is held in by the front seats. In an Escalade there are two 10mm bolts under the cup holder and also by the seats. Don’t take out the philip head screws on the side though, the plastic is very weak and they’re basically one time use.

 

[ls1frc]

That stuff is the factory deadener. From what I understand there is no point in putting deadener on top of deadener, even if that second layer is much better quality stuff. So only on the bare metal. And yes, you would more than likely remove the jute or nothing will fit well. I can’t remember which truck you have but in the Chevy and GMC the center console is held in by the front seats. In an Escalade there are two 10mm bolts under the cup holder and also by the seats. Don’t take out the philip head screws on the side though, the plastic is very weak and they’re basically one time use.

I've got a 2012 yukon XL SLT.

Looks like there's a metal base underneath the center console plastic. Is that easy to remove? From what I read, you have to cover everything with the MLV or it's not very effective.

This stuff is quite heavy as well and cost almost $300. I am starting to get resistant to even trying this in the first place.

 

[91RS]

The base is the part that is held onto the console with the philip head screws I wouldn't recommend removing. Once you take the front seats out the console will just lift out (I did forget to mention the electrical connector(s) which are under the cup holder). That base is pretty tight to the floor but I want to say there is jute padding under the carpet there also so removing that should let it work still.

 

[ls1frc]

The base is the part that is held onto the console with the philip head screws I wouldn't recommend removing. Once you take the front seats out the console will just lift out (I did forget to mention the electrical connector(s) which are under the cup holder). That base is pretty tight to the floor but I want to say there is jute padding under the carpet there also so removing that should let it work still.

Got it thanks.

Will report back if it makes any difference.

 

[91RS]

If it doesn’t then I won’t bother doing mine when I replace the carpet!