Tahoe weight reduction

[swathdiver]

Even with a big converter the turbine still needs time to build up pressure. These guys are in the 1k hp range so yes they are gonna have larger turbines. If he had a bump box he could build boost and bump into the staging area and not have to worry about the delay.

If you have seen the dyno videos you so I see The Hoe builds boost pretty fast and I think he's got a 3600 converter.

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No, I haven't watched any of those and never heard of a bump box. Last year was the first time in 24 years since I'd been to the track and with a whole new platform; so things have changed!

The fastest car I worked on, an advisor really, ran in the 7s, it had no trouble leaving the line under boost as did the cars I built and raced. We weren't making 1000 horsepower either, these were street cars or streetable cars from 300-600 horsepower usually. 60-1 turbos were all the rage though I liked the slightly smaller ones for everyday use, the TA-48 and TA-49. Last time I checked, it seemed they don't even use those designations anymore.

The turbo on my '79 Buick was an Air Research TBO348 or something like that, it's turbine section was too big, .81 AR and I dropped it to .63 to make the car more fun to drive.

 

[bottomline2000]

No, I haven't watched any of those and never heard of a bump box. Last year was the first time in 24 years since I'd been to the track and with a whole new platform; so things have changed!

The fastest car I worked on, an advisor really, ran in the 7s, it had no trouble leaving the line under boost as did the cars I built and raced. We weren't making 1000 horsepower either, these were street cars or streetable cars from 300-600 horsepower usually. 60-1 turbos were all the rage though I liked the slightly smaller ones for everyday use, the TA-48 and TA-49. Last time I checked, it seemed they don't even use those designations anymore.

The turbo on my '79 Buick was an Air Research TBO348 or something like that, it's turbine section was too big, .81 AR and I dropped it to .63 to make the car more fun to drive.

HAha, these days guys are trying to make 5-600 on motor and THEN boost it lol. I can only assume the 47-48 is a reference to turbine size. These days most refer to turbos based on compressor size and they are usually 67-88mm. You still see the AR reference to sizing but I haven't dug that deep into it to understand what's the best setup. Trick makes a nice kit at a good price..I was all set on a supercharger, but the turbo kits are very tempting....

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[swathdiver]

HAha, these days guys are trying to make 5-600 on motor and THEN boost it lol. I can only assume the 47-48 is a reference to turbine size. These days most refer to turbos based on compressor size and they are usually 67-88mm. You still see the AR reference to sizing but I haven't dug that deep into it to understand what's the best setup.

Yes, the compressor on that one was .48 AR, or it started out that way! It's all a giant math problem or set of math equations really.

 

[rpm-inc]

Yes, the compressor on that one was .48 AR, or it started out that way! It's all a giant math problem or set of math equations really.

No, I haven't watched any of those and never heard of a bump box. Last year was the first time in 24 years since I'd been to the track and with a whole new platform; so things have changed!

The fastest car I worked on, an advisor really, ran in the 7s, it had no trouble leaving the line under boost as did the cars I built and raced. We weren't making 1000 horsepower either, these were street cars or streetable cars from 300-600 horsepower usually. 60-1 turbos were all the rage though I liked the slightly smaller ones for everyday use, the TA-48 and TA-49. Last time I checked, it seemed they don't even use those designations anymore.

The turbo on my '79 Buick was an Air Research TBO348 or something like that, it's turbine section was too big, .81 AR and I dropped it to .63 to make the car more fun to drive.

 

[rpm-inc]

No, I haven't watched any of those and never heard of a bump box. Last year was the first time in 24 years since I'd been to the track and with a whole new platform; so things have changed!

The fastest car I worked on, an advisor really, ran in the 7s, it had no trouble leaving the line under boost as did the cars I built and raced. We weren't making 1000 horsepower either, these were street cars or streetable cars from 300-600 horsepower usually. 60-1 turbos were all the rage though I liked the slightly smaller ones for everyday use, the TA-48 and TA-49. Last time I checked, it seemed they don't even use those designations anymore.

The turbo on my '79 Buick was an Air Research TBO348 or something like that, it's turbine section was too big, .81 AR and I dropped it to .63 to make the car more fun to drive.

I can only assume you mean 7's in the 1/8 with 300-600hp? This got a little off track. So.....tahoe weight reduction amounts? Who has done what?

 

[swathdiver]

I can only assume you mean 7's in the 1/8 with 300-600hp? This got a little off track. So.....tahoe weight reduction amounts? Who has done what?

No, the odd-fire car ran 7s but the stuff I regularly worked on made 300-600 horses and into the 10s. I don't remember how much horsepower the odd-fire motor made.

 

[adriver]

This got a little off track. So.....tahoe weight reduction amounts? Who has done what?

Yeah, and most of it was to help you beyond what you had asked. Frankly your thread itself is just misguided, and IMO extremely silly. You're trying to convince either us or yourself that buying a 2 1/2 ton, 18 ft long 7 seater is worth losing 5 seats so you can save about 140lbs. You want to part out your perfectly good truck, when all you need to do is add a turbo and swap trans to an SUV. There are build threads and other threads that answer this if you just search a little. I tried helping, but I'm back to being annoyed by this thread. I'll stay out of this thread after this.

 

[bottomline2000]

Biggest I've seen is converting the front suspension to coilovers. You can lose your torsion bars and change the control arms to djms. I have a custom trans mount that weighs about 5lbs compared to the heavy stocker..

You wanna get serious..pull all a.c. out from condenser back..lose the headliner, door panels, carpet, lose the roof rack and all seats. Throw some 17s on it and relocate the battery to the back of the truck. the grey truck I posted the video on even has his rear bumper drilled out..if you serious about going fast either up the power or strip it..

I'd be happy with mine pullin high 11s on 24s with full interior..

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[rpm-inc]

Yeah, and most of it was to help you beyond what you had asked. Frankly your thread itself is just misguided, and IMO extremely silly. You're trying to convince either us or yourself that buying a 2 1/2 ton, 18 ft long 7 seater is worth losing 5 seats so you can save about 140lbs. You want to part out your perfectly good truck, when all you need to do is add a turbo and swap trans to an SUV. There are build threads and other threads that answer this if you just search a little. I tried helping, but I'm back to being annoyed by this thread. I'll stay out of this thread after this.

If you read the first 2 sentences of the original post, you would know that I have a turboed engine to go in a tahoe, yukon, escalade. I want to go 10's in a big truck on street tires. Why? Because everybody has a fast mustang. That would be too easy. Plus tahoes are cheap. And generally in nicer condition then silverados of the same year.

2004 lq4
243 heads
jfr 218/221 cam
converted to flex fuel, primarily e70
BTR dual spring kit
manley pushrods
Huron speed turbo kit
vs racing 7875 cast wheel turbo
head studs
ls9 head gaskets
walbro 450 in the tank, aem 380 with a sump on a hobbs switch
-8 feed, -6 return with referenced fpr
id1700 fuel injectors
billet triple disc 3000 stall
Fresh built 80e (would have to get torn down for a 4x4 ouput shaft)

I have a billet t4 s480 I could also install, but I love how fast the 7875 spools.

So install all this, AND lose some weight.....

 

[randeez]

i mean both of those tahoes above make about 1k hp and run top of the 9s.... dunno how much weight reduction they've done but even if you did zero reduction... another 1000lbs would, in theory keep you at the top of 10sec 1/4 mile. 1000lbs would be full interior strip, alum seat, no dash, get rid of anything on the outside you dont need, light wheels/tires/brakes

do it.... or dont
i am also in the party of keep it full interior