Tailgate strikers

[east302]

Thanks for taking the measurement for me.

The hinge pin bushings are original from what I can tell (still had factory paint overspray) and there's no movement in the tailgate. There's no rust (Mississippi) on the hinges or their welds to the body.

All three of the gaskets are new. The upper one is a slightly different design than the original. I've seen some where the flap rests on top of the glass in its closed position, but mine never stays and always folds back under.

A water hose test with the gasket in both positions yielded the same results: a leak where the tailgate gasket does not meet the bottom of the liftglass.

It's as though the right side of the tailgate needs to come up about 1/4" so that the tailgate gasket meets the underside of the lift glass. To make that happen, I'd have to bend the hinges somehow. I've been hesitant to do that.

No amount of monkeying around with the liftglass hinges at the top would make it work, either.

I had done a post on the problem maybe a year ago. Although two or three other people had the exact issue, none of us could figure it out.

Maybe ours were all built by the same defective robot.

 

[Kelsda]

Thanks for taking the measurement for me.

The hinge pin bushings are original from what I can tell (still had factory paint overspray) and there's no movement in the tailgate. There's no rust (Mississippi) on the hinges or their welds to the body.

All three of the gaskets are new. The upper one is a slightly different design than the original. I've seen some where the flap rests on top of the glass in its closed position, but mine never stays and always folds back under.

A water hose test with the gasket in both positions yielded the same results: a leak where the tailgate gasket does not meet the bottom of the liftglass.

It's as though the right side of the tailgate needs to come up about 1/4" so that the tailgate gasket meets the underside of the lift glass. To make that happen, I'd have to bend the hinges somehow. I've been hesitant to do that.

No amount of monkeying around with the liftglass hinges at the top would make it work, either.

I had done a post on the problem maybe a year ago. Although two or three other people had the exact issue, none of us could figure it out.

Maybe ours were all built by the same defective robot.

Found a few tailgate strikers from a couple of 94 trucks, these are the same length all metal originally I measured nylon bushing I said half inch ng it’s 9/16 found a few more with nylon on them 1994 tailgate strikers are 1/2 inch I don’t know why the change but I’m going to try them out. Any luck with water issue ? Do you think it is possible to remove tailgate carefully remove hinge and weld a shim. Might take some time try a few different shims 1/32 1/16 and so on maybe both sides to keep body lines consistent

 

[east302]

Thanks for the updated measurement. I did try slicing a piece of heater hose over it. I think it was 3/8” but don’t recall the thickness. Anyways, it was too tight—the door wouldn’t even shut.

I think it has to be an alignment issue with the top glass but I never could figure out how to make it cooperate.

I briefly considered taking the tailgate off and seeing what I could do with it. It has a spring-loaded torsion bar in it, so I was hesitant to pull that joker out. The hinges are welded to the body and tailgate, so there’s no easy adjustment there.

I did contact the previous owner about it. He couldn’t say how long it had been leaking, but did remember having the tailgate glass replaced several years ago. If I had to guess, that’s when it started.

To keep it dry, I added some RTV under the tailgate gasket to raise it up about 1/8” so that it meets the bottom of the lift glass. It’s dry, but still bugs me.


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[Kelsda]

Thanks for the updated measurement. I did try slicing a piece of heater hose over it. I think it was 3/8” but don’t recall the thickness. Anyways, it was too tight—the door wouldn’t even shut.

I think it has to be an alignment issue with the top glass but I never could figure out how to make it cooperate.

I briefly considered taking the tailgate off and seeing what I could do with it. It has a spring-loaded torsion bar in it, so I was hesitant to pull that joker out. The hinges are welded to the body and tailgate, so there’s no easy adjustment there.

I did contact the previous owner about it. He couldn’t say how long it had been leaking, but did remember having the tailgate glass replaced several years ago. If I had to guess, that’s when it started.

To keep it dry, I added some RTV under the tailgate gasket to raise it up about 1/8” so that it meets the bottom of the lift glass. It’s dry, but still bugs me.


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Try dorman 38427 all metal from looks of picks replaces liftgate on 94 blazer

 

[bowtieman55]

View media item 27419 View media item 27420
The original style with the plastic sleeve is no longer available, so we have to use the same ones that are used for our front doors. They are the same thickness as the originals, when new, and work perfect as a replacement. Since they are all steel, they won't deteriorate like the plastic sleeves do. I installed a couple of the GM replacements on my '97 last night.

The GM number is 15013147 and the Dorman number is 38428.

 

[east302]

Thanks for the update. So the Dorman (which doesn’t have a sleeve) is the same diameter as the stock one with the sleeve?


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[bowtieman55]

Thanks for the update. So the Dorman (which doesn’t have a sleeve) is the same diameter as the stock one with the sleeve?


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Both the GM (shown in black) and the Dorman are a larger diameter, which is the same as the factory striker with the sleeve in place.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Old thread but WTH. I used a piece of 1/2 (I think) fuel pipe and wrapped it in black electrical tape. Lasts about a year or so before it falls off. Closes a bit tight but doesn't rattle. Might spring for some Dorman's

 

[bowtieman55]

Old thread but WTH. I used a piece of 1/2 (I think) fuel pipe and wrapped it in black electrical tape. Lasts about a year or so before it falls off. Closes a bit tight but doesn't rattle. Might spring for some Dorman's

The GM number is 15013147 and the Dorman number is 38428. I like not having to "make" something work.

 

[89Suburban]

OMG guys really!!??

https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/fix-slamming-doors-striker-door-latch-repair.624/