Tapping getting louder. Can’t pinpoint and have tried stethoscope to no avail.

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NickTransmissions

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If nothing else, if he pulls that plug, he’ll be able to see the torque convertor and know for sure where it’s at. :cheers:
For sure, leave no stone unturned! :cheers:

If it is the flex plate he just needs to yank the trans, put a new one on. Though I'd want to know if there was a harmonic in the engine or the converter or whatever that caused the flex plate to crack. Or perhaps one or more TC-flex plate bolts came loose. Happened to one of my customers a while back who replaced his TC thinking it would solve his transmission problems but failed to fully torque the bolts. They worked loose and cracked/broke the flex plate.

@iboughtatahoe23 - see if the noise is more pronounced on the side w/the missing stud vs the other side (unless that has missing studs also).

Mine is noticably louder on the driver side where the missing stud is.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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What exactly did the local mechanic do to diag the trans? Did he/they tell you?
At minimum, he should have taken it on a test drive w/a two way scanner to observe shifts being commanded and confirming they were actually happening. If nothing odd was seen on the scan tool but drivability symptoms were observed, he should have dropped the pan (confirmed w/you first to get the 'ok' if this meant the diag cost would go up), ohm'ed the solenoids, internal mode switch, pressure switches and speed sensors. If those all checked out, next step is to separate the valve body halves and test all the valve trains on the Sonnax tester (or tell you he doesn't have one and could not complete that part of the diagnosis and recommend you take it to a transmission shop for further investigation).


I was just about to ask you why you think you need a jack and stands but decided to take a quick look under my hood to see if I could get to the rear dr side exhaust stud to install the clamp without having to take the wheel or exhaust off.

Low and behold I just 'discovered' that I also have a missing bolt/nut at that location!

Note the last bolt hole location - nothing's there.
View attachment 402795

For what it's worth, I also have no soot or other signs of leakage other than the tick sound - the same tick I hear in your video.

Again, I could be wrong (and its worth checking just to be sure as @wjburken suggested) but I don't think your flex plate is broken.
I think it's your missing stud/nut or bolt (or whatever the hell goes there).

I guess we both have clamps to install...
So dealership didn’t do the diagnosis, I went to two different local mechanics and one took a ride with me and didn’t use any computer. Just rode along and said nothings wrong. And second mechanic claimed he drove around in it and it felt fine…. And about the stud. So if it doesn’t cover any thing that makes me more worried,,, the noise is coming from the transmission pan area or like the torque converter area.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

iboughtatahoe23

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For sure, leave no stone unturned! :cheers:

If it is the flex plate he just needs to yank the trans, put a new one on. Though I'd want to know if there was a harmonic in the engine or the converter or whatever that caused the flex plate to crack. Or perhaps one or more TC-flex plate bolts came loose. Happened to one of my customers a while back who replaced his TC thinking it would solve his transmission problems but failed to fully torque the bolts. They worked loose and cracked/broke the flex plate.

@iboughtatahoe23 - see if the noise is more pronounced on the side w/the missing stud vs the other side (unless that has missing studs also).

Mine is noticably louder on the driver side where the missing stud is.
The noise actually comes from the opposite side of the broken stud, under the car and comes towards the middle under the car vs the top side of the engine bay where the stud is actually broken, no noise from that area.
 
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iboughtatahoe23

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What do you mean by this?

What are you really "afraid" of?
Bc if it’s not even covering anything like you had mentioned, ( the broken stud)
Then what would be making noise? Hopefully not flexplate.


Also, is there anything I should be concerned about when taking off that plug? Can I break anything if I’m not careful?
 

NickTransmissions

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Bc if it’s not even covering anything like you had mentioned, ( the broken stud)
Then what would be making noise? Hopefully not flexplate.


Also, is there anything I should be concerned about when taking off that plug? Can I break anything if I’m not careful?
The stud/nut clamps the manifold to the cylinder head on the right side of the exhaust port so if there's nothing clamping it down, it will leak exhaust gasses and tick.

Check your other bolts/nuts on the exhaust manifolds and make sure none are loose or fill a spray bottle with soapy water. Spray the solution over the manifolds and look for bubbles. If bubbles appear, you've found the leak(s).

Inspection cover - You won't break it unless you're real rough w/it. Take a small flat blade screwdriver and pry out the inspection cover, shine a flashlight to look for any cracks. You'll need to rotate the engine over by hand (ratchet and socket on the crank bolt) so you can see the entirety of the flex plate.

If it's the flex plate (and I'm hoping it's not because I'll look like a complete dumbass; @wjburken will look genius and good on him for calling it), you'll need to yank the trans and replace it. Buy new torque converter and flex plate-to-crank bolts.

If the sound is coming from the transmission itself, the only things I can think of that would cause it are the pump (could be but not likely - when these start whining or making noise, they fail very shortly thereafter the noise first appears) or the pinion gear needle bearings in one or both planetary carrier assemblies (more likely this than the pump but still not high on my list of suspects). If it was converter, you'd likely know it as there'd be unmistakable drivability symptoms (shuddering, loss of power, 'grinding' or 'galling' type noises) then converter failure shortly thereafter.

FWIW, unless the sound in the vid in your earlier post is not representative of what you're actually hearing in person, it sounds identical to the ticking sound my Tahoe makes and like I said earlier, it's been nothing more than a mild annoyance at worst in the past 10 years (that stud in the above pic has been broken since I bought the truck in 2013).
 
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iboughtatahoe23

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The stud/nut clamps the manifold to the cylinder head on the right side of the exhaust port so if there's nothing clamping it down, it will leak exhaust gasses and tick.

Check your other bolts/nuts on the exhaust manifolds and make sure none are loose or fill a spray bottle with soapy water. Spray the solution over the manifolds and look for bubbles. If bubbles appear, you've found the leak(s).

Inspection cover - You won't break it unless you're real rough w/it. Take a small flat blade screwdriver and pry out the inspection cover, shine a flashlight to look for any cracks. You'll need to rotate the engine over by hand (ratchet and socket on the crank bolt) so you can see the entirety of the flex plate.

If it's the flex plate (and I'm hoping it's not because I'll look like a complete dumbass; @wjburken will look genius and good on him for calling it), you'll need to yank the trans and replace it. Buy new torque converter and flex plate-to-crank bolts.

If the sound is coming from the transmission itself, the only things I can think of that would cause it are the pump (could be but not likely - when these start whining or making noise, they fail very shortly thereafter the noise first appears) or the pinion gear needle bearings in one or both planetary carrier assemblies (more likely this than the pump but still not high on my list of suspects). If it was converter, you'd likely know it as there'd be unmistakable drivability symptoms (shuddering, loss of power, 'grinding' or 'galling' type noises) then converter failure shortly thereafter.

FWIW, unless the sound in the vid in your earlier post is not representative of what you're actually hearing in person, it sounds identical to the ticking sound my Tahoe makes and like I said earlier, it's been nothing more than a mild annoyance at worst in the past 10 years (that stud in the above pic has been broken since I bought the truck in 2013).
So you’re saying you have a tick like me?
And I’ll add that I’ve heard many noises, but none are consistent, and they have all come and gone.

I’ve had one really rough shift in first gear and that was when it was really cold out and I just took off from cold start

Any transmission or shifting problems seem to only happen when the transmission is cold and not up to operating temperatures. Which makes me think maybe it’s because all the fluid is sitting at the bottom of the pan when I let it sit overnight and then when I start in the morning, it takes a second to get that fluid all around again?
 
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iboughtatahoe23

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I mean, if it was really that catastrophic her bad, I would have to have some sort of DTC or engine code right?
 

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