That's it - F this turd-burban.

[me88]

Internet research shows that Timken started reboxing China stuff around 2019. Back in the day the box used to say "Made in USA", now it says really small "Made in China".

Just threw out a Chinese-made Timken front wheel hub that was barely half a year old on an older Suburban because it's throwing wheel speed sensor ABS codes. You can't buy the sensor separately from Timken and the GM sensor doesn't fit in the Timken hub, went with ACDelco hubs this time. Price difference between the two was 20$ if I remember correctly.

 

[rmaker]

Minor update #2 - Took a look under the hood for any loose vacuum hoses or anything out of the ordinary and found this. That line with the 90 on it was just dangling and not connected. I reconnected and started to up. Check engine light is still on, I assume I need to erase/clear the codes in order for that to go off?

I looked at the freeze data -
short term fuel trim1 -0.8
Long term fuel trim1 25.8
Short term fuel trim2 2.3
Long term fuel trim 23.4

After reconnect that line, starting it, and turning it off, I looked at the Data (not freeze data)
short term fuel trim1 0.0
Long term fuel trim1 1.6
Short term fuel trim2 0.0
Long term fuel trim2 3.9

So it seems this may have been the culprit. Will clear codes, run and rescan.
There are 3 p0171 errors in the scan tool. each with a different descriptor - Permanent, Pending, Confirmed. I assume these are al;l referencing the same issue?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Be careful not to over grease the slide pins or you could create a hydrolock situation where the caliper cannot compress because there is too much grease and grease cannot be compressed.

Also try to lower your standards of perfection, that is one thing that always kills me with vehicles is my OCD and my need to make the vehicle perfect. It will never be perfect, do your best to enjoy it with it's imperfections.

at 160k a lot of parts are near the end of their life but you replaced ALOT of parts and I wonder which of them actually needed to be replaced or not. other than that most of your parts are brand new now so once you get this thing situated you will be set for a long time.

These things can take a lot of abuse and neglect so a rattle or squeak here or there isn't the end of the world.

 

[swathdiver]

Rear calipers - brakebest Oreilly brand Remanufactured - 18B5031 (RR) / 18B5030 (LR)
front calipers brakebest and a duralast - oreilly/Autozone Remanufactured 18B4919A/18B4918A
Brake hoses - Rear - Dorman H620771 (RR) / Dorman H620768 (LR) / Front Dorman H620779 (RF) / Dorman H620480 (LF)
Pads - Raybestos R Line Ceramic - RAYBESTOS MGD1194CH
Rotors - Raybestos R Line - RAYBESTOS 580279R
Timken hubs - The mechanic installed don't have #
delco inners/outers (I believe - mechanic installed and says he used acdelco)
Hoses/belts napa/Advance -MasterPro Serpentine Belt 6 Rib 94 Inch - K060935 / Gates Micro-V Stretch-Fit Serpentine Belt 4 Rib 36 Inch - K040355SF
Heater Hoses - GM Genuine
Heater hose connectors - Dorman 800-413CD / 800-414CD

Not the top quality stuff - I had ordered and received Raybestos calipers, but they were shit and I returned them and have had pretty good luck with reman calipers in the past.

Well, don't blame the truck for your choice in parts. Brand new GM calipers are $68 and no core charge. Raybestos rotors look same as ACDelco Gold/Professional.

Internet research shows that Timken started reboxing China stuff around 2019. Back in the day the box used to say "Made in USA", now it says really small "Made in China".

Just threw out a Chinese-made Timken front wheel hub that was barely half a year old on an older Suburban because it's throwing wheel speed sensor ABS codes. You can't buy the sensor separately from Timken and the GM sensor doesn't fit in the Timken hub, went with ACDelco hubs this time. Price difference between the two was 20$ if I remember correctly.

Thanks for the heads up, that's too bad. I see that the prices are half of what they used to be too. No thanks!

Minor update #2 - Took a look under the hood for any loose vacuum hoses or anything out of the ordinary and found this.

That will cause a vacuum leak for sure.

 

[B-train]

Completely agree with @Dustin Jackson

I have 177k on my 2008 Denali. Probably needs front end work to some degree, but no major play at the moment. Definitely has creaks and rattles from GM's top quality plastic....

I will do the needed maintenance as it comes up, but don't have any ideals of grandeur for sure. It was a cheap, comfy truck with a 6.2L that didn't see salt, so that's a win for me.

 

[91RS]

This all looks like normal stuff to have needed replacement on a 150k vehicle.

 

[Geotrash]

Minor update #2 - Took a look under the hood for any loose vacuum hoses or anything out of the ordinary and found this. That line with the 90 on it was just dangling and not connected. I reconnected and started to up. Check engine light is still on, I assume I need to erase/clear the codes in order for that to go off?

I looked at the freeze data -
short term fuel trim1 -0.8
Long term fuel trim1 25.8
Short term fuel trim2 2.3
Long term fuel trim 23.4

After reconnect that line, starting it, and turning it off, I looked at the Data (not freeze data)
short term fuel trim1 0.0
Long term fuel trim1 1.6
Short term fuel trim2 0.0
Long term fuel trim2 3.9

So it seems this may have been the culprit. Will clear codes, run and rescan.
There are 3 p0171 errors in the scan tool. each with a different descriptor - Permanent, Pending, Confirmed. I assume these are al;l referencing the same issue?

View attachment 399402

That'll do it!

I have 232K on my '07 that I paid $9500 for in 2018. I replaced all of the same stuff you just did when I bought it and it's been one of the best purchases I've ever made, in hindsight. We have 6500 miles worth of trips planned for it before the end of June. I wouldn't do that with a new one right now.

 

[rmaker]

That'll do it!

I have 232K on my '07 that I paid $9500 for in 2018. I replaced all of the same stuff you just did when I bought it and it's been one of the best purchases I've ever made, in hindsight. We have 6500 miles worth of trips planned for it before the end of June. I wouldn't do that with a new one right now.

I bought an 02 Yukon Denali with 167k miles on it in 2014 for $6500, did all of these same things to it and it's still going with 242k. I think the calipers/leaky bleeder valves just pushed me to the edge, and then when that check engine light came on, that was it, I popped. I have since come back down a bit and will keep pressing forward, I listed it for sale, but not expecting any takers at the price I'm asking. Dont really want to start this process over with another vehicle.

 

[rmaker]

Be careful not to over grease the slide pins or you could create a hydrolock situation where the caliper cannot compress because there is too much grease and grease cannot be compressed.

Also try to lower your standards of perfection, that is one thing that always kills me with vehicles is my OCD and my need to make the vehicle perfect. It will never be perfect, do your best to enjoy it with it's imperfections.

at 160k a lot of parts are near the end of their life but you replaced ALOT of parts and I wonder which of them actually needed to be replaced or not. other than that most of your parts are brand new now so once you get this thing situated you will be set for a long time.

These things can take a lot of abuse and neglect so a rattle or squeak here or there isn't the end of the world.

The OCD is real. I'm not looking for perfection per se, but I like to be confident that things are "ok". Sometimes going down the rabbit holes is detrimental to my OCD tendencies.

 

[swathdiver]

The OCD is real. I'm not looking for perfection per se, but I like to be confident that things are "ok". Sometimes going down the rabbit holes is detrimental to my OCD tendencies.

We know this guy... @iamdub