The Art of Towing

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WillCO

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Use brakes as a 'plugging' method meaning Use them semi-aggressively to drop about 5 mph below your target speed in a shorter distance. Then release the pedal and coast and let the engine and trans continue to hold and slow you down. I always shoot for letting the engine and trans do the majority of work and use the brakes as need.

This allows good heat dissipation/ thermal transfer (that's how brakes work FYI). If they stay always hot, you will get brake fade where they are scorched, can't absorb any more heat, or transfer it, and you'll get the joy of using a runaway ramp.

This is good advice even when you aren't pulling a trailer. I go between Castle Rock, CO and Vail all the time as I live in both spots. There are multiple stretches of long, steep descents on that route including the Eisenhower Tunnel approach and Vail Pass. I am obsessive about engine braking and consider it an achievement that at 95K I am just now needing to change my OEM brakes.
 

MobileHomie

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Pay attention to the weather!
Saw a guy two weeks ago scattered his brand new bumper pull travel trailer all over the interstate. The road was still wet from a passing thunderstorm, I figure the wind got him to swaying and he didn't let off. Just cause the speed limit is 80 mph does not mean it is safe to pull that fast.
 

EvergreenZ71

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When I first got my 26' Toy Hauler I puled it with my 2002 Tahoe (I had previous trailer experiences). It did it, but it wasn't a great match and eventually buying the much older Suburban 2500 as a tow rig (for $3k) made such a huge difference. That said, I did tow it with the Tahoe several times, including US-101 through Oregon and over I-90 Snoqualmie Pass in Washington.

Reading between the lines I am assuming you don't have much trailer experience behind the wheel yet. I'm going to start with my additional suggestions:

First, get out and just tow. Tow both trailers around your neighborhood and around an empty parking lot to get the feel for it.
- Practice hooking up (so much easier now that pretty much everything has a rear camera),
- See how the trailer follows around corners (i.e. how bad it cuts the corner),
- Practice backing up with the trailer,
- Be patient on the acceleration (not saying intentionally slow it, just that it won't do what you're used to and that's OK), and
- Practice backing into parking spots (i.e. campsites) before going out.
Nothing highlights the skill of a proficient trailer hauler (or rookie) as does backing. The worst hit to your ego at a campground without any damages even occurring is having someone else come over to offer to back it in for you (seen it happen, never had it happen fortunately).

Second, if the trailer has electrically controlled brakes, your brake controller needs to be set to control them properly. Properly set trailer brakes should slow & stop the trailer for you while the truck brakes stops the weight of the truck ... maintaining in-line control and stopping where you want it to stop. Even is technically best, but it's if not even it would be better for the trailer to pull on the truck a little slowing the truck than it would be for the trailer to be pushing the truck to make the truck stop the trailer (hopefully) or jackknifing it. And you'll need to learn how to use / activate the trailer brake manually from the controller as well.

Third, in addition to the weights identified (truck, trailer, and combined weight) also weigh the trailer tongue weight (especially on the travel trailer). All of these should be the loaded & packed weights. This was one of the biggest factors on my Tahoe not being a great match for my Toy Hauler; it ended up bending an axel!

And finally, my x2 (or 3+) to a lot of the suggestions already mentioned:
- Weight distribution w/ sway control
- Transmission fluid & oil changed regularly on severe service schedule
- Transmission mod (& keep the DIC on the transmission temp on hills)
- Tow/Haul mode is your friend, at least for a while
- Brake management: heavy on to drop speed below desired, then off to let them cool
- Consider benefits and risks of the use of M-mode to downshift as needed to protect the brakes
- Speed limits are for cars, instead consider your control limit ... slow down for curves and in windy conditions

Oh, and play East Bound and Down (Smokey & The Bandit) on the first real trip, but don't actually worry about the "short time to get there".
 

Douglas Friedberg

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First thing you do is take a the vehicle and have the front end aligned and all the steering components checked and tell them your going to be towing a lot. The chamber and caster and toe in can be optimized for towing heavy loads. The more weight you put on the hitch the more the front end will rise and alter these settings. Rule # 1. Rule #2 check all the bolts on the hitch and make sure there grade 8 bolts and not all rusted hardware. The safety chain that will apply your e brake encase of trailer brake away happens should never be attached to the hitch somewhere to the body because if hitch ever breaks off there goes your E brake to and will never get applied.
Everyone else has good advice for you. You yet have no idea but even at 40 mph that load can go crazy when done wrong and spin you around 360 degrees and just pray
 

Douglas Friedberg

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First thing you do is take a the vehicle and have the front end aligned and all the steering components checked and tell them your going to be towing a lot. The chamber and caster and toe in can be optimized for towing heavy loads. The more weight you put on the hitch the more the front end will rise and alter these settings. Rule # 1. Rule #2 check all the bolts on the hitch and make sure there grade 8 bolts and not all rusted hardware. The safety chain that will apply your e brake encase of trailer brake away happens should never be attached to the hitch somewhere to the body because if hitch ever breaks off there goes your E brake to and will never get applied.
Everyone else has good advice for you. You yet have no idea but even at 40 mph that load can go crazy when done wrong and spin you around 360 degrees and just pray
Ps. Make sure you check all the lug nuts on every wheel encluding what your towing.
 

Douglas Friedberg

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Ps. Make sure you check all the lug nuts on every wheel encluding what your towing.
Remember the force Luke. Your driving skills will alert you when something is wrong heed them with professionalism untill you get a lot of miles under your belt it’s your friend. Pull over check your load chains or straps. If you use chain binders that hole or slot on the end of the Handel of the binder is for running a rope thru it and rapping up the handle so it won’t pop open. Don’t be cheap on buying good straps either. Think of them as your life is on the line because it is.
I tow my race car all the time.
 

Douglas Friedberg

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Remember the force Luke. Your driving skills will alert you when something is wrong heed them with professionalism untill you get a lot of miles under your belt it’s your friend. Pull over check your load chains or straps. If you use chain binders that hole or slot on the end of the Handel of the binder is for running a rope thru it and rapping up the handle so it won’t pop open. Don’t be cheap on buying good straps either. Think of them as your life is on the line because it is.
I tow my race car all the time.
Buy a tongue weight scale and know you tongue weight there cheap compared to your life. And it’s not a waste as it can be used for so many other uses.
 

Douglas Friedberg

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Towing is a skill not a art. Art can be erased and done over you won’t have a second chance. It’s that important.
 

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