The KidWagon

[KidWgn]

Almost done gutting the Subaru in the garage...and then I can finally get the Tayhoe in the garage and so some much needed work. 24's need to get powder coated, new tires on them, and then I'm coming down another inch in the front and rear, once I get the RF wheel jut figured out.

EDIT: OH! And I can install the thermostatic transmission outlet, and a smaller Derale trans cooler. The 40k--not looped through the radiator--is leaving me no hotter than 156° after really hammering on it on the highway, quickly dropping back into the 140's. I'd like to see consistent temps in the 170°s, and "high" temps closer to 200°

EDIT2: Thanks to @gooffeyguy for turning me on to Derale's coolers

 

[89Suburban]

Almost done gutting the Subaru in the garage...and then I can finally get the Tayhoe in the garage and so some much needed work. 24's need to get powder coated, new tires on them, and then I'm coming down another inch in the front and rear, once I get the RF wheel jut figured out.

EDIT: OH! And I can install the thermostatic transmission outlet, and a smaller Derale trans cooler. The 40k--not looped through the radiator--is leaving me no hotter than 156° after really hammering on it on the highway, quickly dropping back into the 140's. I'd like to see consistent temps in the 170°s, and "high" temps closer to 200°

EDIT2: Thanks to @gooffeyguy for turning me on to Derale's coolers

So you at 5" rear drop and not bottoming out at all? I did the free travel mod and mine still does.

 

[KidWgn]

So you at 5" rear drop and not bottoming out at all? I did the free travel mod and mine still does.

Oh it does

My fender to hubs are currently:
FL: 17.5
FR: 17.5
RL: 17.5
RR:17.625

1/4 tank of fuel

 

[89Suburban]

Oh it does

My fender to hubs are currently:
FL: 17.5
FR: 17.5
RL: 17.5
RR:17.625

1/4 tank of fuel

Cool glad I am not alone. A few have suggested here that it is the short WB rear drivetrain bottoming out into the transmission housing.

 

[KidWgn]

Cool glad I am not alone. A few have suggested here that it is the short WB rear drivetrain bottoming out into the transmission housing.

I'm not following what you're saying, but I'm also short on sleep and attention span lately.

Do you mean the rear axle tube bottoming out? Mine is the frame hitting the axle pad lol

Also, what's your hub-center to fender measure at?

 

[89Suburban]

I'm not following what you're saying, but I'm also short on sleep and attention span lately.

Do you mean the rear axle tube bottoming out? Mine is the frame hitting the axle pad lol

Also, what's your hub-center to fender measure at?

Some here were worried that my actual rear driveline was bottoming out via full collapse of the rear driveshaft slip joint into the rear of the transmission/transfer case. Because it is a 4WD SWB vehicle with a 5" rear drop. My gut tells me that is not what is happening.

These are my suspects in this investigation:

It's either the coil springs or drop shocks hitting full compression.

But more likely IMHO I believe it is the lower bump stop steel axle pads hitting the frame as you have mentioned. I have an inkling to enact a "Full Travel Mod - 2.0" on those things and cut them the hell off or modify them to see where that leaves me. If it's up sh*ts creek so be it. fkit.

But I appreciate your input. I will get a do the measurement you asked about and report back when I can.

 

[89Suburban]

I'm not following what you're saying, but I'm also short on sleep and attention span lately.

Do you mean the rear axle tube bottoming out? Mine is the frame hitting the axle pad lol

Also, what's your hub-center to fender measure at?

Well you certainly called that one. I didn't get the fender measurement yet I keep forgetting. Both axle pads are hitting the frame for sure. This is the driver's side. When I did the free travel mod I left about a 1/4" to 1/2" of flange hanging and that's what it is hitting.

I cut the rest off yesterday and see how it does this week. I already hit the one bump I know always bottoms out on the way to work this morning and it didn't do it so I am hoping I got this under control now. If it still does it I may notch those pads. I don't want to remove them because it looks like its part of the structural bracket for the lower control arm mount.

 

[KidWgn]

Well you certainly called that one. I didn't get the fender measurement yet I keep forgetting. Both axle pads are hitting the frame for sure. This is the driver's side. When I did the free travel mod I left about a 1/4" to 1/2" of flange hanging and that's what it is hitting.

I cut the rest off yesterday and see how it does this week. I already hit the one bump I know always bottoms out on the way to work this morning and it didn't do it so I am hoping I got this under control now. If it still does it I may notch those pads. I don't want to remove them because it looks like its part of the structural bracket for the lower control arm mount.



View attachment 434494View attachment 434495View attachment 434496

Do you have the rear end centered fore-to-aft? I used Spohn adjustable upper and lower control arms to do so.

 

[89Suburban]

Do you have the rear end centered fore-to-aft? I used Spohn adjustable upper and lower control arms to do so.

No but it really doesn't stand out looking at it that it is off center. I have the factory control arms and track bar.

 

[KidWgn]

No but it really doesn't stand out looking at it that it is off center. I have the factory control arms and track bar.

Holy crap. You’re dropped 5 rear with the stock track bar?!