There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[iamdub]

Is this one of those engines with the funky spark plugs that get stuck and falls apart? (Or whatever it is that requires the special removal tools)

Missing under load could be from a weak spark. Weak spark could be from a failed/failing plug.

 

[Fless]

Ok, in the pictures below I am showing you where I was after the lower trim removal and the upper cluster surround trim cover are removed. The problem, as I stated above, is that even with the park brake off, the park brake light on the dash would stay lit all the time. The harness connector in the pic is where the problem is. I did not unplug it but I just flexed it forward and back and left and right. The sweet spot is pushing it back, toward the engine, and toward the driver's side and the light went out and stayed out. If I flexed it the opposite way, I can turn the light back on.

I also road tested the truck this morning and was able to load/accel the engine and make it misfire any time I wanted and for as long as I wanted. It does feel like a torque converter locking and unlocking but I still believe it is a misfire for two reasons: I heard a small backfire this morning and I can accel hard when in Park or Neutral and feel the misfire but not as bad because I am not pulling the truck weight, like when driving.

See pics, all taken with engine running:

View attachment 406493View attachment 406494View attachment 406495

Seeing as how that connector base appears to be connected to a circuit board, you might see if there are any cracked solder joints on the pins that attach to the circuit board. If you can get at it with the cluster pulled.

 

[Fless]

Is this one of those engines with the funky spark plugs that get stuck and falls apart? (Or whatever it is that requires the special removal tools)

Missing under load could be from a weak spark. Weak spark could be from a failed/failing plug.

High probability. If pulling plugs you'll need the Lisle or OTC tool handy and be ready to pull a head if those steps fail.

 

[OR VietVet]

Is this one of those engines with the funky spark plugs that get stuck and falls apart? (Or whatever it is that requires the special removal tools)

Missing under load could be from a weak spark. Weak spark could be from a failed/failing plug.

Seeing as how that connector base appears to be connected to a circuit board, you might see if there are any cracked solder joints on the pins that attach to the circuit board. If you can get at it with the cluster pulled.

High probability. If pulling plugs you'll need the Lisle or OTC tool handy and be ready to pull a head if those steps fail.

@iamdub & @Fless , It is one of those engines that is involved with the spark plug problems but fortunately the dealer did replace the plugs at 101695 miles and it now has 136698 miles on it. If I do end up doing the ignition coils, about 95% sure I am, I hope that when I pull them up and unplug the coils, the plugs stay in the hole and I will look do in there to see if I see anything obvious. I do not have the special tools required for that problem and don't want to be involved.

@Fless, At this point, all he wants to do is know what to do to keep the light out and it will set and turn on and off when the park brake is set and released. He is still not 100% sure he is keeping and I showed him this set up this morning when I had the covers off. For now it is staying out and if need to go back in again, to get to where it is in the pics, is no more than 10 minutes.

 

[Fless]

Clusterf...ix if you ever do one.

Simple Fix for 2004 through 2008 F-150 Brake Light

Soldering iron and a screwdriver can help finally turn off your the brake light in your 2004 through 2008 Ford F-150 pickup.

www.ford-trucks.com

I'd probably touch up the solder connections where the connector base meets the circuit board. Looks like those also use twist-in bulbs and it might be wise to change them out while it's apart.

 

[OR VietVet]

@Fless, I did watch a video about the spark plug problems and see how it can turn into a nightmare. It looks like Lisle makes the best design removal tool #65600. The video poster said that the best way to prep and hopefully keep the plugs from breaking. is to run a can of Seafoam in a 1/4 gallon tank of fuel for about 1/8th tank and then work on a warm, not hot, engine to allow the aluminum to expand slightly around the plug. The Seafoam breaks down the carbon that builds up on the bottom of the plug and causes the old design plugs to break. The new design Motorcraft spark plug is part #SP515. I read the truck owner's dealer paperwork about when the plugs were replaced. The tech had to remove two broken plugs and he used the new design plugs when he put the new ones in.

 

[OR VietVet]

Ok, OK, Ok....I caved and the Karaoke girl that made the lame no show excuse about having food poisoning and begging off the appointment I made for her to look at her brakes.......turns out she is like me, she does not drink. I have her on the way for a brake inspection this morning. I know her boss, that I know personally, is likely doing white powder but that does not mean the BRAKES girl is doing the same. She was recommended by a close friend of mine from the AL Post, but he is kind of a "Horn Dog" so I don't know what is going on there. I told her, "cash up front" and if do work, some of that inspection fee cash is put toward the brakes labor work, if I do it. We shall see. She calls herself, Little Bear. Maybe something in a weird diet gave her food poisoning, hell I don't know.


Headed to my friend's shop this afternoon, with the F150, to attach to his Snap On scanner and hope to get some definitive info about the misfire.

 

[OR VietVet]

No brakes needed on 09 Charger. Can hear a slight rub noise up front and if slow from a fast speed hard enough, can feel a very minor pulsation. Had a surface rust built up at the rotor outer edges that was causing the noise. I filed them slightly and road test before leaving, had no noise. The pads still had about 30% left and were completely even all the way around, inner and outer pads. Rear pads slightly thinner. I would say at 103k miles the front pads had likely been done before, since they were a little thicker than the rear pads. Front and rear pads were approximately 3/16" away from rotors to squealers. Park brake worked fine. Did remind her of plugs and ignition coils needed, instead of brakes, for now. Collected my fee and sent her on the way. Saved her over $1200 from the local rip off tire shop.

 

[OR VietVet]

I drove the F150 to my friend's shop in J.C. and during that drive I experienced many severe misfires and actually got it to throw a CEL one time. Found numerous misfire counts on cylinder #3 and the code was a P0303. Also had misfire counts on #7 and #5 but very random and low. He then told me something that I had never heard before. The #3 and #7 cylinders/ign. coils are directly under the cowling water trough at back of hood. Water gathers there and will drip down and directly below that are the ignition coils for #3 and #7 cylinders. When looked at the coils, there was signs of dried up water/dirt mixture that gathered all around those coils. I was gonna replace the coils anyway, so ordered them today from RA. The new design plugs had been changed 30k miles ago but will look at plugs at #3 and #7.

Gonna try and sell the 65 Mustang on Wednesday.

 

[OR VietVet]

FJ getting dropped off in the morning.

I ordered parts and fluids for the F150 and all supposed to be here no later than Tuesday from RA. Then I got a big job ahead of me.