There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

[OR VietVet]

 

[OR VietVet]

 

[OR VietVet]

On the same Tahoe, it has hydro-boost brakes and when on a rough enough road or over bumps, there is a rattle noise under the dash on d/s and sounds close to the firewall. I checked and is not the lower collar bearing on the steering column and not the attaching shaft at bottom of column. Did find a lot of play at the upper brake pedal pivot. Has a large horizontal bolt with a threaded nut. Cannot seem to see or feel the other side of it to see if the bolt head is there. I was tired and did not spend a bunch of time digging. Also has P/S fluid seepage at back of hydro-boost at the firewall. See pics of seepage and threaded bolt. Bolt is at top of the pic. Anyone ran in to this before and know anything about tightening the bolt? Is there a bolt head or is it captured? Thanks in advance.

 

[OR VietVet]

Then I had a customer from previous work, call me out of the blue and asked if I could install his new battery. He said other shops were putting him off for at least a week. It is a 2015 Ford Escape SLE AWD with the 1.6 turbo. I found a coolant leak that 3 other shops could not find, about 1.5 years ago. Done a couple oil changes and Reinstalled a rubbed off fuel tank cover for him as well.

Took 30 minutes to install battery. Remove wiper arms, remove upper and lower cowlings and dig out of the box it is in, in front of driver close to the firewall. Then I reset his oil change reminder light and asked why? He said he had the oil changed and realized that he slipped up. I saw a new sticker and he did not call me for the oil change and the shop did not do the reminder light reset.

I told him $40 for the battery install and he paid me $50 instead and begged forgiveness for not calling me about the oil change.

 

[OR VietVet]

So now, more work in my future on this 2005 Tahoe that I did the door hinge pins on. I found a video that explains EXACTLY the rattle under the dash problem and shows what to do to fix. For info purposes, I have already ordered the bushing, gonna do the brake light switch while is off for bushing access and in my case, I am going to remove the driver's seat for way better access for me. At 6'4" and 280 pounds, I need some room. In the video, that I am supplying the link for, it is also a hydro-boost brake system with the exact same p/s fluid leakage/seepage that I saw on her Tahoe. The video is a Suburban.

 

[homesick]

It was a standard "pep talk" interview and there will be another after they send me a questionnaire to fill out and send back. The questions were mainly, "Tell me 3 things about yourself, that other people do not know". How did I get started in the business? Tell me something good your friends would say about you and something bad they would say about you. What is the salary I would be willing to start at? Able to work 5 days a week and when can I start.

What do I know about the shop? What have I heard about the shop?

All this took place over a 15 minute period. I was not impressed, really. I am wanting to write service at a light truck/auto repair shop, not talk about my feelings and desires.

It was an independent company out of Colorado doing this.

LOL, at least they know what's important for the job. You could probably get a raise if you tell them that you already know that "homeless" is being superseded by "unhoused".

joe

 

[OR VietVet]

Once the seat is out, looks like I can lay completely flat and have plenty of room.

 

[OR VietVet]

Sorry, no pics, of the 2017 Explorer front brake work. Old pads as thick and clean as the new ones so did not replace them. Replaced both rotors for the warpage problem. #40 torx holds the rotor to hub. Caliper slides pins held in place with 17mm and the caliper bracket bolted on with 18mm bolts. Removed it all, cleaned and lubed thoroughly and Brake Cleaned the new rotor surface and reassembled. Took it on a road test and verified no pulsation at any speed, including highway exit ramp speed. Seated the old pads to the new rotors and the owner was happy. Total time, 1.5 hours.

Tomorrow, replacing both headlamp assemblies on an American Legion friend of mine, wife's 2017 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premier. Assemblies arrived this morning and will do work starting at 11 tomorrow.

Rest of part should be here by Tuesday to do the brake pedal assembly bushing and stop light switch on the 2005 Tahoe LS.

 

[OR VietVet]

If I had an air compressor, I would not even be asking. My neighbor knows a guy that bought his "mid-life crisis" car. The white 1986 IROC Z28 Camaro is straight and nice looking but someone has lowered it in the front, or at least he thinks so and he bought a 12 piece kit for center link, inner and outer tie rods and sleeves and idler arm with bracket and lower ball joints. It has struts instead of upper control arms. It is a 5.0 MFI engine. I told him to get a free front end inspection because I was not going to inspect for free. Ask to go in the alignment rack area and be shown what is wrong and take pics if can. I told him if the springs are original, they may just be sagged. I am curious about the lower control arm bushings. I can remove the lower arms, no problem. Ball joints, no problem. Replace coil springs, no problem. Control arm bushings....problem. I used to just air hammer them out but I have no compressor. I have heated and melted the rubber out before and removed the bolt sleeves. The outer metal housing is the problem. Best ways to remove. I do not have a sawzall to cut them and fold them in on themselves. So....I ask....any recommendations? I guess I could take to a shop and wait for however long for them to do them but I would prefer to do them myself, if it is feasible. Thanks for any help.