Thinking of Buying a 00-06 NBS Tahoe/Suburban? Look Here

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bayareadude84

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Window regulators and motors go out on these i have read

My rear driver just did on my '01 'burb,Luckily it wasn't that bad $$$ on my wallet
$70 total price for new regulator/motor and labor :)


Dave

---------- Post added at 02:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:21 AM ----------

Have had 4 '99-01 NBS trucks past several years and most common issues I have experienced were

A/C system
ABS light
Serpentine belt
Driveshaft
belt tensioner
 

flounder

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Do not buy a tahoe or yukon with castech heads, the castech heads are a timebomb and not a cheap fix. Do yourself a favor and google castech cylinder heads to educate yourself on the topic.

Does anyone know what years GM used the castech heads? I am looking at buying a 2005-2008 Tahoe/Yukon
 
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flounder

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Seams to be 04-06 M.Y's in general

Looked up carcomplaint.com and 2004 seems to be the worst year for it

Dave

Thanks Dave. I am going to check out 2 Tahoes this week and both are 2006.

I will be extra careful when I look at the engines.
 

RAWVORTEC

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Looking at a 2003 yukon xl. leather,sunroof, 4x4, towing package. It has 222k miles and the transmission was replaced 80k miles ago. What should I be looking for? Both my parents own the NBS and the only things that my mom had to do was replace tranny at 230k miles.
 

treehan77

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my best tip is to make sure all the gauges are actually reading properly. not a big deal if they aren't but it is common for them to work erratically, and i wouldn't want to think, say, coolant temperature is fine when it isn't. rebuild is 150 bucks or less, but most of the readings you could double check with an ELM327 reader and DashCommand or Torque app. This reader will also help you out with any Check Engine Lights etc, and can provide cool stuff such as transmission temperature if you plan on towing etc. well worth the $35 i paid for the unit and app combined.

Def check the 4WD operation, and AutoRide condition if it has that (expensive to fix). otherwise check all fluids and make sure they don't seem burnt or anything. with that amount of miles, water pump, fuel pump and suspension (idler, pitman, tie rods etc.) are always a concern, but not a deal breaker. these engines themselves seem to last forever if they are well cared for.
 

RAWVORTEC

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It seems to be really well taken care of. He's the 2nd owner and knows alot and hes a big GM guy so i feel like he took care of it. The whole thing looks clean. The drivers side seat is stressed with a minor tear. but I figured that'd be a cheap cover to buy(leather not a mossy oak LOL). When looking at the tie rods/pitman/idler what am i looking for?
 

clandr1

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It seems to be really well taken care of. He's the 2nd owner and knows alot and hes a big GM guy so i feel like he took care of it. The whole thing looks clean. The drivers side seat is stressed with a minor tear. but I figured that'd be a cheap cover to buy(leather not a mossy oak LOL). When looking at the tie rods/pitman/idler what am i looking for?

You'll need to put it up on a jack, try to lock the steering wheel in place somehow (have a friend hold it), and shake the wheels back and forth while looking for play at the tie rod ends, and at the pitman and idler arms where they attach to the center link.
 

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