Ticking noise. Lifters?

[rn4l21]

Definitely seems suspicious.

Have you checked your oil level? When was your last oil change filter change? Might want to get a analog gauge on there and see what the actual pressure is.

Yeah. Oil level is good and clean. I had an oil change about 300 or so miles ago. I’ll have to try out an analog gauge.

 

[wjburken]

Yeah. Oil level is good and clean. I had an oil change about 300 or so miles ago. I’ll have to try out an analog gauge.

My guess is the sensor is wonky, but always good to make sure. Did this whole noise thing start after the oil change?

What type of oil and filter was used? Did you do it or have it done?

Not saying it’s the cause of your ticking sound, but one of the first things I do when trouble shooting is asking “What’s different now?” and an oil change 300 miles ago is one data point that’s changed. I don’t want to shift all focus to this as it may be completely unrelated, but it may not be.

I would still take the serpentine belt off and run the truck to see if you still have the sound.

 

[rn4l21]

My guess is the sensor is wonky, but always good to make sure. Did this whole noise thing start after the oil change?

What type of oil and filter was used? Did you do it or have it done?

Not saying it’s the cause of your ticking sound, but one of the first things I do when trouble shooting is asking “What’s different now?” and an oil change 300 miles ago is one data point that’s changed. I don’t want to shift all focus to this as it may be completely unrelated, but it may not be.

I would still take the serpentine belt off and run the truck to see if you still have the sound.

I did it myself and just did the standard 5W-30 Valvoline with an AC Delco filter. I just noticed it about a week or so ago. It doesn’t really happen on a cold start which I find weird but if I turn it off and turn it right back on, it starts ticking again.

 

[Fless]

Yeah. Oil level is good and clean. I had an oil change about 300 or so miles ago. I’ll have to try out an analog gauge.

What does the oil pressure gauge read with the key to 'run' and engine off (KOEO)?

You might also see what the oil pressure PID reads with a scanner, KOEO, and with the truck running.

 

[rn4l21]

What does the oil pressure gauge read with the key to 'run' and engine off (KOEO)?

You might also see what the oil pressure PID reads with a scanner, KOEO, and with the truck running.

It reads 0 when it’s in the run position. I’ll have to try a scanner tomorrow.

 

[MassHoe04]

Check the connector on the oil pressure sensor.
According item #2 to the post below, a gauge pegged to the max. could be result of a disconnected sensor.
Could also be a broken wire or bad connector...

Start there, with an inspection at the connector and wires to it.





This was posted on ChevyForum.com. Maybe it will help you figure things out on whether it is your gauge or the sensor...

(1) Check the oil level and correct as necessary. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine.

(2) Disconnect the sensor lead at the sensor. The gauge should read full scale.

(3) Ground the connector. The gauge should read at the bottom of the scale.

(4) If the gauge functions properly, replace the sensor.

 

[rockola1971]

I was hoping it wasn’t that smh. It’s only got about 185K on it. Runs and idles so smooth. No CEL, no bad idle. I guess it’s time to let her go.

Not the end of the world unless its caused by low oil pressure. Not at all uncommon at all for the LS engines to get a little lifter tick with your mileage. Sometimes its nothing real serious at all and ends up just being a sticky lifter which can be be fixed by a quart of tranny fluid ran through the engine immediately before an oil change in the driveway. The tranny fluid frees sticky lifters. DO NOT DRIVE WITH TRANNY FLUID IN YOUR OIL.

 

[05YukonXL]

Any resolutions? I just got my 2014 Suburban back from body shop and got a 'Check Engine' light. Mechanic read error as misfire, at low RPMs on Cylinder 4. Ruled out plugs and coils. Did oil/filter change. But no time to diagnose further, I towed a trailer 200 miles (75MPH average) and a clicking noise revealed itself upon arrival. And noticed the check engine light went away. The clicking, initially sounded like bearing on alternator but... then thought maybe lifter issues on the #4? The next day, (no trailer) the clicking stuck around (did 30 miles). Third day no clicking, check engine light back. Now to further diagnose...

 

[rockola1971]

Any resolutions? I just got my 2014 Suburban back from body shop and got a 'Check Engine' light. Mechanic read error as misfire, at low RPMs on Cylinder 4. Ruled out plugs and coils. Did oil/filter change. But no time to diagnose further, I towed a trailer 200 miles (75MPH average) and a clicking noise revealed itself upon arrival. And noticed the check engine light went away. The clicking, initially sounded like bearing on alternator but... then thought maybe lifter issues on the #4? The next day, (no trailer) the clicking stuck around (did 30 miles). Third day no clicking, check engine light back. Now to further diagnose.

At NIGHT open hood, start engine, look for flashing show around coils or spark plugs and you have located your bad spark plug wire or coil. The clicking you hear might be the spark jumping to the nearest metal which is ground which would also cause a misfire. Dont even think about sticking your fingers down in there while the engine is running or you might become ground and get the bejesus knocked out of you.

 

[rn4l21]

Any resolutions? I just got my 2014 Suburban back from body shop and got a 'Check Engine' light. Mechanic read error as misfire, at low RPMs on Cylinder 4. Ruled out plugs and coils. Did oil/filter change. But no time to diagnose further, I towed a trailer 200 miles (75MPH average) and a clicking noise revealed itself upon arrival. And noticed the check engine light went away. The clicking, initially sounded like bearing on alternator but... then thought maybe lifter issues on the #4? The next day, (no trailer) the clicking stuck around (did 30 miles). Third day no clicking, check engine light back. Now to further diagnose...

Yes. It ended up being an exhaust manifold leak. The bolts were broken. Never even crossed my mind to check