Time For New Speakers!

[Sir-Lancelot]

Based on your goals and waiting on the subs until later, I would say a nice 8" midbass in the front doors with a ring tweeter in the a pillar or even a nice fullrange on axis in the a pillar.

You would need to run active, but it would be worth it once that midbass shakes your side mirrors.

 

[01HDtahoeNJN]

I'm looki.g to add 2 12's and a new 8 for the factory spot in addition to the speakers so wouldn't I need more channels? Spending money up front sounds goods to me!

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk

 

[abladeafficionado]

Don't replace the factory sub, just add 12s later.

I'm making this list based on the assumption that you're running an aftermarket head unit with a built in (very small) amp. For $1150 I built a system sans head unit and install gear.

Amp, 100W RMS @ 4Ω bridged on, $150
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21951_Kicker-ZX650.4-10ZX650.4.html

Front Comps, $190, bridge amp for these, they're only rated to 85W RMS, but they'll take 100W no problem
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19750_Boston-Acoustics-SR60.html

Rear Coaxs, $65, run off of head unit power so about 15-20W RMS, rear speaker are just for fill, don't spend a bunch of money on rears
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5022_Boston-Acoustics-S65.html

Sub Amp, $350, 1000W RMS @ 2Ω
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21957_Kicker-ZX1000.1-10ZX1000.1.html

Sub, $400, IDMAXs will get loud but are extremely clean sounding
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20482_Image-Dynamics-IDMAX12-V.3-D4.html

That leaves you at $1150. I built this with SQL in mind, loud but still clean, it will get plenty loud but sound clean while doing it. Build a 2.5 ft^3 box ported at 30Hz for the sub, and then spend some money and do a Big 3 upgrade, and use the rest of the budget on wiring. You should come out somewhere around $1300 for all of that if you do the install and box build yourself. I only put ONE twelve in the build, 1000W on a good 12 (like the IDMAX I suggested) will be superior to two cheap 12s on 500W a piece. To increase your SPL 3db, you must double your wattage, or double your cone area. So mathematically, 1 12" on 1000W will be nearly as loud as 2 12", and sound much better while doing it.

I wouldn't recommend Infinity speakers if somebody recommends them, the titanium tweets are harsh. Focals are nice but you have to hear them before you buy them, they have bright sounding tweeters that many people don't like.

 

[HAYN_HO]

Don't replace the factory sub, just add 12s later.

I'm making this list based on the assumption that you're running an aftermarket head unit with a built in (very small) amp. For $1150 I built a system sans head unit and install gear.

Amp, 100W RMS @ 4Ω bridged on, $150
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21951_Kicker-ZX650.4-10ZX650.4.html

Front Comps, $190, bridge amp for these, they're only rated to 85W RMS, but they'll take 100W no problem
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19750_Boston-Acoustics-SR60.html

Rear Coaxs, $65, run off of head unit power so about 15-20W RMS, rear speaker are just for fill, don't spend a bunch of money on rears
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5022_Boston-Acoustics-S65.html

Sub Amp, $350, 1000W RMS @ 2Ω
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21957_Kicker-ZX1000.1-10ZX1000.1.html

Sub, $400, IDMAXs will get loud but are extremely clean sounding
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20482_Image-Dynamics-IDMAX12-V.3-D4.html

That leaves you at $1150. I built this with SQL in mind, loud but still clean, it will get plenty loud but sound clean while doing it. Build a 2.5 ft^3 box ported at 30Hz for the sub, and then spend some money and do a Big 3 upgrade, and use the rest of the budget on wiring. You should come out somewhere around $1300 for all of that if you do the install and box build yourself. I only put ONE twelve in the build, 1000W on a good 12 (like the IDMAX I suggested) will be superior to two cheap 12s on 500W a piece. To increase your SPL 3db, you must double your wattage, or double your cone area. So mathematically, 1 12" on 1000W will be nearly as loud as 2 12", and sound much better while doing it.

I wouldn't recommend Infinity speakers if somebody recommends them, the titanium tweets are harsh. Focals are nice but you have to hear them before you buy them, they have bright sounding tweeters that many people don't like.

i had both those amps and they're sweet you wont be dissapointed i heard the speakers in a friends car with a 4ch amp and they do sound good..however i dont know what the sub sounds like but i can only imagine it sounds good .. from the specs sounds like it pushes has a pretty good review also

---------- Post added at 06:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:48 AM ----------

btw spend the money on wires..dont be a cheapo i used the kicker 0/1 gauge wire and they are flexible as hell (well at that thick you think about this when it comes time to hide your wires, etc.) when i was installing car audio they used tsunami wire and there was a big difference in sound quality esp. when you add the RCA's

 

[01HDtahoeNJN]

i had both those amps and they're sweet you wont be dissapointed i heard the speakers in a friends car with a 4ch amp and they do sound good..however i dont know what the sub sounds like but i can only imagine it sounds good .. from the specs sounds like it pushes has a pretty good review also

---------- Post added at 06:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:48 AM ----------

btw spend the money on wires..dont be a cheapo i used the kicker 0/1 gauge wire and they are flexible as hell (well at that thick you think about this when it comes time to hide your wires, etc.) when i was installing car audio they used tsunami wire and there was a big difference in sound quality esp. when you add the RCA's

Im planning on fiberglassing my own sub box which oughtta be cool...and what are Rcas?... What's the better wire these days?

 

[abladeafficionado]

Im planning on fiberglassing my own sub box which oughtta be cool...and what are Rcas?... What's the better wire these days?

RCAs are your white/red wires that run from the head unit to the amp(s).

Definitely spend money on good wire, you don't have to use the kicker stuff though. If you can get ahold of 1/0 welding cable it works well too, the strands for welding cable are much thinner so they're flexible probably a lot cheaper than the Kicker wire. I get all of my wire from work on giant spools, so I don't know the cost of it for consumers.

Be careful fiberglassing a box. You have to do it well or it'll flex like no other. Building a simple ported box out of wood, then glassing over top wouldn't be a bad idea. Then you're guaranteed the correct box dimensions, and can still have a nice looking fiberglassed box.

If you're looking for more help just ask.

Here is a box plan, 2.5ft^3 @ 32Hz before displacement.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/29/25cubes32hz3125sqin0zp.png/

 

[01HDtahoeNJN]

That's what I ment I'm going to just glass one part

 

[blueflamed03]

but IF you do use the Kicker wire you can add another year on warranty on the equipment.

 

[HAYN_HO]

but IF you do use the Kicker wire you can add another year on warranty on the equipment.

correcto mundo!!

 

[01HDtahoeNJN]

Kicker wire 0 gauge is like 200-400$$$ coollllll