Time for tires. What is needed to clear a 285/75

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96GMCYukonGT

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I ran 285/75/r16s on stock height and stocks with no rubbing no issues and now running with 315/75/r16s with just a torsion bar crank
 

WalterMitty

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I found out the hard way on my 1996 Yukon that there's one more important set of components that have to be checked.

I'm running 285/75R16's on a stock SLE. At some point in the past, the right front bump stop, or jounce bumper, was damaged. Someone (perhaps a body shop mechanic repairing a fender bender on the right front) realized the truck wasn't sitting right and jacked up the right T-bar to compensate.

So, under virtually all normal conditions (and even in some extra-normal conditions) I didn't have any rubbing issues. But when I got in some really severe conditions, the lack of a proper bump stop allowed my tire to hit the fender opening; even though the T-bar was holding the truck up higher under all other situations.

One of the things I learned is that the bumpers are an integral part of how the front suspension works. Check yours to make sure they are in good shape to have an extra margin of confidence your rubbing will be minimal and minor when you're on two wheels making a hard turn up a 30 degree incline. :burnout:
 
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skyhighsami

skyhighsami

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Ok, so no Pro Comp shocks but what should I get? My lifted Samurai ran Monroe shocks but it was so light marshmallows would have done a great job. The Jeep Wrangler and 05 2500 Duramax I lifted worked great with Pro Comp shocks. The Jeep had the cheap Pro Comps and the Duramax had the dual hoop aluminum bodied remote reservoir shocks. Everything else I've had recently has been lower or bagged. The reason I was considering keys is because when I turned up the torsion bars on my 2003 Chevrolet 1500HD I lost all rebound of my shocks. So I put it back stock. Was it the keys and too much tension on the torsion bars or had I maxed out stroke of the shocks? If so what's the best shock I can buy and would I benefit from a dual shock hoop? Sorry if I've asked alot of questions but as you can see I've had a lot of experience with lots of trucks but none with this body style Tahoe. I did have one of these trucks before but it was lowered. I have read and haven't gotten a solid answer on what shock is best on a torsion bar cranked Tahoe.
 

WalterMitty

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<snip>

I have read and haven't gotten a solid answer on what shock is best on a torsion bar cranked Tahoe.

Well, I think the stock spec shocks are effective throughout the normal operating range of the suspension. Cranking keys is an adjustment that doesn't change that range; you only change (adjust) the point in the range that the suspension sits.

So I installed the Bilstein Monotube for stock application with the "comfort" (soft) valveing because that matches my goals best.

Is that your question?
 
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skyhighsami

skyhighsami

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In the past when I have lowered vehicles I have had best results when using spindles. Would this be a good kit? Plus it would maintain adjustablity of final lift with the torsion bars without gaining all my lift from cranking on the torsion. My only concern with this kit is angle of the axle shafts. Let me know what you think. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TAHO...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e836d6dd
 
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