Timing chains

[SnowDrifter]

That's fair. Pulling an axle on these should I need to replace a brake shield wouldn't really bother me though, it's a short job. And I'm not typically replacing "little" things like that being that I'm not in the rust belt, so I'm not miffed at occasional minor jobs. I see it as an opportunity to get in there and inspect parts for their condition. Typically what I need from time to time are the plastic clips, when they inevitably break, or things like crush washers, both of which the local parts store has.

I've become borderline allergic over the years to cheap quality parts. Even minor things. Feels bad when you're putting in a few hours of labor and money to get to something only to find out that it's ****** quality - either in build or fitment, and an extra few bucks would have made all the difference. I do my due diligence and get something quality. Or I try to anyway. I'm not pleased with my tie rods - tolerances are lame, they're incredibly tight. And my brakes - I got the nice UV coated rotors and ceramic pads only to be greeted with a squeak during light braking under 3mph. Month after the warranty ran out too. Bummed me out cause they work pretty well otherwise - I can get 4, 75-10mph stops in before I experience any fade.

 

[CountryBoy19]

That's fair. Pulling an axle on these should I need to replace a brake shield wouldn't really bother me though, it's a short job. And I'm not typically replacing "little" things like that being that I'm not in the rust belt, so I'm not miffed at occasional minor jobs. I see it as an opportunity to get in there and inspect parts for their condition. Typically what I need from time to time are the plastic clips, when they inevitably break, or things like crush washers, both of which the local parts store has.

I've become borderline allergic over the years to cheap quality parts. Even minor things. Feels bad when you're putting in a few hours of labor and money to get to something only to find out that it's ****** quality - either in build or fitment, and an extra few bucks would have made all the difference. I do my due diligence and get something quality. Or I try to anyway. I'm not pleased with my tie rods - tolerances are lame, they're incredibly tight. And my brakes - I got the nice UV coated rotors and ceramic pads only to be greeted with a squeak during light braking under 3mph. Month after the warranty ran out too. Bummed me out cause they work pretty well otherwise - I can get 4, 75-10mph stops in before I experience any fade.

Fair enough, we're all entitled to our opinions; I generally seek quality parts but I think it's a bit ignorant to completely label an entire brand junk/garbage because they turn out some things of questionable quality. If that were the gauge we measure a "brand" by then I would say all brands are garbage bc nobody is immune to crappy designs and crappy engineers. Even the worst companies get it right occasionally. When they do, and others vouch that its as good as or better than OEM I'm not going to say, "Nah, their other stuff is junk so this must be junk as well."

That being said, I wouldn't exactly call pulling axles to replace brake shields a "short job"... Pull wheel, calipers, brackets, rotors, e-brake, diff cover, spider pin, c-clips, and finally axles. Unless you planned to do PM on the rear diff anyways you're now on the hook for new diff cover gasket and fluid, plus a few extra hrs of time. And if your axles are like mine (grooves worn where the seals run) its a 2-man job to get the c-clips off bc when you push the axles in the seals just push them back out again so somebody has to push and hold while another pulls the c-clips.

For me the 2-piece shields don't matter bc I'm rebuilding my rear diff but if I had to pull axles to replace a dust shield I wouldn't be happy.

 

[Rocket Man]

Fair enough, we're all entitled to our opinions; I generally seek quality parts but I think it's a bit ignorant to completely label an entire brand junk/garbage because they turn out some things of questionable quality. If that were the gauge we measure a "brand" by then I would say all brands are garbage bc nobody is immune to crappy designs and crappy engineers. Even the worst companies get it right occasionally. When they do, and others vouch that its as good as or better than OEM I'm not going to say, "Nah, their other stuff is junk so this must be junk as well."

That being said, I wouldn't exactly call pulling axles to replace brake shields a "short job"... Pull wheel, calipers, brackets, rotors, e-brake, diff cover, spider pin, c-clips, and finally axles. Unless you planned to do PM on the rear diff anyways you're now on the hook for new diff cover gasket and fluid, plus a few extra hrs of time. And if your axles are like mine (grooves worn where the seals run) its a 2-man job to get the c-clips off bc when you push the axles in the seals just push them back out again so somebody has to push and hold while another pulls the c-clips.

For me the 2-piece shields don't matter bc I'm rebuilding my rear diff but if I had to pull axles to replace a dust shield I wouldn't be happy.

Exactly. I did not need to pull axles; I've done it on my Silvy and it's plain stupid to me to do all that work if I don't need to. I buy most all of my parts either OEM or better depending on what parts we're talking about. I love my Wilwood brakes and even though they were damn expensive, I'm running a blower and I need to be able to stop as fast as I can. All my suspension, steering, braking, seals, bearings, etc etc are either the best I can buy or close to it. Things like window switches, dust shields, etc can be less quality parts like Dorman IMO because the OEM stuff might not even be available or the price difference isn't worth it considering it takes minutes to replace them and the life of the parts can actually be good. I take into consideration all the specifics when ordering parts and make my decisions accordingly. Now as an example if the only way to replace those dust shields was to pull the axles, you can be sure I would have only bought OEM due to the difficulty/ time consideration. IMO companies like Dorman have their place, you just have to decide for yourself what place that is.

 

[SnowDrifter]

That being said, I wouldn't exactly call pulling axles to replace brake shields a "short job"... Pull wheel, calipers, brackets, rotors, e-brake, diff cover, spider pin, c-clips, and finally axles. Unless you planned to do PM on the rear diff anyways you're now on the hook for new diff cover gasket and fluid, plus a few extra hrs of time. And if your axles are like mine (grooves worn where the seals run) its a 2-man job to get the c-clips off bc when you push the axles in the seals just push them back out again so somebody has to push and hold while another pulls the c-clips.

Not sure if it's a difference in experience or methods but I don't think it's ever taken me more than 15 maybe 20 minutes to pull an axle on these.

Jack it up, drop the diff cover, zip the wheel off, remove the caliper bracket and flip the rotor over. Undo the bold holding in the center pin, push/pull the pin out, then toss a bungie cord around the rotor to push the axle in. From there, fish the c-clip out with a magnet and pull the axle out. And even at that, the bungie cord isn't always needed.

 

[Rocket Man]

Not sure if it's a difference in experience or methods but I don't think it's ever taken me more than 15 maybe 20 minutes to pull an axle on these.

Jack it up, drop the diff cover, zip the wheel off, remove the caliper bracket and flip the rotor over. Undo the bold holding in the center pin, push/pull the pin out, then toss a bungie cord around the rotor to push the axle in. From there, fish the c-clip out with a magnet and pull the axle out. And even at that, the bungie cord isn't always needed.

Yes I know the process. Like I said Ive done it. I must say you’re way faster than me though lol. But don’t forget you still have to put it back together and fill it with fluid which isn’t cheap. It’s not worth it to me just to avoid using a part with the name Dorman on it. Plus their design is smarter.

 

[CountryBoy19]

Not sure if it's a difference in experience or methods but I don't think it's ever taken me more than 15 maybe 20 minutes to pull an axle on these.

Jack it up, drop the diff cover, zip the wheel off, remove the caliper bracket and flip the rotor over. Undo the bold holding in the center pin, push/pull the pin out, then toss a bungie cord around the rotor to push the axle in. From there, fish the c-clip out with a magnet and pull the axle out. And even at that, the bungie cord isn't always needed.

I have to say, if true that you can pull axles in 15-20 minutes then props to you!

I guess it's also true that Nascar pit crews can change tires in just seconds... but that's not the whole story is it? Leading up to that "couple second tire change" they put in hours of advanced preparations. I could see MAYBE pulling a single axle in 20 minutes if you already had the car jacked up, all the tools laid out in order at the location they were needed, and you didn't take time to carefully place parts to keep them clean and ready for reinstall.

Lets also not forget that it's putting things back in that often takes more time. Cleaning parts off, scraping gasket surfaces, cleaning up seal surfaces, applying sealers & thread-lockers, refilling differential with oil, etc.

IMHO, pulling axles should take about 1-1/2 hrs for 1, 2 hrs for 2. The reinstall is likely closer to 3 hrs for 2.

ETA, we're also WAY off topic, haha... I'll stop now...

 

[Badwrench]

I can only speak to my situation but I had a clogged cat misdiagnoses as a "loose timing chain" or "jumped time" get a 2nd or 3rd opinion.

Hi All, So I have this ticking/chirping at idle/low RPM. Even with Both belts removed on my 2006 6.0 w/167K. Oil Pressure is @ 40psi.
I was thinking the timing belt might be loose and slapping the cover, But now I have to ask, How do you Diagnose a Bat/Clogged Cat ?

 

[iamdub]

Hi All, So I have this ticking/chirping at idle/low RPM. Even with Both belts removed on my 2006 6.0 w/167K. Oil Pressure is @ 40psi.
I was thinking the timing belt might be loose and slapping the cover, But now I have to ask, How do you Diagnose a Bat/Clogged Cat ?

These engines have timing CHAINS. And if the chain had enough slack in it to slap anything, it'd be broken. On that note, you may have a timing chain tensioner that could be broken. Earlier years had a dampener then later years got the spring-loaded tensioner. There are many, many possible causes for a ticking or chirping. We're gonna need more details on that one.

Symptoms of a clogged cat are bogging under throttle and engine not revving very much. It may rev up a little the more you apply throttle but then it'll reach a point where it stops revving in conjunction with throttle input and usually starts to bog, run rough and lose RPM. These symptoms are essentially identical to low fuel pressure (weak pump clogged filter, etc.).

 

[bottomline2000]

Hi All, So I have this ticking/chirping at idle/low RPM. Even with Both belts removed on my 2006 6.0 w/167K. Oil Pressure is @ 40psi.
I was thinking the timing belt might be loose and slapping the cover, But now I have to ask, How do you Diagnose a Bat/Clogged Cat ?

That sound may be a lifter trying to stick..there's not enough chain for it to "slap" the cover. This is not a DOHC motor. By then the chain would be off the timing sprockets..I'm running a billet timing set, but the stock one is pretty strong..

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T377A using Tapatalk

 

[Badwrench]

Thanks guys, Great News - not the chain, Whew. My other thought was flywheel ticking a shield, but also and this is weird, Its intermittent, last weekend chirping, quiet most of the week, then starts up again. I am the original owner, change oil as needed. Didn't notice worn lifters last year when I replaced valve cover gaskets( not that it matters much).