Tips/Advice from anyone that has replaced control arms?

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swathdiver

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That's the shop prices for 2 upper control arms and 2 lower balljoints. I can get the Moog CK upper control arms and complete lower control arms for $434.
If memory serves, there is more shop time in replacing the ball joints themselves than in replacing the whole arm. ACDelco Professional arms are literally Moog CK and the last time I looked they were less expensive than Moog so you might save some bucks that way.
 
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2010gmcyukon

2010gmcyukon

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If memory serves, there is more shop time in replacing the ball joints themselves than in replacing the whole arm. ACDelco Professional arms are literally Moog CK and the last time I looked they were less expensive than Moog so you might save some bucks that way.
Thanks, I'll look into that.
 

ahunn

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I'll add also that you should be wary of Moog control arms with part number starting with R. In my experience this applies to the lower control arms only. The upper control arms are still working for me at this moment. My UCA's and LCA's have been on for one year and I found out a few days ago that the lower control arms have failed/ have play in them.
 

ahunn

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I made a mistake. After a bit of checking my upper control arms are the ck part number.
 
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2010gmcyukon

2010gmcyukon

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I'll add also that you should be wary of Moog control arms with part number starting with R. In my experience this applies to the lower control arms only. The upper control arms are still working for me at this moment. My UCA's and LCA's have been on for one year and I found out a few days ago that the lower control arms have failed/ have play in them.
Yeah I've caught that message loud and clear. Defintely no Moog "R" control arms.
 

fire730

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Before jacking up the truck make a mental note of the position of the upper and lower control arms.
Take the brake caliper off and hang it off to the side.
Take the spindle off.
Remove the strut assembly.
Take the sway bar endlinks off.
Remove both control arms.
Install the new arms.
Put them at the same level as they were when the truck was on the ground.
Tighten them up fully and reinstall everything in reverse order.
No need to tighten the control arms when the truck is on the ground and you avoid putting a bind on your brand new bushings.
 

89Suburban

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Had to use a sawsall as well to get the job done on my tahoe. Went through a lot of blades that night. :mad::mad:
I went through like 6 bi-metals and only got through 60 percent of the first bolt. The 8 tooth red diablo cut right through the last of that and the 2nd one like nothing. That blade kicks ass. I mean it cut right through the entire bolt heads without hurting the alignment cams.

Remove your nuts, cut the bolt heads off. then you can pry the frame ears open far enough to cut the bolt shanks at the sides of the bushings.


image1.jpegimage0 (1).jpeg
 

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