Tonyrodz's Tahoe Build Thread

[Sam Harris]

I've had an issue for awhile--slowing down and coming to a stop, the pedal would pulsat as I came to the stop. The abs would kick in. So today I took off the ds front abs sensor and cleaned the magnet pickup. There wasn't really any debris, but I cleaned it off anyway, and sprayed a bunch of brake clean inside the hub. Still does it. I also swapped out a clogged zerk on the ds lower bj. That's good now. Still gotta do 2 on the ps.

So that didn’t fix the issue? Weak. Good thought anyway. Maybe it’s the drinker side?

 

[Tonyrodz]

So that didn’t fix the issue? Weak. Good thought anyway. Maybe it’s the drinker side?

I ran it through the scanner--non tech 2--said it was the LF sensor. I gave it a shot.

 

[Rocket Man]

I've had an issue for awhile--slowing down and coming to a stop, the pedal would pulsat as I came to the stop. The abs would kick in. So today I took off the ds front abs sensor and cleaned the magnet pickup. There wasn't really any debris, but I cleaned it off anyway, and sprayed a bunch of brake clean inside the hub. Still does it. I also swapped out a clogged zerk on the ds lower bj. That's good now. Still gotta do 2 on the ps.

You can hook up the tech 2 and look at the wheel speed sensors as you drive around to see if they’re jumping around. That’s how I found out the rears on my Silvy weren’t spinning even close to the right speed because, as I found out later, the axles were machined wrong for the reluctors.

 

[ks03]

I've had an issue for awhile--slowing down and coming to a stop, the pedal would pulsat as I came to the stop. The abs would kick in. So today I took off the ds front abs sensor and cleaned the magnet pickup. There wasn't really any debris, but I cleaned it off anyway, and sprayed a bunch of brake clean inside the hub. Still does it. I also swapped out a clogged zerk on the ds lower bj. That's good now. Still gotta do 2 on the ps.

The issue is rust on the mating surface of the hub where the sensor mounts. Rust grows and forces the sensor away, creates a larger air gap that doesn’t pickup correctly at low speed.
I like to tear off a piece of paper towel, shove it in the sensor hole, then top off the hole with grease. Take a flat file to the mating surface until it’s all clean metal, then recover the paper towel with a pick. One the mating surface of the sensor, I usually just scrape it off with a utility blade.

 

[Tonyrodz]

The issue is rust on the mating surface of the hub where the sensor mounts. Rust grows and forces the sensor away, creates a larger air gap that doesn’t pickup correctly at low speed.
I like to tear off a piece of paper towel, shove it in the sensor hole, then top off the hole with grease. Take a flat file to the mating surface until it’s all clean metal, then recover the paper towel with a pick. One the mating surface of the sensor, I usually just scrape it off with a utility blade.

Not exactly sure the process you're describing. I cleaned the magnetic tip of the sensor and put a rag with a screw driver tip in the sensor hole and spun the hub around a few cycles. I then sprayed a bunch of brake clean in the hole and spun it some more. I was looking in the sensor hole and it didn't really look bad at all. I didn't really see rust inside.

 

[Rocket Man]

Not exactly sure the process you're describing. I cleaned the magnetic tip of the sensor and put a rag with a screw driver tip in the sensor hole and spun the hub around a few cycles. I then sprayed a bunch of brake clean in the hole and spun it some more. I was looking in the sensor hole and it didn't really look bad at all. I didn't really see rust inside.

He’s talking about rust where the bolt goes in, under the mounting surface which causes the sensor to not go in all the way. So pull the sensor and look at the flat surface around the bolt hole to see if it’s built up. That’s where you would need to file. But check the actual speed readings compared to your speedo as you drive around using the Tech2.

 

[Tonyrodz]

He’s talking about rust where the bolt goes in, under the mounting surface which causes the sensor to not go in all the way. So pull the sensor and look at the flat surface around the bolt hole to see if it’s built up. That’s where you would need to file. But check the actual speed readings compared to your speedo as you drive around using the Tech2.

I gotcha now--thx Mark. The surface actually does have some surface rust on it. My speedo is off a little too lol--can't win. I'm eventually gonna pull the cluster and try to recalibrate the tach and speedo.

 

[ks03]

In my experience the speed is accurate...until it’s not
With a tech 2 in the abs you can graph the wss and drive around real slow and watch a sensor drop out momentarily without being on the brakes or activate the abs. Start at like 10 mph and slowly come to zero, in the data you can watch bad sensors momentarily read 0 then go back up, or real bad one will just hold at 0 at anything under 5mph... you can do it without graphing, but it’s easier to see

 

[Tonyrodz]

In my experience the speed is accurate...until it’s not
With a tech 2 in the abs you can graph the wss and drive around real slow and watch a sensor drop out momentarily without being on the brakes or activate the abs. Start at like 10 mph and slowly come to zero, in the data you can watch bad sensors momentarily read 0 then go back up, or real bad one will just hold at 0 at anything under 5mph... you can do it without graphing, but it’s easier to see

Is that in special functions? If so--as what? Thx for the info.

 

[pwtr02ss]

How many miles on the hubs? Any play in them?