torison bars

[the big blue bus]

any way i can be sure i have stamped? they appear to be not forged

 

[SunlitComet]

stamped steel looks like is basically a sheet of steel reformed by a press die. No matter the bends or curves on it is relatively smooth on the it surface and may appear to have been made with two sheets and it will ha edges near the bushings showing the thickness of the sheet. Won't usually find that on forged parts. However you will need to a ball joint press kit to do the bottom so if the truck can sit a little bit. Get the old pressed out and measure the opening and if in a hurry just get them locally so as not to wait for shipping.

 

[steamroller]

The stamped arms have welds on them at the seams. Pic for reference

 

[the big blue bus]

stamped i have then.doing the work in my friends dads shop where we did the leveling kit on other truck. so all the parts i listed then are what i need? dont want to order the wrong things. and i guess the keys are the same as what i go and i should order some lift keys then

 

[SunlitComet]

you seem to have the right parts picked.

 

[the big blue bus]

alright thanks. all i gotta do is make a lil more money and get some of the parts in now. going to do the leveling keys as well when i replace the parts. should look better and drive better i hope

 

[steamroller]

If the upper ball joints have never been changed they're riveted in from the factory. If you don't have access to an air chisel see if you can get one, it makes rivet removal much easier.

 

[SunlitComet]

or drill them out as stated in the service manual.

 

[the big blue bus]

thanks for tip.. im doing it in a shop so should have access to air chizel i hope lol. now one quetion may be dumb but i read on other forums people do ball joint flip and put it on the bottom of arm to get a better bj angle up top. would it be worth it to do that? only going to have 2inch crank to match the rear block may up it a lil more if i swap to 3inch block

 

[steamroller]

or drill them out as stated in the service manual.

Yeah that's the hard way, I've done both...broken drill bits, rivets spinning in the hole etc.... By the time you center punch or grind a flat spot on the 4 rivets to keep the drill bit from walking you'll have the heads knocked off and the shanks driven out with an air hammer. The money you save doing it yourself allows you to buy tools to make the job easier.

thanks for tip.. im doing it in a shop so should have access to air chizel i hope lol. now one quetion may be dumb but i read on other forums people do ball joint flip and put it on the bottom of arm to get a better bj angle up top. would it be worth it to do that? only going to have 2inch crank to match the rear block may up it a lil more if i swap to 3inch block

Meh I've seen some talk about it on FSC but I personally wouldn't do it.