Torque Setting on Rear caliper bolts 2004 z71

[Red Rider]

Does anyone know what the torque Setting on Rear caliper bolts 2004 z71 Tahoe?

I looked up the FSM and it does not make any sense. I have the JH2 Brake hyd. power setup. The FSM only talks about the front knuckle (caliper mounting bracket to knuckle) torque setting of 129ftlb.

There is a setting for:
Caliper mounting braket to backing plate, rear (jc5/jh5) 148 lb ft
Caliper mounting braket to backing plate, rear (jc6) 122 lb ft

I went with the 122 lb ft as it was the lesser of the two and was concerned of over torquing.

Additionally, is there really a reason to use locktite? I see some people go with the blue. Mine came off fairly easily so I assume the mechanic who worked on it in the past did not use locktite. They were all held at different torque settings (based on how hard each bolt was to take off.)

 

[SnowDrifter]

Honestly I've never used a torque wrench for those. Just put them nice and tight. No loctite. It's not a super torque sensitive application like you would have in a rotating mass or anything with a gasket

 

[TheAutumnWind]

loctite isnt a bad idea. I did have one come loose that must've been only finger tight... wrecked a wheel. IIRC I torqued em all down to ~115 or so after that.

 

[Quickhitch11]

Does anyone know what the torque Setting on Rear caliper bolts 2004 z71 Tahoe?

I looked up the FSM and it does not make any sense. I have the JH2 Brake hyd. power setup. The FSM only talks about the front knuckle (caliper mounting bracket to knuckle) torque setting of 129ftlb.

There is a setting for:
Caliper mounting braket to backing plate, rear (jc5/jh5) 148 lb ft
Caliper mounting braket to backing plate, rear (jc6) 122 lb ft

I went with the 122 lb ft as it was the lesser of the two and was concerned of over torquing.

Additionally, is there really a reason to use locktite? I see some people go with the blue. Mine came off fairly easily so I assume the mechanic who worked on it in the past did not use locktite. They were all held at different torque settings (based on how hard each bolt was to take off.)

If it would help, I'll check my service manual for my 03. I know it's in there.

 

[fiatdale]

Honestly I've never used a torque wrench for those. Just put them nice and tight. No loctite. It's not a super torque sensitive application like you would have in a rotating mass or anything with a gasket

Exactly what he said. Tighten until it's extremely tight. You won't break anything.

 

[Red Rider]

Yeah... except the bolt.

 

[SnowDrifter]

Yeah... except the bold.

IIRC it's an m14x2.0 thread pitch. Referencing a bolt torque spec chart - the torque spec for that fastener is 148ftlb.

If you can break a grade 10.9 m14 bolt with a clamp load of 16,000 pounds with hand tools - stop what you're doing and go compete in some strong man Hercules stuff.

Now.. My 2 cents.. While I admire your desire to have everything "to spec," it doesn't seem like you're able to access reliable data nor do you have a "feel" for how tight it's supposed to be. I'd suggest to take it to a trusted mechanic at this point. And FWIW they won't use a torque wrench on this either. I've never met someone who has outside of some bizarre TTY bolts on some of the euro cars. This isn't a procedure that regularly sees a torque wrench.

 

[SnowDrifter]

Torque chart because info is nice
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque-Tension Chart for Metric Fasteners.pdf

 

[Red Rider]

My reference has been the PDF copy of the FSM, which IMHO is a POS. Seems like it is written by some engineer with zero social skills or ability to organize thoughts in a coherent way. Going through that thing is an exercise in patience. I ordered the Haynes manual that many people here have mentioned was a good reference.

Thanks for the chart. Will print out. I had not yet looked it up, but was hoping someone would know it off top of their head. I suspected it was 148, but the FSM is not too clear.

So why would GM require the threadlock if it is not necessary? I found it strange that they require it since the torque setting is so high.

 

[Red Rider]

BTW, the last person to work on my truck was a so called professional mechanic. Every bolt on the rear calipers were torqued down to different setting, and was completely loose. So I will stick to using a torque wrench.