Towing Camper Trailer

[bluebear15]

Hey guys I've got an 05 Z71 Suburban and we are looking into buying a camper trailer. Looking at ones that have all hard sides (not a pop up or hybrid). I was wondering what's a good gross towing weight not to exceed to not put too much strain on the drivetrain/engine and what length trailer that might be. We aren't looking at using it more than a handful of times per year.

 

[Bill 1960]

1500, 5.3? Gear ratio? Lift, tires?

 

[bluebear15]

1500, 5.3? Gear ratio? Lift, tires?

1500 with 5.3. Gear ratio is stock for Z71. No lift with stock size tires.

 

[swathdiver]

Well, this is what is in your owner's manual:


Many folks like not to exceed 80% of their capacities.

 

[bluebear15]

Well, this is what is in your owner's manual:
View attachment 274220

Many folks like not to exceed 80% of their capacities.

I knew those were the values but wanted to know what's more reasonable. The 80% that you mention sounds good.

 

[Bill 1960]

Wind resistance from travel trailers is a bigger load than the weight. It never goes away. Once you’ve got the mass accelerated, it doesn’t suck so much power.

The 4L60 has a weak overdrive assembly. Some people towing heavy use 3rd.

I’d be looking around 6k myself, loaded, for a relaxed tow. More weight wouldn’t worry me for relatively short distance.

The Burb is a famously good tow rig for the SUV world. Length won’t be an issue as long as you’re using a hitch with weight distribution and anti sway. You’ll run out of weight capacity before you get something too long.

There’s a lot of difference in how trailers of the same size will tow. Worst case is a cheap square box on a high chassis with lots of ground clearance- and lots of wind resistance. Best case is low down, aerodynamic, with torsion axles- think Airstream. In the middle is a whole spectrum of variations in trailer design.

Do you have any experience towing big enclosed trailers? It’s a lot different than a lawn trailer or a car hauler etc.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Spend the money on a lower, sleeker trailer and you can do 7K. Then budget $2-3K to replace your transmission the next year.

 

[fasteddy]

5.3 sub?
I would stay under 5K.
Rent one first and see what you feel and your sub feel comfortable with.
Whatever you put back there its gonna feel bigger and heavier.

 

[bobsburban]

Coming to this party late but with real world experience. My rig is the truck detailed in my sig - a 2011 'Burb 1500 with 3.42 gears, a 2"-ish lift and 32" tires, which are larger than stock and reduce the gear ratio a little further. I'm pulling a 1706FB Winnebago (17' box, 20' total length, dry weight of 2900 lbs, hitch weight specified at 300 lbs). Depending on the trip, our total weight is in the 4500 lb range, with two 5 gallon Jerry cans of gasoline and 30 lb propane tanks added to the trailer hitch. With some stuff in the front storage compartment, a hitch scale is showing 400 lbs at the ball. Whenever my stock trailer battery craps out, I'll be adding more battery capacity, which will mean another 50 - 100 lbs on the ball unless I go lithium.

1) A good weight distribution hitch with integral sway control is essential. Don't cheap out. Even with that, I added Airlift 1000 bags to the Z71 springs I installed after deleting the air ride suspension. I'm able to level the trailer with 40 lbs of pressure in them and the porposing is gone. The Bilstein 5100s do a good job of controlling everything now that I have that issue fixed.
2) The 3.42 does okay but always use the tow mode to keep the tranny out of overdrive - and also improve the shift points for towing. Larger tires will impact low end power and shift points - the rig will work harder because of the reduced gear ratio. I'm thinking of going to 4.10 if I rebuild my diffs even with the small-ish 32" tires. With your four-speed, I'd pull in third no matter what. And add a bigger transmission cooler (see below).
3) Brakes. I've not upgraded mine but am running new pads and rotors. I'm pretty conservative with the bread box in tow but bigger brakes would be nice. They would be a definite addition if I traded for a heavier trailer.
4) I had to address cooling as I bought the truck with a leaking radiator. That said, I went with a 3" dual core radiator which has helped tremendously. I also added a Tru-Cool 40k transmission cooler. Transmission stays nice and cool now, engine stays pegged at 210 no matter what - including steep grades. A Derale might be a better option - they have more mounting options.

Takeaways? Improving the cooling capacities would be my first priority, even pulling a 3000-ish lb trailer. If 6000 lbs, add a brake upgrade. Really good WDH and probably airbags especially if you go with the heavier trailer. Tow in tow mode if you have it, third for sure on your transmission. Slow down and travel two-lane roads and enjoy the scenery on the way...

Happy traveling!

 

[corvette744]

I would like to know your g code in the glove box-tranny cooler a must for upgrade.The most important thing to me would be to upgrade the brakes.My boat was only 3000 pounds and if i had to to emergency braking i would run into anything in front of me-the stock brakes suck.I would never tow anything on these without upgrade to at least the 07-14 rotors calipers and pads.Any weight over 3000 and i would recommend 410 gears or higher especially with a little bigger tire than stock on it.I have 3.73 gear with a 33 inch tire and towing a 3000 pound boat can barely pass someone if i want to.Gearing is key unless you want to get crazy with the motor i did not.