Towing Travel Trailer
- Thread starter Bob2C
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Bob2C
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Here you go..
http://webcontent.goodsam.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2017.pdf
You bought a trailer to use it once a year (if that)?
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http://webcontent.goodsam.com/trailerlife.com/digital_editions/TrailerLifeTowGuide2017.pdf
You bought a trailer to use it once a year (if that)?
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OP
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Bob2C
Full Access Member
Nooooo. Going to rent a travel trailer and take the family on vacation.
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Aah..
Then in that case a couple of additional tips.
Don't rely on someone else to set up your hitch properly. Each vehicle/trailer combination will be unique. Best thing you can to is completely disassemble the hitch and pull out the hitch manual each time and start from the beginning with your hitch, trailer, and vehicle measurements. The E2 is a great hitch. However, if it's not setup properly you'll hate it. I've seen multiple set up by dealers that were not set up correctly. If it were me I'd do it myself to ensure its done right.
When towing and the trailer starts to sway: DO NOT HIT THE VEHICLE BRAKES! Remove your foot from the go pedal and lightly and gradually apply the trailer brakes using the lever. Depending on how severe the sway is, you may need to exert more force but go light.. it doesn't take much.
I went through two sets of brand new air ride shocks in the year I used the Esky to pull the camper. Hitch setup is critical to avoiding this. Shocks are considered a wear item and from the stealership they're about $500 each + labor. You can save a lot of money if you need to replace one by DIY. It is not a difficult thing to do. The same shocks are available on Amazon for half the price of the dealer.
I have not looked at the newer generation dash, but in my Esky, it's full of warning lights and needle guages with no reference numbers. Buy yourself an OBD 2 reader and download the Torque Pro app for your phone. With that, you can easily monitor your real-time vehicle info like engine temp, tranny temp, etc.
Towing a 30' sail is not the same as pulling a 19' cargo trailer or boat. Keep the speed down until you completely understand what it's like to tow something this big. Gas mileage will be cut in less than half of normal. You can absolutely plan on that. Coming back from Sarasota a few years ago, I was stopping every two hours to fill up. I would limit yourself to 55-60 until you get the hang of it. Even with my Dually now I hardly ever exceed 70 while towing. Maybe just a short burst to pass someone. RV tires are notorious for blowouts and most are not rated for anything over 65 anyway.
I'll think of more. I hope this is helpful.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
Then in that case a couple of additional tips.
Don't rely on someone else to set up your hitch properly. Each vehicle/trailer combination will be unique. Best thing you can to is completely disassemble the hitch and pull out the hitch manual each time and start from the beginning with your hitch, trailer, and vehicle measurements. The E2 is a great hitch. However, if it's not setup properly you'll hate it. I've seen multiple set up by dealers that were not set up correctly. If it were me I'd do it myself to ensure its done right.
When towing and the trailer starts to sway: DO NOT HIT THE VEHICLE BRAKES! Remove your foot from the go pedal and lightly and gradually apply the trailer brakes using the lever. Depending on how severe the sway is, you may need to exert more force but go light.. it doesn't take much.
I went through two sets of brand new air ride shocks in the year I used the Esky to pull the camper. Hitch setup is critical to avoiding this. Shocks are considered a wear item and from the stealership they're about $500 each + labor. You can save a lot of money if you need to replace one by DIY. It is not a difficult thing to do. The same shocks are available on Amazon for half the price of the dealer.
I have not looked at the newer generation dash, but in my Esky, it's full of warning lights and needle guages with no reference numbers. Buy yourself an OBD 2 reader and download the Torque Pro app for your phone. With that, you can easily monitor your real-time vehicle info like engine temp, tranny temp, etc.
Towing a 30' sail is not the same as pulling a 19' cargo trailer or boat. Keep the speed down until you completely understand what it's like to tow something this big. Gas mileage will be cut in less than half of normal. You can absolutely plan on that. Coming back from Sarasota a few years ago, I was stopping every two hours to fill up. I would limit yourself to 55-60 until you get the hang of it. Even with my Dually now I hardly ever exceed 70 while towing. Maybe just a short burst to pass someone. RV tires are notorious for blowouts and most are not rated for anything over 65 anyway.
I'll think of more. I hope this is helpful.
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Bob2C
Full Access Member
This great info!!! Really appreciate it. I saw this in the manual as well. Have you had any experience with this system? I’m curious on if it does what it says.
Trailer Sway Control (TSC)
Vehicles with StabiliTrak have a Trailer Sway Control (TSC) feature. Trailer sway is unintended side-to-side motion of a trailer while being towed. If the vehicle is towing a trailer and the TSC detects that sway is increasing, the vehicle brakes are selectively applied at each wheel, to help reduce excessive trailer sway. If the vehicle is equipped with the Integrated Trailer Brake Control (ITBC) system, and the trailer has the electric actuated brake system, StabiliTrak may also apply the trailer brakes.
If TSC is enabled, the Traction Control System (TCS)/StabiliTrak warning light will flash on the instrument cluster. Vehicle speed must be reduced. If trailer sway continues, StabiliTrak can reduce engine torque to help slow the vehicle. See Traction Control/Electronic Stability Control .
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If you were hauling a small cargo trailer I'd say yes, it may help. However, to stop sway on a large camper in my book, vehicle brakes should never be applied.
I was hauling a 6x10 U-haul a couple of months ago and I was wishing for my trailer brakes and controller. The ride was horrible and the trailer was all over the road.
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Tires.
Inflate to maximum sidewall pressure on the rear tires for sure.
Passenger tires are squishy and the PSI indicated on the door jamb are for normal city/highway driving and not pulling a load.
I didn't do this in the beginning so now I have two tires that have rounded sidewall edges.
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Inflate to maximum sidewall pressure on the rear tires for sure.
Passenger tires are squishy and the PSI indicated on the door jamb are for normal city/highway driving and not pulling a load.
I didn't do this in the beginning so now I have two tires that have rounded sidewall edges.
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Bob2C
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Thanks for all the info. I knew I could get some really good tips here from everyone. Much appreciated
Tiredmechanic23
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ill add my 2 cents as someone who has towed a travel trailer for years when working pipeline. Sway hitch will help a ton. The vehicle can do it fine and trans temps will exceed 200 but if it starts to get overly hot it will warn you.
Use your display to watch the temps if it helps you feel comfortable. In the mountains when downhill be gentle on any brakes used since the trailer will be pushing at that point you can create a sway condition. I usually coast down hill and if it gets a bit pushy or quick I lightly apply the trailer brakes manually.
properly set tongue weight. It makes a huge difference in how things will handle. Also do not over inflate the tires. Once loaded you can chalk the tires and drive a few feet and see your tread pattern. You want full contact but not eating the sidewall edges.
For the earlier question on the TSC and stabilitrack, basically the vehicle will individually brake each wheel as needed to counter the sway while also applying trailer brakes if it feels need to do so to help. Its a huge help but it has limitations a wildly swaying trailer can still get away from it. The big thing is besides how you brake with sway is keeping your steering pointed to where you want to be. Keep the wheel straight do not try to counter steer it you will just exaggerate the sway.
Last travel trailer I pulled was with my 2016 LS Tahoe. It was a 28 footer and old. I was near capacity and pulled it about 250 miles. It pulled fantastic. Ive pulled a much lighter trailer though that would not distribute well and it pulled like crap. And currently I often pull a mini excavator home from work as im doing some clearing and it pulls great. Every trailer is different and you may have to stop and adjust a time or 2 to feel comfortable and that is OK.
Also use tow mode for sure. Tow mode uses a different set of tables and makes a difference in keeping within the power band when getting going down the road. A longer wheelbase would be more stable and ideal for sure but with proper setup and learning the rig the smaller wheelbase can do it.
Use your display to watch the temps if it helps you feel comfortable. In the mountains when downhill be gentle on any brakes used since the trailer will be pushing at that point you can create a sway condition. I usually coast down hill and if it gets a bit pushy or quick I lightly apply the trailer brakes manually.
properly set tongue weight. It makes a huge difference in how things will handle. Also do not over inflate the tires. Once loaded you can chalk the tires and drive a few feet and see your tread pattern. You want full contact but not eating the sidewall edges.
For the earlier question on the TSC and stabilitrack, basically the vehicle will individually brake each wheel as needed to counter the sway while also applying trailer brakes if it feels need to do so to help. Its a huge help but it has limitations a wildly swaying trailer can still get away from it. The big thing is besides how you brake with sway is keeping your steering pointed to where you want to be. Keep the wheel straight do not try to counter steer it you will just exaggerate the sway.
Last travel trailer I pulled was with my 2016 LS Tahoe. It was a 28 footer and old. I was near capacity and pulled it about 250 miles. It pulled fantastic. Ive pulled a much lighter trailer though that would not distribute well and it pulled like crap. And currently I often pull a mini excavator home from work as im doing some clearing and it pulls great. Every trailer is different and you may have to stop and adjust a time or 2 to feel comfortable and that is OK.
Also use tow mode for sure. Tow mode uses a different set of tables and makes a difference in keeping within the power band when getting going down the road. A longer wheelbase would be more stable and ideal for sure but with proper setup and learning the rig the smaller wheelbase can do it.
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