Trailer brake controller - 2011 Tahoe with tow package

[jrileyyy229]

2011 Tahoe.. It has the tow package and the "real" tow package with the coolers, confirmed via RPO codes in glove box.
Having trouble figuring out how to get a brake controller to work for a new-to-me trailer with dual axle brakes.

The former owned towed a boat, so I know he had working brakes, unfortunately I bought it 6 years ago and no longer have his number.

There were the 4 wires under the dash that I used to connect to a hopkins brake controller, it has power but isn't doing anything. Triple checked the right wires connected to the right wires on brake controller.
Gave up, bought one of those Bluetooth ones, it has power when plugged into the 7pin but when trying to control the trailer brakes it says cannot communicate.
I put a test light on the pin that is the trailer brakes, and it isn't lighting up.

Trailer brakes work, issue isn't at the trailer.

Should the test light come on at the trailer brake pin when I pump brake pedal?
Am I completely missing something?

I do have an ABS and stability control dash lights on due to a wheel speed sensor, does that have anything to do with trailer not getting brake power?

 

[wjburken]

Check the wire connections and fuse (63?) under the hood at the fuse block above the front drivers wheel. I would also check the grounds at the rear of your truck to make sure that’s in good shape.

I have found that etrailer.com has some good videos and write ups that I’ve used for reference before.

 

[jrileyyy229]

Appreciate that.... Will check fuse and that resource

 

[jrileyyy229]

Looked at the Etrailer recommended controller pigtail adapter,.and directions for my 2011... what I have is a different brand but has the same four wires and the same directions, essentially the same thing

 

[Fless]

I'd probably disconnect the controller and temporarily jumper (using a fused link) the hot lead coming from the fusebox to the blue wire that goes to the trailer connector; at that point you can measure the voltage at the trailer brake pin on the 7-pin (#2 in the diagram below). But having voltage there doesn't guarantee that the wire can handle a current load.



Be careful what ground you use to test. I'd recommend using the ground on the 7-pin (#1 in the diagram) since that's what the trailer will need for the brakes. Confirm that the ground wire behind the 7-pin (as @wjburken noted) is clean and secure to the truck frame. Then you can power a high amperage bulb (headlight bulb, fog lamp, etc.) using those two connectors; that will tell you if the power and ground can handle a load. Don't do it too long if your temporary jumper wire under the dash is a small gauge wire.

Another temporary way to test the ground circuit is to connect the trailer to the 7-pin, then use jumper cables from a good ground on the truck frame to a clean spot on the trailer, thereby bypassing or "helping" the wired ground.

 

[mikez71]

regarding the fender connection..