Trans Shift Bracket

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Airman68

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Last weekend, I decided to finally do a full trans service. 2008 5.3/4l60E. When I went to drop the pan, I have moved the shift bracket out of the way. Being this is a WI truck and this probably was not done for a long time, the bolts holding the bracket were rusted solid. There was no bending it far enough out of the way to get the pan off. Fortunately (not sure how I got that lucky) the original gasket was intact and I was able to lower the pan low enough to get the filter changed. I put the pan back up with the old gasket and so far so good.

That said, I still want to put a fresh gasket on there at some point. So, does anyone have any ingenious ideas how to get those bolts out of there? I mean, short of dropping the trans, looking for some creative suggestions. Unfortunately, I'm thinking the top of the bolt is wrecked with me trying to get it out.

On a side note... I did a complete fluid exchange with Valvoline Max. The fluid that came out was very dark. I changed my filter and added a new aux trans cooler. I tow a 5000lb boat and went from the low 200F to 160's! Could not believe it and I think my truck is thanking me! Crossing my fingers I didnt wait too long.
 

89Suburban

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Last weekend, I decided to finally do a full trans service. 2008 5.3/4l60E. When I went to drop the pan, I have moved the shift bracket out of the way. Being this is a WI truck and this probably was not done for a long time, the bolts holding the bracket were rusted solid. There was no bending it far enough out of the way to get the pan off. Fortunately (not sure how I got that lucky) the original gasket was intact and I was able to lower the pan low enough to get the filter changed. I put the pan back up with the old gasket and so far so good.

That said, I still want to put a fresh gasket on there at some point. So, does anyone have any ingenious ideas how to get those bolts out of there? I mean, short of dropping the trans, looking for some creative suggestions. Unfortunately, I'm thinking the top of the bolt is wrecked with me trying to get it out.

On a side note... I did a complete fluid exchange with Valvoline Max. The fluid that came out was very dark. I changed my filter and added a new aux trans cooler. I tow a 5000lb boat and went from the low 200F to 160's! Could not believe it and I think my truck is thanking me! Crossing my fingers I didnt wait too long.
What did you use for an aux cooler and how/where did you install it?
 

NickTransmissions

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Last weekend, I decided to finally do a full trans service. 2008 5.3/4l60E. When I went to drop the pan, I have moved the shift bracket out of the way. Being this is a WI truck and this probably was not done for a long time, the bolts holding the bracket were rusted solid. There was no bending it far enough out of the way to get the pan off. Fortunately (not sure how I got that lucky) the original gasket was intact and I was able to lower the pan low enough to get the filter changed. I put the pan back up with the old gasket and so far so good.

That said, I still want to put a fresh gasket on there at some point. So, does anyone have any ingenious ideas how to get those bolts out of there? I mean, short of dropping the trans, looking for some creative suggestions. Unfortunately, I'm thinking the top of the bolt is wrecked with me trying to get it out.

On a side note... I did a complete fluid exchange with Valvoline Max. The fluid that came out was very dark. I changed my filter and added a new aux trans cooler. I tow a 5000lb boat and went from the low 200F to 160's! Could not believe it and I think my truck is thanking me! Crossing my fingers I didnt wait too long.

You're dropping the trans to remove/replace those bolts. Sometimes a 4L60e will come in where one or both of the T40 heads on those are completely stripped/rounded out. I'll take a cut off wheel, cut a slit across the bolt head(s) then use a small hand held torch to heat up the case bolt hole location to expand the threads and break the corrsion bond. Then I'll use an impact driver with hammer and wide impact bit to remove them.

That said, you shouldnt have to touch those bolts or bracket to remove and reinstall the pan. Just carefully remove the pan out from underneath - drop the pass side of the pan first then slip the driver side of the pan underneath the bracket.
 
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Airman68

Airman68

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What did you use for an aux cooler and how/where did you install it?
I used a Hayden #678 universal cooler. I mounted it in the center of my radiator and attached it to the radiator support. I used hoses and tapped into the outlet of the main radiator using a fitting that goes into the outlet of the radiator. Once I had the front bumper/grill off, it took less than an hour to install. I did this based on a youtube video I saw. I decided on a slightly smaller cooler than they suggested simply for ease of installation. Figured it was better than nothing.
 
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Airman68

Airman68

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You're dropping the trans to remove/replace those bolts. Sometimes a 4L60e will come in where one or both of the T40 heads on those are completely stripped/rounded out. I'll take a cut off wheel, cut a slit across the bolt head(s) then use a small hand held torch to heat up the case bolt hole location to expand the threads and break the corrsion bond. Then I'll use an impact driver with hammer and wide impact bit to remove them.

That said, you shouldnt have to touch those bolts or bracket to remove and reinstall the pan. Just carefully remove the pan out from underneath - drop the pass side of the pan first then slip the driver side of the pan underneath the bracket.
I wish that would have worked but it simply was too close to pull the pan free no matter how I did it. I even bent the bracket out as far as it went and the pan still wouldnt clear. The cutoff wheel trick might work but it's tight quarters up there.
 

NickTransmissions

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I wish that would have worked but it simply was too close to pull the pan free no matter how I did it. I even bent the bracket out as far as it went and the pan still wouldnt clear. The cutoff wheel trick might work but it's tight quarters up there.
Yep, that's why I said it's coming down...Also, read your original post about dark fluid - that's more than likely a sizable percentage of the friction material from your 3-4 clutch pack and 2-4 band so plan on pulling the unit for overhaul sooner rather than later. You can deal with those bolts once it's out; I wouldn't bother with them now.
 

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