Transfer case output seal leaking again

[Chubbs]

great suggestion @Wildhorse

It doesn't matter how many times you replace the seal, the output will continue to leak until all of the underlying failures are addressed.

I haven't been into this TC yet, but have seen the inside of more than I wanted to.

Always inspect the actual output shaft and the bore which the seal lives. the bore or seal housing must be clean & smooth. Same for the shaft. Always clean and thoroughly inspect all of the components. A seal will not "seal" if the shaft or housing is marred/contaminated/pitted. If you get everything disassembled to find something suspicious, do an Internet search or come back with pictures so that we can assist you. once again, take your time, clean everything with alcohol or solvent and get some good light shining on your work area. Detail is the number-1 priority when it comes to gasket & seal. You have to properly remove the old/leaky seal to begin with so that you don't F*ck up the bore (contact surface) with your tools trying to pry it out. Wipe everything down good as new and make sure it can go back together without any extra steps for refurbishing the surfaces. Always lube both outside AND inside of replacement seal to ease assembly and prevent any damage to the new seal surface.

Doing this R&R all over again so soon means that you missed something last time so just be prepared.

The block of wood works fine, so long as it fits the way you crafted it. Large sockets do the same thing, PVC pipe, specialty tools that are usually waaaay overpriced but could be found @ bargain via Amazon/eBay. NAPA is the worst when it comes to price gouger.

 

[dman76]

I remember cleaning the yoke thoroughly with alcohol and making sure it was smooth and cleaning where the seal goes before installing it. The leak appears to be coming out of where the yoke goes into it as opposed to where the seal was pushed into the transfer case. Would a way to check the bushing be to grab the driveline and see how much play there is when you try to move it around?

Doing a quick search, I found a few videos showing the removal of the transfer case to replace the bushing. Is that correct? Is this a pretty big project that may be difficult, especially while not having a lift ?

great suggestion @Wildhorse

It doesn't matter how many times you replace the seal, the output will continue to leak until all of the underlying failures are addressed.

I haven't been into this TC yet, but have seen the inside of more than I wanted to.

Always inspect the actual output shaft and the bore which the seal lives. the bore or seal housing must be clean & smooth. Same for the shaft. Always clean and thoroughly inspect all of the components. A seal will not "seal" if the shaft or housing is marred/contaminated/pitted. If you get everything disassembled to find something suspicious, do an Internet search or come back with pictures so that we can assist you. once again, take your time, clean everything with alcohol or solvent and get some good light shining on your work area. Detail is the number-1 priority when it comes to gasket & seal. You have to properly remove the old/leaky seal to begin with so that you don't F*ck up the bore (contact surface) with your tools trying to pry it out. Wipe everything down good as new and make sure it can go back together without any extra steps for refurbishing the surfaces. Always lube both outside AND inside of replacement seal to ease assembly and prevent any damage to the new seal surface.

Doing this R&R all over again so soon means that you missed something last time so just be prepared.

The block of wood works fine, so long as it fits the way you crafted it. Large sockets do the same thing, PVC pipe, specialty tools that are usually waaaay overpriced but could be found @ bargain via Amazon/eBay. NAPA is the worst when it comes to price gouger.

 

[Chubbs]

http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?s=79c436743806af6c4237894f21f46042&t=59256&page=2