U-joint replacement

[Vortecmass]

In what range mileage the U-joints should be replaced?
Also, should I get factory ones or ACdelco brand?

this goes on a 07’ LS 2wd

Thanks

 

[Wake]

Moog replacements are just fine. As for when to replace I think a lot will depend on where you live. I live in a salt use area and I replaced mine at 90k miles on my 05. They were very dried out and didn't rotate smoothly. Prior to living in a salt environment I never replaced universals at well over 100K miles.

It's a real PITA to get them out though, GM uses a plastic retainer that I think is pushed into a notch inside the yoke. I had to take a torch to them to melt the plastic to pull the universals. One of the joints still had a very good seal and popped very hot grease all over the inside of my garage and all over me. Not fun.

 

[Yukon_Joey]

Just replaced the rear u-joint (rear diff end) on my drive shaft on my Yukon with almost 110K on the odometer a few weeks ago after it had been squeaking for about a week. If you aren't hearing them squeak or clunk, you should be good to go.

The plastic retainer is a PITA when compared to clips but, it's not that bad. I managed to press mine out without any heat using a ball joint press I rented from auto zone and a couple of large wrenches for leverage. I imagine with a little heat the press would have made it that much easier.

 

[mattjones]

I'm at about 110k right now and recently I've been noticing a squeal when I accelerate. Almost sounds more like a belt or something but it only seems to happen when I actually press the gas pedal. Does that sound like a bad U joint?

 

[Yukon_Joey]

I'm at about 110k right now and recently I've been noticing a squeal when I accelerate. Almost sounds more like a belt or something but it only seems to happen when I actually press the gas pedal. Does that sound like a bad U joint?

Sounds exactly like a u-joint. Mine actually sounded like someone getting busy on a mattress at the right speed. lol... I'd bet money on it being the joint closest to the rear differential. Stick your head under there and take a look at it. If it's good and rusty, it's most likely the culprit.

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[ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)]

i always thought a sign of wearing u joints would be excessive play in the drive shaft

 

[mattjones]

Sounds exactly like a u-joint. Mine actually sounded like someone getting busy on a mattress at the right speed. lol... I'd bet money on it being the joint closest to the rear differential. Stick your head under there and take a look at it. If it's good and rusty, it's most likely the culprit.

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******** it, that's what I was afraid of. The mattress sound is actually about right. I think I actually have two squeaks happening right now, one is more intermittent (I think) and seems to be coming from the driver side front wheel. So I guess I'm going to check the hub this weekend, but that's been going on for awhile and I've heard that hub bearings tend to go bad quickly. So we'll see.

As far as this squeak, I just climbed under the truck and grabbed the driveshaft and it didn't seem to have any movement at the U joints. Do I need to jack the wheels up off the ground in order to properly check?


Of course all this stuff waits until a few months after my warranty expires before it happens...

i always thought a sign of wearing u joints would be excessive play in the drive shaft

That's what I was thinking, which is why I was surprised my driveshaft didn't seem to have ANY play. But like I said, the truck was sitting on the ground with no wheels jacked up so maybe I need to do that before I check more thoroughly.

 

[Yukon_Joey]

******** it, that's what I was afraid of. The mattress sound is actually about right. I think I actually have two squeaks happening right now, one is more intermittent (I think) and seems to be coming from the driver side front wheel. So I guess I'm going to check the hub this weekend, but that's been going on for awhile and I've heard that hub bearings tend to go bad quickly. So we'll see.

As far as this squeak, I just climbed under the truck and grabbed the driveshaft and it didn't seem to have any movement at the U joints. Do I need to jack the wheels up off the ground in order to properly check?


Of course all this stuff waits until a few months after my warranty expires before it happens...

Mine had zero play but, it squeaked like hell. This is why they squeak...

Eventually all that rust will wear down the bearing surfaces and there will be play but, it's possible to have a joint without any play that is filled with rust (as you can see above).

As for the warranty, I wouldn't count on them replacing a u-joint. The front hub maybe but, I'd almost bet they would say your u-joint was a common wear item (not covered under warranty). If your not over the mileage on the warranty, I would still check with the dealer. I've heard of dealers doing customers a favor when they are slightly out of warranty.

Actually a bad u-joint is probably a blessing, it's probably the cheapest squeaking part to fix. IT was less than $20 delivered to my door from RockAuto.

 

[mattjones]

Mine had zero play but, it squeaked like hell. This is why they squeak...

Eventually all that rust will wear down the bearing surfaces and there will be play but, it's possible to have a joint without any play that is filled with rust (as you can see above).

As for the warranty, I wouldn't count on them replacing a u-joint. The front hub maybe but, I'd almost bet they would say your u-joint was a common wear item (not covered under warranty). If your not over the mileage on the warranty, I would still check with the dealer. I've heard of dealers doing customers a favor when they are slightly out of warranty.

Actually a bad u-joint is probably a blessing, it's probably the cheapest squeaking part to fix. IT was less than $20 delivered to my door from RockAuto.

Good point, I'll probably order some from Amazon tonight. Anything else I need to order, like grease or something?

And what are the chances you'd want to do a step by step write up on changing them out?

 

[Yukon_Joey]

Good point, I'll probably order some from Amazon tonight. Anything else I need to order, like grease or something?

And what are the chances you'd want to do a step by step write up on changing them out?

They should come pre-greased, so no grease needed. I would go to autozone and rent (it's free but, you pay a refundable deposit ) their ball joint press (It's just a big c-clamp that works almost perfectly for u-joints). I used it because I dont have a shop vise and even if I did, I dont know that I would have wanted to put that much pressure on it. They aren't designed to be presses. If you do have one, it's would be best used just to hold the drive shaft while pressing the u joints out with the ball joint press. All that means nothing if you have a hydraulic press though (but not many people do).

I'd also pick up some type of torch (propane is probably the cheapest). The torch really isn't needed and I didn't use one but, it probably would have made things easier (see below for more info on why it's easier).

A u joint strap kit might also be worthwhile if you think you might strip the bolts on the straps trying to get them out. They are cheap enough insurance against a future headache. I rounded one of mine and probably will have a heck of time removing it in the future if I have to.

There are a bunch of u-joint tutorials already out there on the net. The only difference between most of them and on our trucks is that GM used an injection molded plastic to keep the caps in place instead of clips. That's where the torch comes in handy. Just apply heat to those caps instead of removing any clips before pressing them out.

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