Unhooked Battery, now it won't start- Please help! *SOLVED*

[Doubeleive]

the only thing I am seeing regarding programming is if it won't lock/unlock or doesn't open close properly

 

[Doubeleive]

I think when the theft deterrent system disables the truck, the power locks are disabled as well, at least that is the way I remember it. I have never had it happen to me, so am just going on what I have read.

my 2012 has a glitch, when you disconnect the battery and reconnect it triggers a security communication issue and it will not start and will not illuminate the security light, everything else will work including the door locks, the only way to see the error is with a tech2. the fix is do what I noted above disconnect the battery, hit a few buttons and switches to clear any residual power out, hook it back up and start it.

 

[Scrapman]

then disconnect the battery cables, leave them off, go put the key in the ignition and turn it to start a couple times, flip the headlight switch a couples times and step on the brake pedal a couple times, then hook the cables back up and try again.

Gave it a shot. Nope. When I first turn the key, I get the message 'stabilitrak off" then "traction control off". None of the small gauges like the voltage are working either.

 

[Doubeleive]

also people replace these all the time it's plug-n-play, so unless you have a issue with it working properly afterwards i.e. lifting part way or not unlocking/locking, then it doesn't require programming

 

[Scrapman]

liftgate module doesn't need programming

I live in Tyler, TX

 

[Doubeleive]

Gave it a shot. Nope. When I first turn the key, I get the message 'stabilitrak off" then "traction control off". None of the small gauges like the voltage are working either.

what is your battery voltage with the key in the run position? and by this I mean at the battery not whatever it may show in the cluster.

 

[BG1988]

disconnect the battery again, touch the battery cables together for a few seconds, hook them back up, try to start again.

don't touch the battery cables together

this might be fine on older cars 1991 and before, but modern cars with 100s of computers this is a bad idea bad things can happen if one of the modules have a broken diode (reverse current protection)

it might damage components in the electronics


disconnecting the battery and turning on the hazard lights will discharge it correctly without shorting the capacitors

small chance it will pop the filament but a 5$ bulb is cheaper then a 350-400$ computer

 

[Scrapman]

I also checked the in cab fuse for the BCM. It is good.

 

[Scrapman]

what is your battery voltage with the key in the run position? and by this I mean at the battery not whatever it may show in the cluster.

12.15 volts with key in run position. 12.22 with key off.

 

[Doubeleive]

if the voltage is above 10.5 then try reaching under the edge of the underhood fuse box and jiggle the wire harness's that go up into the bottom of the fuse box
if the voltage is good then you have a bad connection somewhere something is wet or got corroded, you might have to start looking all over but your prime suspects are going to be the battery cables, starter cable, fuse box & harness, ecm harness. body grounds.