*Update: Engine Down* Cam/lifter upgrades?

[ThisIsLivin]

I made it to 176k before a non-DOD lifter failed. I had them replace all lifters valve springs, seals and rebuild rocker arms with bushings. You want to replace the oil pump as the stock pump is designed for DOD which requires more flow. I had them replace the cam with a non-DOD stock spec cam as I do a lot of towing and the stock cam gives me good torque in my towing range. I needed cooling lines and a motor mount. They also tested all injectors

 

[RLC2020]

I think I have an injector stuck open at the moment. It's idling like crap, but fine one you get on the throttle. I also had a bank 2 too rich code pop up. It's going back in thursday for that to be fixed. I kind of wish I did the cam, but the budget did not really allow that at the moment. As it sits now, I have the stock cam still in place, he just replaced the lifters for non dod ls7's and put it back together. Rods were done as well, but only because 1 was bent. Everything else is still stock.

 

[rbromm]

FWIW I have a ‘15 Yukon XL Denali with the 6.2 L86. I bought CPO with 23K on it, I installed a Range AFM disabler at 30K and at 78K I still had a failed AFM lifter. The repair was covered under the power train warranty at the time. After the repair I put the Range AFM disabler device back in and it’s been in since. Currently at 140K with no lifter issues…

Just thought I’d share some food for thought. I personally do not think that just a tune or AFM disabler is enough to add longevity.

It’s really a dice roll in my opinion. TO be honest if you’re considering going through a mechanical delete of the AFM with cam, lifters, etc. you would be good for far more than an additional 100K miles.

Plenty of threads on here with AFM delete parts list, different experience/results with different cams, etc.

What weight and type of oil are you running preceding lifter failure? Was there any excess varnish on the failed lifters?

 

[CMoore711]

What weight and type of oil are you running preceding lifter failure? Was there any excess varnish on the failed lifters?

Just the mfg recommended 0W20 for the 6.2 L86. Most oil early on was synthetic dexos from the dealer or Mobile 1.

Now I use all Amsoil Signature 0W20 and filters and change every 4K miles. Usually when I change my oil my oil life gauge still says 30%+/-.

Not sure exactly how the lifters looked at the time of the repair as it was done at the dealer.

 

[rbromm]

Just the mfg recommended 0W20 for the 6.2 L86. Most oil early on was synthetic dexos from the dealer or Mobile 1.

Now I use all Amsoil Signature 0W20 and filters and change every 4K miles. Usually when I change my oil my oil life gauge still says 30%+/-.

Not sure exactly how the lifters looked at the time of the repair as it was done at the dealer.

Thanks. I have been using Amsoil 0-20 Signature oil since new but only change mine once a year. I rarely drive more than 12k a year. Amsoil has amazing detergents and does a great job capturing and suspending contaminates. Do you also run 93 octane? I do and mine doesn’t cycle in and out of the 4cyl mode as often and pulls better on 4. Guess it is just a crap shoot on when they will fail. I can do the repair work myself but I sure dread pulling the heads off in that engine bay. 72 yrs old and just not as physical as I used to be.

 

[CMoore711]

@rbromm Yes all I run is 93 octane; Typically all Top Tier gas unless I find myself in a desperate pinch. I also have a Range AFM disabler device that keeps mine in V8 mode all the time. Not a “permanent solution”, but I like to think it helps. I drive quite a bit more than you, easily do 25-30K miles a year.