Upgrade OEM Transmission Cooler

[BrandonH13]

Below 0 temps? Yeah id spend the little bit more for the thermal bypass.

Yeah, Its Kansas lol. We went from almost 98 and 90% humidity to a cold front come through and came down to like 80 with almost no humidity. We have crazy ass weather here.
So I error on the side of caution with winter. It will be in the garage, but I know the wife will only drive it to take the kids to school and pick them up....which is about a mile to 2 miles each way.

 

[Addicted]

Any tips or pictures of a bypass installation? I am looking at the TruCool LPD4739 with a bypass.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Any tips or pictures of a bypass installation? I am looking at the TruCool LPD4739 with a bypass.

Doesnt seem to be much to it.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/plumbing-trucool-429817/

http://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...nsmission-cooler-install-thread-470284/page2/

 

[Addicted]

Doesnt seem to be much to it.

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/plumbing-trucool-429817/

http://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...nsmission-cooler-install-thread-470284/page2/

I'll have to swap out some hard tubes for hose, which doesn't excite me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TheAutumnWind]

I'll have to swap out some hard tubes for hose, which doesn't excite me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting...



I still feel like that might not be enough @ 0*, but for most people it doesn't appear to be necessary.

 

[Addicted]

Tru-Cool LPD4739 is ordered! I got a deal at $126.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Addicted]

Tru-Cool LPD4739 with bypass is installed!




I decided to use the included hose for hookup. I would have done something nicer (AN/Braided or hard lines) but the bypass has hose barbs, so I just stuck with hose barbs and clamps for all of it. I double clamped (and triple clamped one spot) even though the Tru-Cool instruction say not to. Not sure why two hose clamps is worse than one hose clamp. I made sure they were all inside the barbs, which was a tight fit. Because I used hose, I ended up drilling holes down through the plastic and foam behind the bumper. It ended up pretty nice even though I hate the look of all the hose clamps. The bypass fit nicely running front to back under the radiator.

















The hose clamps are all accessible for snugging up over time if necessary, and I even have the ones on the bottom of the cooler pointed so that I can sneak a 1/4" socket with lots of extensions through my grill to snug them without taking the grill out.

I drove it to work this morning, 20 miles at 50 degree air temp, and the transmission got up to 145, where it would only get to 130 or so before. I will be towing my camper on lots of hills this weekend, and I'm hoping I can't make it hit 200.

I blacked out the fittings and hose clamps, as well as the mounting brackets. I think it looks pretty darned sweet. Thanks to others who have done this and given me ideas.

 

[MSGKUNERT]

I just replaced my factory cooler (07 Yukon Denali XL, 205K) with the Tru-Cool Max 4739 after a trip home to Ohio for vacation and some very high towing temps. I also used the install brackets from Time2Kill which were great. His write-up leaves out a lot for the Denali version which has an extra sensor and needs a few more cuts to make it work.
Temps were around 170-185 on the way to Ohio from Georgia, and didn't go over 135 on the way home pulling a full 6x10' trailer loaded down with a golf cart (2K) and family gear.
I've got pictures on my phone if anybody needs a visual reference.

This is a must do Mod that should have been done long ago.

 

[the blur]

With a tranny cooler that big, I'd say your A/C doesn't work as well, and your coolant temps run hotter.

 

[MSGKUNERT]

With a tranny cooler that big, I'd say your A/C doesn't work as well, and your coolant temps run hotter.

Is there a way around this? I have noticed the fan running a bit more than normal but it has been an unseasonably HOT summer.