Upper control arm bolt removal, tips?

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al2fast

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So, anyone have any tips for getting the bolts out of the upper control arm? Tackled the passenger side tonight and when trying to break the nut loose on the front bolt I busted the bolt at the nut. I got the nut off on the rear bolt but man I could not get those suckers to move at all after putting a wrench on the other side and trying to spin and beating the hell out of the end of the bolts and the control arm.

I was able to get the tie rod end switched no problem and as soon as I got enough material ground off the lower ball joint a couple whacks with the hammer and I got that sucker out too. New one went in like a breeze with the press tool. Had to use some heat to get the spindle mount off of the lower ball joint.

What I thought was going to be the easiest part to remove is a *****!!

I have an 09 Yukon Denali, 117k and has seen a salty Wisconsin winter every year.

I don't have a cutting torch or anything fancy like that, just some pneumatic tools and a grinder. I soaked the shit out of those parts with penetrating oil 24hrs before messing with it. I'm about reserved to get what I can get done and put it back together and get it towed to the local shop and eat the cost to have them do it with an alignment. Should have just gotten wheel bearings right away, the one I have off now makes some noise so going to order some of those up while I'm at it.

Thanks.
 

kbuskill

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I know you said you don't have a torch but at this point it sounds like the bolt is seized and rusted to the inner sleeve of the bushing so the easiest thing to do would be to cut the head of the bolt off and try to just pull the control arm out with the shaft of the bolt still inside the bushing.

Maybe if you were careful and had enough room to work you could get a sawzall blade down on either side of the bushing and onto the bolt. It would be tedious but might work.
 
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al2fast

al2fast

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Thanks! I didn't think of that, I do have a sawzall. I can just pull the shock for more room and chop away. I'll have to make sure that I have enough metal blades for it. I was going to rip the other side apart tonight and I'm expecting to find more of the same. Got some time my new wheel bearings won't be here until tomorrow.
 

jz57

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It should be an easy job. Since the upper control arm shaft has double-D shape on its thread section, spray WD-40 or PB Blaster through the D area.

Wrap the shaft area with rag, so the oil will not be dripped and dried; let the oil soak over night.

Loose the nut, but leave last a couple of thread. Use a hammer whack the nut; use a wrench turn the hex-head; and spray ********* oil. Repeat doing above 3. The shaft will breaks loose and will come out as one peice eventually.

When install new upper control arm shaft , coat the shaft and bushing with grease.
 
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al2fast

al2fast

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It should be an easy job. Since the upper control arm shaft has double-D shape on its thread section, spray WD-40 or PB Blaster through the D area.

Wrap the shaft area with rag, so the oil will not be dripped and dried; let the oil soak over night.

Loose the nut, but leave last a couple of thread. Use a hammer whack the nut; use a wrench turn the hex-head; and spray ********* oil. Repeat doing above 3. The shaft will breaks loose and will come out as one peice eventually.

When install new upper control arm shaft , coat the shaft and bushing with grease.

Thanks for your tips. I have soaked for a couple days now minus the rag, no luck budging the bolts but got the nuts off on the drivers side without busting them. One last shot tonight when I swap my wheel bearings and if I cannot get the shafts loose I'm going to take the easy way out. Shop that has done some work for me in the past and that I have the alignment scheduled at said he wasn't swamped so he'd charge me an hour of labor per side to cut the old stuff out and swap in my parts which is starting to sound pretty good about now, I want my ride for the weekend. On an atv I had a steering stem bearing that wouldn't budge with penetrating oil and heat. I ended up making some home made concoction with transmission fluid and that stuff freed that bearing up in less than 24 hrs. I'm sure I could eventually get it, but if they don't slide out easy tonight I'm going to forgo trying to cut them out and just pay the $50 for the tow and have the shop do it.

I'm living in little city in Wisconsin for a couple months yet, Fond du Lac, WI, headquarters of Mercury Marine. We'll get the motorboat fired up for those Double D's!!
 

992dr

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Man, that's terrible you had to deal with that crap. Hopefully you can get that bolt out and not worry about any tow or other shop working on it.
Mine came off so easy, I was actually surprised.

All this double d and Motorboatin talk. I'm gonna have to go wake up the wife
 

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