Upper Control Arm Bushing Replacement @ Home?

[electro]

I think you could start with soaking them in penetrating fluid.

Then...I feel like you need to will it out with some custom set up.


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[01SLE]

Ok, figured out an easy way to get them out! I got frustrated and went into destructo mode and took a reciprocating saw to them. You can't cut through the inner pin with a recip saw, it didn't even scratch it. But I used it to remove the lip/hat pretty easily and quickly and then they push clean out without any special order tools if you've got a big ass shop press to force them out. I used the receiving cup from a ball joint press kit that you can rent. You could use the ball joint press at this point but that C-clamp would be a PITA. It takes a lot of pressure to get them in and out of the control arm. You can do all 4 of them in an hour if you use this method and do soak them in lots of penetrating oil.

 

[electro]

Nicely done. Weekend warrior.


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[01SLE]

Another update: While the method I mentioned works and only takes an extra 5 or 10 minutes per bushing to cut and pry the top off, I picked up a 14pc Master Ball Joint kit because I found it on clearance. I wanted to see if anything in there would make the job easier on the other UCA even though it doesn't specify bushings in any of the descriptions. They're sold all over the internet under different manufactures names, on Amazon, and at Harbor Freight. it's all the same kit in the same case with different retail packaging and names on it. Just find the best deal.

There's a receiving cup in there that fits over the bushing and makes contact with the control arm for pressing the old bushings out without cutting or jimmy rigging anything. There's also an important cup in there that fits over the top of the new bushing and makes solid contact with that little lip to eliminate the risk of screwing up the urethane buy putting excessive pressure on the very top of the bushing. Turns the ball joint and bushing replacement part into less than a 10 minute job and all the real time you spend is taking the control arms off and reinstalling them.

As far as doing all of this at home... if you already have a press or know someone with one, this 14pc kit makes it super easy and can be had for about $50. If you have to buy a hydraulic press or ball joint/U joint C-clamp press and the 14pc kit, it's cheaper to just buy new UCA with bushings and ball joints already installed.

If you have other jobs to do like wheel bearings, a good shop press is invaluable.

 

[electro]

Another update: While the method I mentioned works and only takes an extra 5 or 10 minutes per bushing to cut and pry the top off, I picked up a 14pc Master Ball Joint kit because I found it on clearance. I wanted to see if anything in there would make the job easier on the other UCA even though it doesn't specify bushings in any of the descriptions. They're sold all over the internet under different manufactures names, on Amazon, and at Harbor Freight. it's all the same kit in the same case with different retail packaging and names on it. Just find the best deal.

There's a receiving cup in there that fits over the bushing and makes contact with the control arm for pressing the old bushings out without cutting or jimmy rigging anything. There's also an important cup in there that fits over the top of the new bushing and makes solid contact with that little lip to eliminate the risk of screwing up the urethane buy putting excessive pressure on the very top of the bushing. Turns the ball joint and bushing replacement part into less than a 10 minute job and all the real time you spend is taking the control arms off and reinstalling them.

As far as doing all of this at home... if you already have a press or know someone with one, this 14pc kit makes it super easy and can be had for about $50. If you have to buy a hydraulic press or ball joint/U joint C-clamp press and the 14pc kit, it's cheaper to just buy new UCA with bushings and ball joints already installed.

If you have other jobs to do like wheel bearings, a good shop press is invaluable.

Right on.

However, very lacking in picture department.

 

[01SLE]

I know, I suck lol.

Honestly, I got into so much with this ball joint job that I haven't even thought about taking pictures.

A simple ball joint replacement led to, "Why don't I just replace the bushings while I have the control arm out?"
Then it led to, "Why not just do both sides rather than have to do the other side later?"
Then, "Why not attack the lowers as well while everything's apart? Bushings and ball joints?"
Then inner and outer tie rods, then rotors and pads, can't do the fronts without the reats?, then sway bar end links, then some KYB G-2 shocks, then new axel halves since there is a tear in one CV boot.


I will say this: This Yukon that I picked up this year has spent most of it's life in hot and dry AZ so the bushings showed some major cracking and dry rot at a visual inspection. The small sway bar bushings were wrecked and needed to be replaced. BUT! The larger upper control arm and lower control arm bushings were cracked and dried out on the edges but I found out after removing them, they weren't compromised on the inside where most of the support/dampening comes from. If I weren't replacing every other moving part on the front end, I would have left them alone and not gone through the hassle. At this point, I've basically reset the odometer to zero on my front corners so I'm not upset that I went through the hassle of pressing out all of the bushings.

If anyone is told by some ********* shop that their bushings "look" cracked and therefore need replacing to the tune of $300+ each for labor or complete new control arms.... screw that. They're probably fine inside where it matters. Unless pieces of the bushing material have fallen off or you can literally move the control arms in the mounts, I'd leave them alone and save the money. This is for a non-lifted/non-lowered suspension of course and just my opinion on the matter.

 

[robb.]

ive been thinkin about changing my Ball joints...
I have belltech bushings for improved camber, but they are squeaking like crazy now.
Should i just get the Moog upper control arms....as they come with ball joints and bushings.
Read somewhere the Moog control arms are offset to improve better camber with lowered vehicles.

 

[OR VietVet]

Cannot go wrong with Moog parts.