mikez71
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On those rear pillars, I upgraded 22 year old OEM to Memphis PR275. Installation was easy. I rotated the Memphis 2.75” speaker 90 degrees, then screwed the speaker frames to the base plastic with self tapping sheet metal screws. No bass vibration - I think this will hold fine but if not I’ll go back thru the outside with threaded screws and locknuts. Then I pushed the OEM black plastic plug back in the OEM top hole. The top of the plug captures the corner of the Memphis speaker frame, giving an additional third point of purchase. I used a 150 hz inline capacitor even though the amp sends a high-pass signal to the speaker, I figure this will future proof me. Replacing the two decade old speakers is crucial, in my opinion.I also ordered a new set of 3.2 ohm D pillar speakers from ebay. The speaker connector is keyed. I cut the keyed plastic off the male connector and connected to each new speaker without issue. I kinda don't care for how these speakers are mounted- one corner slips under an ear molded into the D pillar, the opposite corner screws down. Seems like that's a good recipe for speaker rattling, especially with 16 year old plastic.
Slightly off topic- how is the video to the roof-mounted display handled? I'm wondering if the signal can be hijacked somehow to display something different than whatever's on the head unit. Audio in that vein would probably be sourced from bluetooth headphones and not the IR setup.
You're on the same train of thought as me. The next step will be to find speakers that are as close to factory impedance/sensitivity as possible.On those rear pillars, I upgraded 22 year old OEM to Memphis PR275. Installation was easy. I rotated the Memphis 2.75” speaker 90 degrees, then screwed the speaker frames to the base plastic with self tapping sheet metal screws. No bass vibration - I think this will hold fine but if not I’ll go back thru the outside with threaded screws and locknuts. Then I pushed the OEM black plastic plug back in the OEM top hole. The top of the plug captures the corner of the Memphis speaker frame, giving an additional third point of purchase. I used a 150 hz inline capacitor even though the amp sends a high-pass signal to the speaker, I figure this will future proof me. Replacing the two decade old speakers is crucial, in my opinion.
Really appreciate your detailed thread. Knowledge is power, bro’. Thanks.
Yeah, the difference was very easily recognizable on first power up. Mainly the sound system now can do bass, and the processing presets are very nice, especially the "driver" one — it "directs" sound to the driver seat making it sound like you've got headphones on.Does your system sound any better with this upgrade?
On gmt900 uqs amp is controlled via GMLAN only, so no control wire. Not sure if it's the same deal on SRXTLDR; If you are still around, does the amp always power-on without a control signal, Does it turn on VIA GMLS, or is there an Amp on signal wire im missing in the diagrams i have access to.
I know its been a year (at least) but i hope you are still active in this. I do feel like an imposter here, and I'll feel more so if the information is staring me in the face. The vehicle in question is still a GM, but its a 07 SRX. I have the access to Alldata's wiring diagrams, and originally tried to use a Crux module to integrate and aftermarket stereo, but when i did the front speakers were the only thing working. I revisited the wiring diagram again today, and also referenced the "Standard" wiring where noticed that the UQS doesnt have a dedicated output from the Headunit for an amp on signal, which the standard has, and the Crux module also has. I tried contacting crux but they have been no help so im grasping at straws now.