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swathdiver

swathdiver

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As cool you would want your air, that looks reflective, but ( IMO), not also, insulating the heat away ??
Ok, so it's the wrong stuff.

I just realized that the IAT sensor is part of the MAF sensor and attaches to the top of the airbox.

So while I think the insulation will keep the box cool, it needs a scoop and hoses to direct cool and dense air into it and think that is more critical once moving. My IATs didn't really go down until I turned off at the end was going to get my timeslip!
 

Marky Dissod

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This time and last time I was watching the inlet air temps while staging and running.
While it was 55F - 41F outside, the air going into the motor was never less than 75F - 90F even after sitting for over an hour,
sometimes almost two with the hood up!

Over the years while driving, the truck's inlet air temp would climb into the triple digits while idling,
and take a few minutes to get at or just above ambient temperature once out onto the highway.

Should I take the intake off the throttle body and air everything out while waiting to race?
Grab cold air from outside. (Even in NYC, cowl induction gets spotted once in a blue moon, as well as scoops or NACA ducts.)
You not only want to insulate the airbox from heat, but also add another physical heatshield of some sort as well.
Bonus points for protecting the airbox from air that went through the radiator, and for protecting the airbox from that heat.
The goal is to be able to apply / attach cold packs to as much of the intake as reasonably possible.
Obviously they will stay colder longer if the heat underhood is better managed.

Too bad we can't make use of the air cooled by the AC, even if only for a few important moments.
Ultimately, though, none of this is as productive as you'd like to think ...
 

mountie

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Grab cold air from outside. (Even in NYC, cowl induction gets spotted once in a blue moon, as well as scoops or NACA ducts.)
You not only want to insulate the airbox from heat, but also add another physical heatshield of some sort as well.
Bonus points for protecting the airbox from air that went through the radiator, and for protecting the airbox from that heat.
The goal is to be able to apply / attach cold packs to as much of the intake as reasonably possible.
Obviously they will stay colder longer if the heat underhood is better managed.

Too bad we can't make use of the air cooled by the AC, even if only for a few important moments.
Ultimately, though, none of this is as productive as you'd like to think ...
I was also suggesting to protect the air duct, coming from the air box to the intake....
 

Marky Dissod

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I was also suggesting to protect the air DUCT, coming from the air box to the intake ...
My bad for failing to mention this.
Yes, anything and everything that can be done to not only inhale air from outside the engine bay,
but also to insulate separate and protect the entire intake from the airbox to the throttle body from heat does help.

Speaking of which, throttlebody coolant bypass!
Coolant has been running through the throttlebody since carburetion and throttlebody injection,
when fuel vapors could freeze on the throttlebody, effectively freezing the throttle itself stuck in one position.

Even though fuel is injected far further down each cylinder individually today,
coolant is still routed through the throttlebody so that any motor oil vapors condensed on its backside
won't be gummed up by being cold.
When one does the throttlebody coolant bypass, it's a GREAT time to clean its backside before reinstallation.

Vehicles that operate where it's winter-cold year round should NOT do the throttlebody coolant bypass.

Back when intake manifolds were made of metals, racers went so far as to ice them down between track passes.
It was considered rude to drip condensate on the track ...
 
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swathdiver

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Back when intake manifolds were made of metals, racers went so far as to ice them down between track passes.
It was considered rude to drip condensate on the track ...
We used to bring 40 pound bags of ice and lay them on top of the motor between runs! LOL That got old quick.

I used to block off the water from the throttle bodies way back when.

On my trucks now, the foam was shrinking between the box and fender. GM came out with replacement foam on a bracket shaped to fix the box. I have that on the Yukon now. Still have to do it to the Sierra, or she's getting a Volant soon after the tune.

In a few weeks I'll start the catch can project. Have to finish setting up the band saw and get a tap and die for the alternator bracket. Truck only has one threaded hole while the pickups have two where I want to mount the bracket.
 

Fless

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We used to bring 40 pound bags of ice and lay them on top of the motor between runs! LOL That got old quick.

I used to block off the water from the throttle bodies way back when.

On my trucks now, the foam was shrinking between the box and fender. GM came out with replacement foam on a bracket shaped to fix the box. I have that on the Yukon now. Still have to do it to the Sierra, or she's getting a Volant soon after the tune.

In a few weeks I'll start the catch can project. Have to finish setting up the band saw and get a tap and die for the alternator bracket. Truck only has one threaded hole while the pickups have two where I want to mount the bracket.

@iamdub did some new foam on his:

 
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swathdiver

swathdiver

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@iamdub did some new foam on his:

I remember! That's what prompted me to look at mine and then found the solution at GMPartsGiant.
 

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