mountie
Supporting Member
As cool you would want your air, that looks reflective, but ( IMO), not also, insulating the heat away ??That one is listed as .20 inches thick.
Here's another made for automotive use, very thin:
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As cool you would want your air, that looks reflective, but ( IMO), not also, insulating the heat away ??That one is listed as .20 inches thick.
Here's another made for automotive use, very thin:
Ok, so it's the wrong stuff.As cool you would want your air, that looks reflective, but ( IMO), not also, insulating the heat away ??
Grab cold air from outside. (Even in NYC, cowl induction gets spotted once in a blue moon, as well as scoops or NACA ducts.)This time and last time I was watching the inlet air temps while staging and running.
While it was 55F - 41F outside, the air going into the motor was never less than 75F - 90F even after sitting for over an hour,
sometimes almost two with the hood up!
Over the years while driving, the truck's inlet air temp would climb into the triple digits while idling,
and take a few minutes to get at or just above ambient temperature once out onto the highway.
Should I take the intake off the throttle body and air everything out while waiting to race?
I was also suggesting to protect the air duct, coming from the air box to the intake....Grab cold air from outside. (Even in NYC, cowl induction gets spotted once in a blue moon, as well as scoops or NACA ducts.)
You not only want to insulate the airbox from heat, but also add another physical heatshield of some sort as well.
Bonus points for protecting the airbox from air that went through the radiator, and for protecting the airbox from that heat.
The goal is to be able to apply / attach cold packs to as much of the intake as reasonably possible.
Obviously they will stay colder longer if the heat underhood is better managed.
Too bad we can't make use of the air cooled by the AC, even if only for a few important moments.
Ultimately, though, none of this is as productive as you'd like to think ...
My bad for failing to mention this.I was also suggesting to protect the air DUCT, coming from the air box to the intake ...
We used to bring 40 pound bags of ice and lay them on top of the motor between runs! LOL That got old quick.Back when intake manifolds were made of metals, racers went so far as to ice them down between track passes.
It was considered rude to drip condensate on the track ...
We used to bring 40 pound bags of ice and lay them on top of the motor between runs! LOL That got old quick.
I used to block off the water from the throttle bodies way back when.
On my trucks now, the foam was shrinking between the box and fender. GM came out with replacement foam on a bracket shaped to fix the box. I have that on the Yukon now. Still have to do it to the Sierra, or she's getting a Volant soon after the tune.
In a few weeks I'll start the catch can project. Have to finish setting up the band saw and get a tap and die for the alternator bracket. Truck only has one threaded hole while the pickups have two where I want to mount the bracket.
I remember! That's what prompted me to look at mine and then found the solution at GMPartsGiant.@iamdub did some new foam on his:
Growing up doesn't have to suck
... Did all that to make way for these: Shipping might would've been a little cheaper had they not included the duplicate bag of hardware.:rolleyes: I guess my Tahoe is now officially for track duty only: Long tubes? Short tubes? My answer: Neither! Tri-Y tubes! I don't know...www.tahoeyukonforum.com