Vermont Winter Coming: Help my 2012 Tahoe Body!

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TerryKing

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Hi Everyone,
A few leaves turning color, and BodyWork weather will last for a while. Walkaround of our Tahoe thats very good mechanically shows Trouble.

I need you advice on 2024 tech that can deal with this. It will be me not a real bodyshop. I have done some bodywork / painting. I have built boats and know epoxy work well. But what materials and sequence of application is best for this kind of TouchUp PLUS kind of work?? I would really appreciate learning from your experience.

Here's a walkaround. Online Sympathy Cards welcome :)

CENTER of the Hood inside:

TahoeRustTK-IMG_6119-01.JPG

Hood corners Inside (Both sides).
TahoeRustTK-IMG_6120-02.JPG

DriversSide Doorsill (and all passenger side) Look OK.

TahoeRustTK-IMG_6121-03.JPG

BUT This is rear Driverside sill. Why?? WhatToDo??

TahoeRustTK-IMG_6122-04.JPG

And the driverside Rear Wheelwell. I know I have to remove the inner liner to work on it.

TahoeRustTK-IMG_6123-05.JPG

And.. A Few Easy Scratches (Out of Photo space. ) (Sounds like a bad Movie!)...

I can't bear the thought of doing Nothing thru another Winter Of Salt.

Comments, Suggestions, Pointers to online suppliers, online How-To , DO's DON'Ts WELCOME

Regards, Terry King
...In The Woods In Vermont
The one who dies with the most Parts LOSES! WHAT DO YOU NEED??
 
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TerryKing

TerryKing

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Not sure if you've seen this thread...
MikeZ. Thanks.. Looking over all that... T
 

Charlie207

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I'm just a bit to the east of you, and have had to have bodywork done every year. The rear fenders are well-known GM rust magnets. My hood latch looks like yours, too. I just keep spraying Fluid Film on everything.
 
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TerryKing

TerryKing

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I'm just a bit to the east of you, and have had to have bodywork done every year. The rear fenders are well-known GM rust magnets. My hood latch looks like yours, too. I just keep spraying Fluid Film on everything.
Hi Charlie, Today Mary Alice power sanded some flat rust areas, while I sandblasted the front hood inside rim. I took left rear inner fender plastic liner off, and power wirebrushed the edge and some inner sections. Need to epoxy one small section rusted out. Then need to sandblast and POR-15. She POR-15'd the flat areas she did.. Another couple coats in the morning. Will wet sand the POR and then prime / paint the exterior parts.

Fluid film the chassis before winter. But I am testing a section with POR-15 to see how it survives a winter.
 

Charlie207

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Hi Charlie, Today Mary Alice power sanded some flat rust areas, while I sandblasted the front hood inside rim. I took left rear inner fender plastic liner off, and power wirebrushed the edge and some inner sections. Need to epoxy one small section rusted out. Then need to sandblast and POR-15. She POR-15'd the flat areas she did.. Another couple coats in the morning. Will wet sand the POR and then prime / paint the exterior parts.

Fluid film the chassis before winter. But I am testing a section with POR-15 to see how it survives a winter.

My last vehicle had the entire frame POR-15'd and holds up for a few salty winters. The key, and near-impossible task, is eliminating all the existing rust before encapsulating the metal.

The main problem that I ran into was how they covered all the suspension to frame nuts and bolts, which buries them under a hard layer, and meant I had to cut them off.
 

B-train

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Yikes.......not much will help you there. Good bathing in fluid film will help slow the decay down, but not much will fix it beyond lots of time and money. And, at that point, it'll only last a few years.

I'd throw the money at a new-2-u replacement from rust free area. Even the same year do you can have donor parts if needed.
 
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