Vibration issue
- Thread starter Kee Fuller
- Start date
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iamdub
Full Access Member
You feel it in the steering wheel or in your butt? I have what I'd describe as a similar shake. I'm suspecting driveshaft/U-joint issue. I'm kinda wanting to keep telling myself it's that so I stay prompted to upgrade my driveshaft and U-joints cuz that should be done anyway.
u-joints, driveshaft, pinion bearing.
drop the shaft and check the u-joints and see if the pinion has any play in it.
personally I would not be concerned with the hubs or tie-rods unless they have detectable play/wear
hubs will make noise/trigger abs, tie-rods will cause sloppy steering/tire wear, wobble.
ball joints/control arms will just make noise, popping, snapping.
I drive the piss out of mine the only time I have had vibration issue's it was u-joints/pinion and a bent wheel once.
if you haven't serviced the rear diff it might be worth checking just to see if there is any metal in there.
drop the shaft and check the u-joints and see if the pinion has any play in it.
personally I would not be concerned with the hubs or tie-rods unless they have detectable play/wear
hubs will make noise/trigger abs, tie-rods will cause sloppy steering/tire wear, wobble.
ball joints/control arms will just make noise, popping, snapping.
I drive the piss out of mine the only time I have had vibration issue's it was u-joints/pinion and a bent wheel once.
if you haven't serviced the rear diff it might be worth checking just to see if there is any metal in there.
OP
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Kee Fuller
Full Access Member
Steering wheel and butt. I even look over and see the pax seat shaking a bit
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
You could try turning the drive shaft 180° in the yoke after inspecting the U-joints. Might help.
RichardCranium
Full Access Member
Did anyone else get nauseous at the "cop truck" remarks, or was it just me? 
I agree with the majority, you've ruled out the wheels/tires. Since its at speed, it is surely in the drivetrain. The easiest thing you can do yourself is rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees as @George B mentioned. No change, probably not your suspect. If the shimmy moves to a different speed after rotating it, or gets worse/better, you've found your culprit. Otherwise, zero change means you can move on. KISS method really applies here, if nothing else to rule out the easy stuff.
I agree with the majority, you've ruled out the wheels/tires. Since its at speed, it is surely in the drivetrain. The easiest thing you can do yourself is rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees as @George B mentioned. No change, probably not your suspect. If the shimmy moves to a different speed after rotating it, or gets worse/better, you've found your culprit. Otherwise, zero change means you can move on. KISS method really applies here, if nothing else to rule out the easy stuff.
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Kee Fuller
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BourbonNcigars
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If it only starts at the same speed every drive that can be indicative of two or more parts resonating together at the same frequency. So instead of one going up and one going down, two variables are going up and down at the same time (vibrating/shaking).
Since you've ruled out the wheels with all the various combos you've had on the truck, and there's so many potential candidates to cause a vibration, it may be cheapest/easiest to start with the low hanging fruit like tire pressure and bushings, then work your way up from there.
Grasping here, but were all the wheels/tires done at the same place? if so, there's always a chance they just don't know what they're doing. A good and proper road force balance takes skill. And always get the numbers from them for each one if they don't provide it. Same with alignment.
Since you've ruled out the wheels with all the various combos you've had on the truck, and there's so many potential candidates to cause a vibration, it may be cheapest/easiest to start with the low hanging fruit like tire pressure and bushings, then work your way up from there.
Grasping here, but were all the wheels/tires done at the same place? if so, there's always a chance they just don't know what they're doing. A good and proper road force balance takes skill. And always get the numbers from them for each one if they don't provide it. Same with alignment.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Maximum play allowed for upper and lower ball joints is .5mm. Max play for inner and outer tie rods is 1mm.
Don't forget the control arm bushings and the sway bar bushings and end links and the two bushings in the steering rack that mount it to the frame.
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Kee Fuller
Full Access Member
End links and sway bar bushings were changed last year when i added the eibach sway bar. Another thing i can zero out thankfully.
