This is my next step. It’s the wife’s daily I and work 24 hr shifts. So things happen after two or three days for me.
2005 GMC Yukon XL
Voltage meter
- Thread starter mo2058130
- Start date
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2005 GMC Yukon XL
Voltage reads 13.5 with acc. on (a/c and lights) just running voltage reads 14.6 (pic)
Thanks all for the replies it really helps as I’m trying to learn as I go. Autozone hopefully tomorrow to check alternator.
As far as checking grounds; can you point me towards a good video? Thanks again.
2005 GMC Yukon XL
Thanks all for the replies it really helps as I’m trying to learn as I go. Autozone hopefully tomorrow to check alternator.
As far as checking grounds; can you point me towards a good video? Thanks again.
2005 GMC Yukon XL
alaska_guy
Full Access Member
Hmm... has the battery light done that always or just recently?
HA! Now that you say that, I recall that it came on after I installed my aftermarket car stereo. The acc. were on for long periods of time (with car not running) while I tested and finished the install. A couple of times the car had a hard time starting
(presumably because of low voltage on batt.)
But, it always did start and after some driving I figured the batt. would be charged to normal by the alt. If that is the case how do I “reset” the light???
This was all about 3 weeks ago.
2005 GMC Yukon XL
I can't see a reason why your alternator would be bad. Charging voltage appears well controlled (~14.5V). I'm wondering, though, if the alternator should be able to keep up with headlights and AC on better. I'll see what voltage I get with headlights and AC. I'll be curious to see how this all ends up.
If you are handy, and you have to replace your alternator, I highly recommend you rebuild your own alternator. It's really hit and miss what you get with alternators out there. I've used this guy a few times now: https://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/
I replaced my starter with a "new" ACDelco starter. It broke within a week! I got the rebuild kit and me, working at my usual slow pace, took me only about 1h extra to rebuild it. My sister had her alternator rebuilt by a local "reputable" company and it too died in a year. I rebuilt it myself and it was good for the life of the car after that.
If you are handy, and you have to replace your alternator, I highly recommend you rebuild your own alternator. It's really hit and miss what you get with alternators out there. I've used this guy a few times now: https://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/
I replaced my starter with a "new" ACDelco starter. It broke within a week! I got the rebuild kit and me, working at my usual slow pace, took me only about 1h extra to rebuild it. My sister had her alternator rebuilt by a local "reputable" company and it too died in a year. I rebuilt it myself and it was good for the life of the car after that.
GM trks/yukon/tahoe etc these years have notorious problems with bad meter movements, & shorts and intermittents in the instrument cluster. Unless your battery is in poor condition it should be about 12V and then go to about 13.75 when running. First advice is to check battery with load tester as suggested. If you are draining down below 12 over time, you can begin the process of finding the draw which is a complex procedure of elimination and troubleshooting discussed many times on this forum.
I would pull the cluster and check for bad solder connections. I looked down one day to see mine pegged at about 19V and nearly shi* myself as I had just installed a new battery about 6 months prior. Turns out it was just the motor for the gauge. It went haywire for a little while after that and now it is totally non-functional and fell right over off the scale. I never had the battery light come on though.
