Walk around after cam and heads

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swathdiver

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"All TSP engines will include 12 quarts of Driven Racing break-in oil for no additional cost. Proper break-in oil and procedures for your engine are just as important as the build process! The Driven Racing break-in oil allows for proper ring sealing against the cylinder walls upon start-up, as well as for the break-in period once the engine is up and running. Most off-the-shelf engine oils do not have the necessary ZDDP additives to allow for proper break-in of a new engine, and we want to take every precaution possible to ensure that your new TSP engine receives a proper break-in! We also offer the Driven Racing oil for your new engine once your break-in is complete. We recommend using either the HR2 conventional non-synthetic or the LS30 full synthetic oil. Please note that the Driven Racing LS30 is the ONLY synthetic oil we recommend using in your engine because it retains the necessary ZDDP additives."
 
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JDopirak

JDopirak

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"All TSP engines will include 12 quarts of Driven Racing break-in oil for no additional cost. Proper break-in oil and procedures for your engine are just as important as the build process! The Driven Racing break-in oil allows for proper ring sealing against the cylinder walls upon start-up, as well as for the break-in period once the engine is up and running. Most off-the-shelf engine oils do not have the necessary ZDDP additives to allow for proper break-in of a new engine, and we want to take every precaution possible to ensure that your new TSP engine receives a proper break-in! We also offer the Driven Racing oil for your new engine once your break-in is complete. We recommend using either the HR2 conventional non-synthetic or the LS30 full synthetic oil. Please note that the Driven Racing LS30 is the ONLY synthetic oil we recommend using in your engine because it retains the necessary ZDDP additives."
Yeah..... and my oil is synthetic........ Its to late to change it to conventional oil now i guess. I normally do a ton of research on everything i do before i do it and i did not because i trusted my friend knew all of this.
 

1BADI5

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I did not use break in oil, Didnt think we where going to be doing any bearings at all or i would have bought some ahead of time. And it would have been atleast a week or so if i ordered it and my tune was in 2days and at that point i was so stressed i wasnt thinking straight. And my buddy said he has alwsys let them idle for like 30-45min so thats what we did then drained the oil and changed the filter. 100 miles later i changed it again and well you see the pics.

As far as 4 port steam port system i got the oem steam line from a ls2 or ls3 i cant remember which and bought the steam port gaskets and bolted it on , Nothing crazy. You do have to bend the part where the hose connects a little or it hits the intake.

View attachment 246421

Sweet thanks for the information.

Experience is the best teacher......but damn she can be a *****
 

ls1frc

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That sucks. Sorry to hear.

I have done dozens of cam swaps and the cam bearings always look trashed but 99.9% of the time are perfectly fine to be reused.

I used conventional + rislone ZDDP additive when I did my DOD delete.
 
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JDopirak

JDopirak

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That sucks. Sorry to hear.

I have done dozens of cam swaps and the cam bearings always look trashed but 99.9% of the time are perfectly fine to be reused.

I used conventional + rislone ZDDP additive when I did my DOD delete.
After doing a little research i see alot of people see copper in there cam bearings even with new crate motors, And super low mileage motors. I thought it was odd when he said they where shot as my oil pressure was perfect. 35 warm idle and 57-60ish at wot. But my friend had more knowledge about ls stuff then me so i trusted him and we replaced them.
 

1BADI5

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SO is your friend still walking around with his tail between his legs? I know I'd feel like shit if a situation like that happened. I know shit happens, but you put alot of faith and money into his judgement/advise.
 
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JDopirak

JDopirak

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SO is your friend still walking around with his tail between his legs? I know I'd feel like shit if a situation like that happened. I know shit happens, but you put alot of faith and money into his judgement/advise.
He took no blame, Said we did everything right and nothing he did or reccomend we do would have caused failure and he doesnt understand how it happened. I took blame as i should have stuck with my gut feeling. But after some back and forth txt we havent talked in almost a month now. Hes one of those sloppy mechanic kinda guys ls turbo the world. He took my old 100k head gaskets and head bolts for a turbo 6.0 hes building.

Anyway im now at 600 miles no noises yet i finally did a WOT pull on the highway " 5.7 hemi dodge was annoying me" and man it really is night and day up to it pulled decent for a 6klb brick with a 5.3 lol.

I purchased a 6.0 and had it dropped off at the machine shop they are going to rebuild the short block with a new cam" haven't decided on that yet , We are going to go over everything abd decide then. I may bring it home amd leave it on stand till motor is shot in Yukon then give heads and everything else back to machine shop to build long block OR ill buy new heads and have them cnc ported also and all the parts to build a long block and have machine shop do a all new fresh build. And use parts from 5.3 for my ls mustang im starting to build. Im pretty much taking it day by day right now.
 
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JDopirak

JDopirak

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To use for mocking up or on a running motor? OEM bolts? If so, stay clear of that guy at the track, kaboom time coming up.
Running... and yes im assuming oem bolts idk if the motor was ever taken apart before i got it.
 

swathdiver

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Running... and yes im assuming oem bolts idk if the motor was ever taken apart before i got it.

Forgive me if you already know this. GM used Torque To Yield (TTY) Head Bolts. These bolts can only be used once, they stretch as they are tightened. Anyway, that guy knows so much that isn't so. He's full of pride too and probably broke. He should have offered to make things right even if he didn't have the dollars to do so.
 

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