Want to do a trans filter and fluid change....

[TheAutumnWind]

I'm planning to do this job this week on my 2011 tahoe. I did it before using a fel-pro gasket kit which looked sturdy but I did have leaks. I will be sure to properly torque this time and want to be safe and replace my pan bolts. Some people gave bad reviews on ac delco filter kit stating gasket for transmission pan dont fit because of different types. Was going to use my harbor freight fuel pump to get fluid out during flush process. This will take forever compared to first time i did it through transmission coolant line but safer.

Was preferring to use Valvoline Max life to flush the old fluid out and fill with a shutter fix type of tranny fluid like lubeguard? Any suggestions on that?

1. Part number/link for transmission bolts (how many total) - ?
2. Most recommended gasket/filter kit - ?

I used a lubelocker gasket. No leaks. Would use again.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I used a lubelocker gasket. No leaks. Would use again.

X2.

 

[George B]

The draining part went fine for me just tipping the pan slowly. I have an old lid for a water softener brine tank as a drain pan. Probably 32” diameter. Works good. I reused my gasket after a good wipe down. No leaks.

 

[the blur]

What's the best trick for getting the pan out? I've seen ratchet straps to pull down the exhaust... or unbolt the exhaust which is ridiculous.

 

[George B]

What's the best trick for getting the pan out? I've seen ratchet straps to pull down the exhaust... or unbolt the exhaust which is ridiculous.

You mean ridiculous!

 

[gooffeyguy]

I've heard that you don't have to remove the exhaust, just loosen the bolts at the collectors so it'll shift down a bit.

I've also heard of using about a 2-3 foot long crow bar or pipe with one end on top of exhaust, middle under crossmember, then a jack under the end. When jacking, the crossmember is the pivot point/fulcrum.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[calsdad]

What's the best trick for getting the pan out? I've seen ratchet straps to pull down the exhaust... or unbolt the exhaust which is ridiculous.

I've heard that you don't have to remove the exhaust, just loosen the bolts at the collectors so it'll shift down a bit.

I've also heard of using about a 2-3 foot long crow bar or pipe with one end on top of exhaust, middle under crossmember, then a jack under the end. When jacking, the crossmember is the pivot point/fulcrum.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

What I ended up doing on my 2010 Yukon XL 2500 was unbolting the transmission from the rear mount - and then jacked up the transmission up a bit. I then unbolted the pan and dropped it down - and realized that what was really keeping me from being able to slip the pan out was that the filter was in the way. So I popped the filter down and that made it so that I could slip the pan out.

No exhaust unbolting was needed. But it was still a bit of a PITA to get it out.

To get the new pan in - I had to do a similar thing in reverse. I had to push the filter into place after the pan was already put in place - so it was a bit of a pain getting my hand in there to push the filter back in with the pan in the way.

I figured though that all of that was still easier that screwing around with the exhaust.

 

[George B]

When I did mine it turned into a major cluster F$%K with a seized exhaust stud nut. Next time I will try the filter drop or pry the exhaust trick.

 

[calsdad]

When I did mine it turned into a major cluster F$%K with a seized exhaust stud nut. Next time I will try the filter drop or pry the exhaust trick.

I should add that the method I used - of unbolting the rear transmission mount and jacking it up - didn't completely come without issues. When I unbolted the two mounting bolts - one of them ended up being stripped. It looked to me like it was because it was a steel bolt going into aluminum. I ended up getting two new bolts of the correct size from the local Fastenal (they had to order them) - and then I ran a tap thru both bolt holes in the aluminum mounting point on the transmission - and when I reinstalled the bolts I coated them with this marine compound that's supposed to reduce galvinic corrosion/galling like I found.

All of this was probably still easier than dealing with unbolting the exhaust. I was really trying to avoid running into the exact issue that you described.

 

[George B]

I should add that the method I used - of unbolting the rear transmission mount and jacking it up - didn't completely come without issues. When I unbolted the two mounting bolts - one of them ended up being stripped. It looked to me like it was because it was a steel bolt going into aluminum. I ended up getting two new bolts of the correct size from the local Fastenal (they had to order them) - and then I ran a tap thru both bolt holes in the aluminum mounting point on the transmission - and when I reinstalled the bolts I coated them with this marine compound that's supposed to reduce galvinic corrosion/galling like I found.

All of this was probably still easier than dealing with unbolting the exhaust. I was really trying to avoid running into the exact issue that you described.

I had my trans unbolted and lifted as well as the exhaust loose.