itsbo1313
Full Access Member
Yes, and I was excited to take the truck home. Didn't read it closely. Just perused it.
Warranty DEDUCTIBLE?!
- Thread starter ItstheHOFF
- Start date
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But, what I am getting at, did the salesman tell you it covered everything and then you did not read or did you just assume without reading?
itsbo1313
Full Access Member
Kinda, for example, he told me it covered brakes and after reading the contract it covers all the brakes parts except consumables.
So it would cover a leaking caliper but not the pads. That makes sense. Maybe not even the caliper leaking fluid. May only cover mounting brackets, cables, hoses and lines. May not cover any leaks at all since they could say it is your fault for not flushing the fluid every 2-3 years. Who knows.
So, you paid $2,600 for $2,400 of insurance. I’m sure that the insurer loved making that sale.
I have stupidly purchased a couple of extended warranty contracts, but never again. When I read the fine details on one of them, it said the warranty was void unless the transmission fluid was changed at least every 10,000 miles! I was past that mileage before I read it.
Yea, the warranty people greatly exceed the recommended maintenance intervals in the owner's manual. Even for the shorter time between maintenance "Severe Duty" recommendations.
CMoore711
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And these are the reasons I only opt for factory warranties and/or CPO warranties and follow owners manual for maintenance schedule.
After factory or CPO warranties repairs are on me, and having owned a few vehicles to 150K-200K+ miles I’m fine with that. Because even $2-$5K a year in maintenance/repairs is cheaper than a new truck payment.
It’s not hard to spread out the cost of repair/maintenance on higher mileage vehicles. Some years it’s only oil changes, some years it’s brakes and tires plus oil changes. Then you hit that year when it’s a front or rear differential and transmission rebuild plus oil changes and tires and that’s when you start looking for the replacement.
I’d rather set money aside for maintenance and repairs of owning a vehicle beyond 100K miles than throw money at “just in case” warranty coverage if and only if I meet the maintenance criteria they put in the fine print that exceeds the manufacturers owners manual recommendations. Sure there will be a small amount of exceptions, but generally at that point what kind of money are you really saving with an aftermarket extended warranty?
If I dropped $3-$4K on an aftermarket extended warranty only to find out according to the warranty language I should of had transmission fluid changes at $250 a pop every 10K miles, almost 5 times the factory recommendation intervals and because of that said warranty company wouldn’t replace my trans... Yeah **** that, I don’t have the time to play those games; therefore I’m not signing up to play.
After factory or CPO warranties repairs are on me, and having owned a few vehicles to 150K-200K+ miles I’m fine with that. Because even $2-$5K a year in maintenance/repairs is cheaper than a new truck payment.
It’s not hard to spread out the cost of repair/maintenance on higher mileage vehicles. Some years it’s only oil changes, some years it’s brakes and tires plus oil changes. Then you hit that year when it’s a front or rear differential and transmission rebuild plus oil changes and tires and that’s when you start looking for the replacement.
I’d rather set money aside for maintenance and repairs of owning a vehicle beyond 100K miles than throw money at “just in case” warranty coverage if and only if I meet the maintenance criteria they put in the fine print that exceeds the manufacturers owners manual recommendations. Sure there will be a small amount of exceptions, but generally at that point what kind of money are you really saving with an aftermarket extended warranty?
If I dropped $3-$4K on an aftermarket extended warranty only to find out according to the warranty language I should of had transmission fluid changes at $250 a pop every 10K miles, almost 5 times the factory recommendation intervals and because of that said warranty company wouldn’t replace my trans... Yeah **** that, I don’t have the time to play those games; therefore I’m not signing up to play.
Exactly why I have always said to start a savings account for any vehicle you buy and build that as the miles go along because that account should only be for maintenance and repairs.
You control it and I guarantee you that in a much higher % of the time, and this is why the insurance company does this-because the % is always in their favor, you will spend less than for the extended warranty and what it also does not cover that you thought it did. Sure, there are times where you break even or come out ahead but that is just the luck of the gamble that the extended warranty company will win way over 50% of the time.
petethepug
Michael
NOT a Warranty Deductible ... Most aftermarket warranty are Service Contracts (S/C).
CPO / Cert Pre Owned is a MUCH better way to have the factory/ dealer cover the truck.
The S/C deduct can hammer you. To avoid the pitfall, get $0 deduct or an option to have it waived if you bring it to the selling dealer. Yea, you’ve gotta have a decent local dealer that’s GM and / or willing to work on your truck after the sale.
With a S/C you’ve gotta have a copy of the contract to take home and study it. It should, as previously stated, MUST match MFG’rs maint sched’s.
The only way to ensure you don’t get hosed by a S/C is to have an GM Indy shop inspect your preowned truck (before purch) along w/ the S/C being offered. You’ll need the DLR for the initial repairs and the Indy after you surpass coverage past what you originally invested.
Only allow GM Oe or refurb parts. Demand them as a safety issue for wife/kids as any failure will cause a dangerous, uncontrollable breakdown of almost 3 tons at speed. If they don’t like the $1k alternator cost at the dealer, have them source and mail OE parts to dealer. It will embarrass the dealer for gouging you and earn you points w/the S/C admin dude.
If the dealership becomes too miserable to work with, then use the Indy garage. If the S/C begins skimping on using OE parts remind them you could go back to the dealer. They’ll cave on installing non OE parts to avoid the DLR’s labor/parts cost any day.
Lastly, every repair must be maximized. Plan oil, brake, fluid and gasket/seal replacement with an inspection of components that are accessible during disassembly. Rotors and pad change outs expose axle seal and piston leaks. This would mean the S/C has to pay to pull the axles and diff cover, replace every seal and refill the diff. The S/C just got stuck w/ ALL the cost of labor and you only paid for the pads. The same could occur with the front axles on a AWD/4WD truck.
CPO’s just fix your GM vehicle w/ OE parts period. The S/C on our 08 Yukon AWD covered almost 3x the initial S/C cost w/ DLR & Indy labor. Our $19k 1 owner 08 w/ 96k mi purch in ‘14. Obviously it didn’t qual for CPO. It paid for over $10k of stuff for a $2.5k cost. I had to be diligent, vigilant and occasionally communicate w/ scary words like contract breach, bad faith, gross neglect, knowingly dangerous and refusal to accept liability because the S/C knowingly installed substandard parts meant only to last until the contractual obligation ends. [emoji846]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
CPO / Cert Pre Owned is a MUCH better way to have the factory/ dealer cover the truck.
The S/C deduct can hammer you. To avoid the pitfall, get $0 deduct or an option to have it waived if you bring it to the selling dealer. Yea, you’ve gotta have a decent local dealer that’s GM and / or willing to work on your truck after the sale.
With a S/C you’ve gotta have a copy of the contract to take home and study it. It should, as previously stated, MUST match MFG’rs maint sched’s.
The only way to ensure you don’t get hosed by a S/C is to have an GM Indy shop inspect your preowned truck (before purch) along w/ the S/C being offered. You’ll need the DLR for the initial repairs and the Indy after you surpass coverage past what you originally invested.
Only allow GM Oe or refurb parts. Demand them as a safety issue for wife/kids as any failure will cause a dangerous, uncontrollable breakdown of almost 3 tons at speed. If they don’t like the $1k alternator cost at the dealer, have them source and mail OE parts to dealer. It will embarrass the dealer for gouging you and earn you points w/the S/C admin dude.
If the dealership becomes too miserable to work with, then use the Indy garage. If the S/C begins skimping on using OE parts remind them you could go back to the dealer. They’ll cave on installing non OE parts to avoid the DLR’s labor/parts cost any day.
Lastly, every repair must be maximized. Plan oil, brake, fluid and gasket/seal replacement with an inspection of components that are accessible during disassembly. Rotors and pad change outs expose axle seal and piston leaks. This would mean the S/C has to pay to pull the axles and diff cover, replace every seal and refill the diff. The S/C just got stuck w/ ALL the cost of labor and you only paid for the pads. The same could occur with the front axles on a AWD/4WD truck.
CPO’s just fix your GM vehicle w/ OE parts period. The S/C on our 08 Yukon AWD covered almost 3x the initial S/C cost w/ DLR & Indy labor. Our $19k 1 owner 08 w/ 96k mi purch in ‘14. Obviously it didn’t qual for CPO. It paid for over $10k of stuff for a $2.5k cost. I had to be diligent, vigilant and occasionally communicate w/ scary words like contract breach, bad faith, gross neglect, knowingly dangerous and refusal to accept liability because the S/C knowingly installed substandard parts meant only to last until the contractual obligation ends. [emoji846]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rdr854
Full Access Member
I purchased the Chevrolet-GM Extended Warranty and Maintenance contracts from my local dealership. I purchased the zero deductible. The maintenance contract is for the severe service at the 7,500 mile interval and covers certain consumables. The F&I guy went through the different options - including deductibles so that I could make my decision.
This reminds me of when I bought my house in a new subdivision and the neighbors complained that the builder misrepresented the situation regarding a junk yard hidden by trees. I pointed out that if they had listened carefully when he pointed out the junk yard, they would have realized that the developer had only requested that the county have the junk yard cleaned up, not that it was being cleaned up (which was all the developer could do). My neighbors assumed that he was saying that the junk yard would be gone right away. Unfortunately, it took about 10 years for that to happen.
I suspect that when people are buying a new car, there is a lot of excitement (and the dealer wants that). But it is a business transaction and the customer needs to listen carefully and read the documents carefully.
This reminds me of when I bought my house in a new subdivision and the neighbors complained that the builder misrepresented the situation regarding a junk yard hidden by trees. I pointed out that if they had listened carefully when he pointed out the junk yard, they would have realized that the developer had only requested that the county have the junk yard cleaned up, not that it was being cleaned up (which was all the developer could do). My neighbors assumed that he was saying that the junk yard would be gone right away. Unfortunately, it took about 10 years for that to happen.
I suspect that when people are buying a new car, there is a lot of excitement (and the dealer wants that). But it is a business transaction and the customer needs to listen carefully and read the documents carefully.
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