Water pump or not... that is my ?

[5strmtrp]

Driving to work at 2AM it’s snowing and I have heat.

About half way to work I notice it’s cooler in the truck, nope still have it cranked to Hates level.

Nearing the office, wisps of heat if I’m lucky.

Coolant level the same in the res tank, upper hose feels hot but it’s cold as shit outside. Bottom hose tepid.

Ohh n I’m still here at the office, Napa is a mile away...

Could it be t-stay?

The pump?

Blocked heater core?

 

[wsteele]

Was everything working well for like years?

If so, I would guess something electronic versus mechanical. Like one of the temp sensors (duct or cabin).

 

[Geotrash]

Radiator hose temps you're seeing are normal. How was the coolant temp on the gauge?

I that's normal and the coolant level is steady, you don't likely have air in the system or a leak. My guess would be the blend door actuator. Common issue.

If your coolant temp gauge reads low, then I would suspect the thermostat is sticking open.

 

[5strmtrp]

Thanks all, coolant temp guage in dash it dead middle 210ish degrees.

Im hearing the door change settings but it seems to me slow.

The hoses are warm hot on the top, like it should be, cool on the bottom.

I didn’t check the hoses going to the heater under the hood, will check when I get home tonight, see what they feel like.

 

[89Suburban]

Thanks all, coolant temp guage in dash it dead middle 210ish degrees.

Im hearing the door change settings but it seems to me slow.

The hoses are warm hot on the top, like it should be, cool on the bottom.

I didn’t check the hoses going to the heater under the hood, will check when I get home tonight, see what they feel like.

Hopefully it's something stupid brah.

 

[5strmtrp]

Hopefully it's something stupid brah.

Drove it home, temps never went over the norm mark, had heat, enough to keep the windshield from fogging and freezing up. Seems to be its normal self. I did notice after I pressure washed it and put the defroster on a that the Ac switch flashes when depressed and will Not stay on. No matter where I set the dials.

From what I can tell is that it’s not the water pump or t-stat. Either it’s a blocking heater core or the door.

 

[gooffeyguy]

If it's below a certain temperature outside the AC light will do that. Basically a protection mode for the AC system.

Does the rear heat work ok?

I had this problem on my 2001 a couple years ago and thought it was a blend door actuator acting up. It wasn't. I back flushed the heater core and that fixed it.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[5strmtrp]

If it's below a certain temperature outside the AC light will do that. Basically a protection mode for the AC system.

Does the rear heat work ok?

I had this problem on my 2001 a couple years ago and thought it was a blend door actuator acting up. It wasn't. I back flushed the heater core and that fixed it.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Yup the back heat works as well.
When I bought this truck from Chicago Motors the rear heat wasn’t in the options list.

I had no idea I had it for the 1st few days until I noticed a button that said rear. I thought it was to lock out the rear doors or release the rear glass.

So flushing the system, gather its different that what I used to do on my pickemuptruk. Reason being the rear system?

 

[gooffeyguy]

Yup the back heat works as well.
When I bought this truck from Chicago Motors the rear heat wasn’t in the options list.

I had no idea I had it for the 1st few days until I noticed a button that said rear. I thought it was to lock out the rear doors or release the rear glass.

So flushing the system, gather its different that what I used to do on my pickemuptruk. Reason being the rear system?

Not really. Disconnect those plastic factory quick disconnect T's from the heater core inlet/outlet ports at the firewall and do the back flush as usual.

If the truck has some miles on it, I'd just buy new OE disconnect T's and replace them while they're off. They're known to get brittle, crack, and start spewing coolant at the most inconvenient time.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Geotrash]

Not really. Disconnect those plastic factory quick disconnect T's from the heater core inlet/outlet ports at the firewall and do the back flush as usual.

If the truck has some miles on it, I'd just buy new OE disconnect T's and replace them while they're off. They're known to get brittle, crack, and start spewing coolant at the most inconvenient time.

Good advice. If you do that OP, definitely buy OEM tees or get the billet ones from gruvenparts.com. I used the Dorman OEM-style plastic ones once and they lasted barely a year. Don't forget to replace the plastic tee down by the water pump too - and for that one Dorman sells a metal version that comes with the hoses and is superior to factory.