Weird Transmission Problem

[JJ93]

Just how bad is all the rust? When something is paid off and you shared the list of all you have put in it. IMO, that doesn't mean it is time to throw in the towel on this rig. Look at all the way newer rigs on here that have problems worse than this.

Just an update - I drove it today and for the first 30 seconds it did not want to shift past 2nd gear. It just held on to 2nd, like it wasn't receiving the signal to shift into 3rd. No slips. After getting on the gas pretty hard to merge into traffic, it shifted into 3rd and 4th like nothing ever happened, and has been driving great all day. Even kicking down to merge onto the interstate produces no issues whatsoever. The only thing I can think of is that it happens more when the overnight temps drop below 0 like it did the past few nights. I added just a little bit of Lucas stop slip into the transmission today just to see what happens. The trans fluid level is perfect. I am hoping it is just a solenoid going bad or a sticky valve in the valve body.

The rust has eaten away a lot of the back left quarter panel and the rockers. My original plan was to cut out the rust and weld in some new panels, grind off the rust bubbles along the bottom, and put some sort of rust proofing and bedliner across the very bottom all around. Nothing crazy, just enough to get a few more years out of it. The frame is super solid though, I figure any body rust could be fixed. I have fixed worse, that's for sure!



That's the thing, other than what the transmission is doing right now it is a super solid truck that drives great. That said, I am just going to put some money into it to keep it rolling dependably. This spring I will be fixing the rust as well as replacing the fuel pump just so I know it's good. I want it to last a good long while for me, especially since this is my only vehicle and I do a lot of long-distance driving.

 

[OR VietVet]

I have seen people here swear by this trans additive.

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Blend-...le+trans+fluid+additive&qid=1582240176&sr=8-3


If you like the vehicle, keep the vehicle. It is paid for and meets your needs and you are very happy with it when you have no problems. Unless it gets to be just too much to handle, fix it and drive knowing that you know this rig.

 

[JJ93]

I'll check that out. I didn't put much more than a cup or two of Lucas in it just to try it out. I also did some research and it seems like a lot of people have issues with their 4l60e's holding onto second for a bit longer than normal when it is extremely cold outside, some have had the issue since they bought the truck new. So I think I just won't worry about it. This is my first winter with the truck, and it is the truck's first REAL winter with sub 0 temps.

Thanks for the advice

 

[JJ93]

Update - Temps were a bit warmer today (almost 40) and the transmission shifted perfect all day. I am thinking it was holding on to 2nd longer when it was below 0 to warm things up more, I don't know. I'll just chalk it up to that since it isn't having any more problems.

I noticed that when it did decide to hold on to 2nd, it would shift once the rpms got to about 2500 or so. No slips or anything, it is like the truck decided to not command 3rd gear until a higher rpm because of how cold it was.

Time will tell. I'll let you all know if it decides to act up again, maybe a pattern will emerge lol

 

[rockola1971]

If I were in your shoes I would take it to the tranny shop and have them do all the updates on the valve body which will fix your problem. Its also possible you have a check ball that has hammered its seat in the valve body separator plate. Both can be dealt with during a valve body overhaul and update. Make sure to tell them that you want to see whats in your pan. Dont take their word on whats laying in the pan.

 

[OR VietVet]

Man, I wish I knew the inner workings of transmissions better than I do.

 

[rockola1971]

Man, I wish I knew the inner workings of transmissions better than I do.

You dont need to know...just send me a PM or post the question to your 4LXXE problem on here and ill see it.

 

[JJ93]

If I were in your shoes I would take it to the tranny shop and have them do all the updates on the valve body which will fix your problem. Its also possible you have a check ball that has hammered its seat in the valve body separator plate. Both can be dealt with during a valve body overhaul and update. Make sure to tell them that you want to see whats in your pan. Dont take their word on whats laying in the pan.

Hmm. I might get some quotes. If it is reasonable I might get it taken care of soon. I had the pan off a week ago and found nothing laying in it. The magnet was pretty clean, no pieces of metal or anything like that. Fluid had no metal flakes. Honestly I would assume it is still a healthy transmission just based on dropping the pan. If they try to pull something I would call BS on them right then and there.

Could I just buy a new valve body or an upgrade kit and do it myself? I have worked in a garage before, rebuilt engines, done a few trans rebuilds (Dodge.. need I say more lol). I am no stranger to getting my hands dirty. I would just hate to drop the money and time on replacing the valve body if it doesn't need it. Idk. It has been driving absolutely perfect for me for the past few days, but I guess something sticking (or worn out) in the valve body would make sense.

Thoughts? Should I just buy a new/reman valve body along with whatever else that job requires, or just bring it in and chance them telling me I need my transmission rebuilt (which I really cannot afford at the moment)?

 

[OR VietVet]

Hmm. I might get some quotes. If it is reasonable I might get it taken care of soon. I had the pan off a week ago and found nothing laying in it. The magnet was pretty clean, no pieces of metal or anything like that. Fluid had no metal flakes. Honestly I would assume it is still a healthy transmission just based on dropping the pan. If they try to pull something I would call BS on them right then and there.

Could I just buy a new valve body or an upgrade kit and do it myself? I have worked in a garage before, rebuilt engines, done a few trans rebuilds (Dodge.. need I say more lol). I am no stranger to getting my hands dirty. I would just hate to drop the money and time on replacing the valve body if it doesn't need it. Idk. It has been driving absolutely perfect for me for the past few days, but I guess something sticking (or worn out) in the valve body would make sense.

Thoughts? Should I just buy a new/reman valve body along with whatever else that job requires, or just bring it in and chance them telling me I need my transmission rebuilt (which I really cannot afford at the moment)?

Always like to see the "Not afraid to get their hands dirty" crowd.

 

[JJ93]

Always like to see the "Not afraid to get their hands dirty" crowd.

That's me haha. My dad taught me how to work on my first car, and I have enjoyed working on cars ever since. Plus it saves some cash for upgrades!

Also, I just read an ancient forum post from 2005 back when these trucks were still pretty new, (https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/37370-cold-weather-auto-tranny-shifting/). They mention that the delayed cold shift might be normal, but after scanning through this site I haven't come across many others with the same issue. 99% of the time that the delayed 2-3 shift occurs, it is below 20 degrees or so outside. It happened one time after a car wash while on a long road trip, but that could have been a coincidence.

I'll consider my options and keep you guys posted. Might just drive it for a while to see what happens.