Went to the track

[R3cord303]

Tuned for 91. 342 gears.

I hope I can crack 300 at the wheels after the cam and ported 243 heads I will be installing here soon .

View attachment 230943

Can 3.42 vs 3.73 cause that large of a whp difference? You have headers and a full exhaust with the same cam as me. I've only got the cam and a cat delete as far as performance mods...

 

[gooffeyguy]

Gears won't change/add/remove HP

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[JDopirak]

Choose your parts carefully. When I had my speed shop, I spent most of my time taking things off customer's cars to make them faster. Some things simply didn't work, often it was a wrong combination of parts and more often than not, the parts chosen were too big and slowed them down.

You have a lot more done to your ride than I do mine and that sets off my alarms that something may not be right. Track location and temperature are very important as is the condition, compression of your engine and the combination of parts you've installed. My thinking is that she should run faster but we're not at the same track. @badandyturbo ran his with mine one night and he had at the time, Amazon long tube headers and a tune and maybe a CAI, don't remember now but he has a thread on here. Anyhow, I'm pretty sure he ran in the mid 15s at around 91 mph with his Tahoe. I do remember that when doing the math, his was putting down 320 RWHP through the traps that night.

Your %100 right which is why I'm trying my hardest to do some research before I buy stuff. I know a guy who just slaps all kinds of random stuff at his car and wonders why it doesnt run like he thought it should.

And I agree I really really thought it would be in the 15s the truck feels great so I was shocked when it wa so slow. But I did everything right. The only thing I can think is the trans is holding me back I've always thought the trans felt weird it got "tight" as the night went on even after I let it sit and cool down for 30 min. It just didnt want to move as quickly. The max temp was 185ish with my trans cooler.

I took it to two trans shops and they both said it's a perfectly fine running 6l80e thst they are just clunky in general in these types of trucks and the 2-3 odd shift is normal especially in the earlier years like mine. I had a friend who owns a 2010 tahoe drive it and he said it feels better than his trans. So I guess it's in my head.

 

[JDopirak]

Can 3.42 vs 3.73 cause that large of a whp difference? You have headers and a full exhaust with the same cam as me. I've only got the cam and a cat delete as far as performance mods...

Sorry for the confusion. I currently only have intake,shorty headers,muffler,resonator delete and a tune. And it made 268 hp.

I'm installing the cam and porting heads over the next two months.

 

[swathdiver]

Your %100 right which is why I'm trying my hardest to do some research before I buy stuff. I know a guy who just slaps all kinds of random stuff at his car and wonders why it doesnt run like he thought it should.

And I agree I really really thought it would be in the 15s the truck feels great so I was shocked when it wa so slow. But I did everything right. The only thing I can think is the trans is holding me back I've always thought the trans felt weird it got "tight" as the night went on even after I let it sit and cool down for 30 min. It just didnt want to move as quickly. The max temp was 185ish with my trans cooler.

I took it to two trans shops and they both said it's a perfectly fine running 6l80e thst they are just clunky in general in these types of trucks and the 2-3 odd shift is normal especially in the earlier years like mine. I had a friend who owns a 2010 tahoe drive it and he said it feels better than his trans. So I guess it's in my head.

I thought mine would have been a little faster too. Some of the magazine reviews had the same or similar setup running the same or a little faster. In my case, I chalk that up to the All-Terrain tires sticking to the track like flypaper. My transmission temps rose as well as one might expect. At first I just shut the truck off but the temps were still similar to yours after 45-60 minutes. Next time around I idled the truck to bring the temps down and also commanded the fans to run on high which worked more quickly.

When your truck was tuned, did they also do the transmission? What Justin did for transmission performance is my favorite part of the tune.

Forgive me here if I'm preaching to the choir. When modifying any vehicle, it's vitally important to do a baseline series of runs in stock configuration and then do ONE modification at a time and test it. It's a great temptation to do more because of the time and cost involved in heading to the track or scheduling dyno time. This can be even more frustrating when their are problems at the track that limit runs or affect your ability to make consistent passes. But it must be done to identify the stuff that doesn't work.

When the Hoosier drag radials first came out, I had to have a pair. Picked up a set of spare wheels and mounted these new tires to them. The car felt great on launches, even snatching the left front tire off the ground. The ETs came down but because of the rollout of the tire, MPH was lost and therefore horsepower to the pavement. They were smaller and should have been the same, 5 inches of rollout difference from my skinnier tires. I left them on though for street racing and put a 9" converter in the car next. Again, the car felt great and got more air under that tire at launch but she went even slower! Dropped the transmission and put my old converter back in and the drag times were restored. I used that information to have my factory converter modified for just another 300 rpms of stall speed, not 500-800 like EVERYBODY else was suggesting. Then the new BFG Radial T/As came out (same tire as today) and I put those on in the same size I was using previously and went even faster. I could get a faster 60-foot with a 235-60-15 Radial T/A versus the Hoosier's 275-50-15!

I've never driven or raced my truck with the original tires on it, it has always had all-terrains since purchase. Reckon I should put a tape measure to the spare and compare that to the KO2s and see what the actual rollout on both are. The truck was tuned specifically for the OE tires.

I'm excited to see how your heads and camshaft will work, I would like to do those mods to mine someday too.

Oh, what fuel were you running? My runs were on E85. I think next time it will be on gasoline just to see the difference.

 

[R3cord303]

Sorry for the confusion. I currently only have intake,shorty headers,muffler,resonator delete and a tune. And it made 268 hp.

I'm installing the cam and porting heads over the next two months.

ahhhh got it. Thank you

 

[JDopirak]

ahhhh got it. Thank you

So I have to ask how is it daily driving with the cam?

Is it choppy?
I can find videos online but it's all 112lsa or 111lsa.

Also did you do a stall converter to go along with the cam?

 

[Mickey_7106]

i had a Circle D 2800 stall on my C5 and loved it! i took a lil time to get used to on the street. Hills were a challenge from a stop or low speeds at times mostly from the person behind me being too close but after a while you calibrate your foot to compensate.

im planning on doing an AFM delete kit and will definitely work with Circle D again.

Looks like your slightly faster than me. I'm now trying to research a stall converter. I contacted circle d and they suggested 2600-2800 stall. I have never owned a car or truck with one so I have no idea how that will effect daily driving and towing if at all. This is *********** quickly.

 

[R3cord303]

So I have to ask how is it daily driving with the cam?

Is it choppy?
I can find videos online but it's all 112lsa or 111lsa.

Also did you do a stall converter to go along with the cam?

Daily driving is fine as long as you’re tuned well. I had to drive around all day after it was installed to burn out all the 87 so it could be tuned for 91.

When you’re idling in park it does chop a fair bit and will rock the vehicle back and fourth.

Right now I’m chasing an issue with idle, if you let it idle long enough the computer will think its missfiring and turn off stabilitrack until you put it in gear. Several things can fix that based on what I’ve read- bigger gap in spark plugs, or dialing in the tune a little more.

And for the stage 1 and stage 2 cams you don’t need a high stall converter. Texas Speed says for stage 3 you do.

Overall, 10/10 for the cam.

Edit for clarity- no I did not do a high stall converter. Only things done to the tranny are a shift kit and a vette servo and maybe a sunshell? It was rebuilt when the vehicle was at 130k. I bought it at 216k.

 

[swathdiver]

Daily driving is fine as long as you’re tuned well. I had to drive around all day after it was installed to burn out all the 87 so it could be tuned for 91.

When you’re idling in park it does chop a fair bit and will rock the vehicle back and fourth.

Right now I’m chasing an issue with idle, if you let it idle long enough the computer will think its missfiring and turn off stabilitrack until you put it in gear. Several things can fix that based on what I’ve read- bigger gap in spark plugs, or dialing in the tune a little more.

And for the stage 1 and stage 2 cams you don’t need a high stall converter. Texas Speed says for stage 3 you do.

Overall, 10/10 for the cam.

Edit for clarity- no I did not do a high stall converter. Only things done to the tranny are a shift kit and a vette servo and maybe a sunshell? It was rebuilt when the vehicle was at 130k. I bought it at 216k.

Did you ever run it at a drag strip Allen?