What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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TheAutumnWind

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I noticed a day and night difference when I did the NNBS brake upgrade, it could also be that I have the hydro boost set it.
I did not notice a huge difference in day to day driving when I did mine. I have hydroboost. My existing brakes were in good shape though outside of pads being a little worn down.

I think a lot of guys that notice a big difference had issues with their existing setup such as old fluid in the lines or some such deal.

That being said when you are really working the brakes there is a difference. Less fade, and more bite.
 

Sam Harris

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I did not notice a huge difference in day to day driving when I did mine. I have hydroboost. My existing brakes were in good shape though outside of pads being a little worn down.

I think a lot of guys that notice a big difference had issues with their existing setup such as old fluid in the lines or some such deal.

That being said when you are really working the brakes there is a difference. Less fade, and more bite.
Agree. I definitely feel a bigger difference in any hard braking, or braking from higher speeds. I also changed all fluid and all stainless lines -other than the problematic center rear line.. [emoji35]

ETA: For clarity: I also replaced the rotors and pads with the Powerstop Z36 kit. I liked the Powerstop ceramic/ carbon pads I tried on my stock brakes, so went with those and their rotors.
 
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Sam Harris

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That truck is super clean! Um, how did you get more than 5 pictures in a single post?
Thanks man! Much appreciated! I can post 9 in one post. Then if you go edit it, you can add up to 9 more. Not sure why you’re limited to 5. Weak. I use Tapatalk for my phone 99.9% of the time. Rarely on the PC to peruse the forum.
 

Dantheman1540

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Thanks man! Much appreciated! I can post 9 in one post. Then if you go edit it, you can add up to 9 more. Not sure why you’re limited to 5. Weak. I use Tapatalk for my phone 99.9% of the time. Rarely on the PC to peruse the forum.

IDK what tapatalk is maybe my phone is too old lol. Your truck looks seriously good, don't see many red Tahoes done right.
 

GJones

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Cracked 200k as well as going over all my audio wires, adding ferrules and heat shrink to clean things up. Gotta finish them up at some point. Also need to build the amp rack table. 2f1ae50eba8c2f3e15be329307e5e24f.jpg
1ffda13fc0d9812d6d570bcd3413d673.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Doubeleive

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Replaced both batteries today. I had added the TP2 factory dual battery configuration several years ago, partly because it has always gone through batteries pretty fast, and partly because I wanted the second battery for the inverter. It started fine leaving work yesterday, but I stopped at the store on the way home and it wouldn't start when I came back out. The isolation solenoid is supposed to connect the aux battery when you turn the key on, but only if the main battery has enough juice to energize it. I had made a special harness to plug into the solenoid for that scenario so I could jump start myself, but that didn't work either, so I had to get it jump started from another car. After I got home, I put my meter on both batteries, 8 volts on the main and 4 volts on the aux. With the engine on I was reading around 13-14 volts, so pretty sure the alternator is fine. Anyway, I put in two new AGM's, hopefully they will handle the Tahoe's electrical system better than the standard lead-acids I've had in the past.

I guess the aux battery had gone bad recently, and I just hadn't noticed any problems, but when the main died too I was stuck without the ability to jump start myself. I have put up with the variable voltage regulator control cooking batteries since it was new. I think I heard that there was a software fix for this on the GMT900s, but I have never seen one for the GMT800s.

For those who don't believe without pics...

View attachment 259215 View attachment 259216
you might try grounding both batteries to the one post that feeds to the RVC module, that may or may not help but mine seems to work better that way, I had a 7' ground cable made and ran it from one battery to the other along the firewall 7' was the exact length needed.
 

TheAutumnWind

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Agree. I definitely feel a bigger difference in any hard braking, or braking from higher speeds. I also changed all fluid and all stainless lines -other than the problematic center rear line.. [emoji35]

ETA: For clarity: I also replaced the rotors and pads with the Powerstop Z36 kit. I liked the Powerstop ceramic/ carbon pads I tried on my stock brakes, so went with those and their rotors.
I have SS lines front and rear, but didn't get to the middle lines yet...

I have SSBC rotors and Z36 carbon fiber ceramic pads.
 

DougAMiller

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you might try grounding both batteries to the one post that feeds to the RVC module, that may or may not help but mine seems to work better that way, I had a 7' ground cable made and ran it from one battery to the other along the firewall 7' was the exact length needed.
Thanks, I'll check into that. I set mine up to factory specs, if I remember correctly the aux battery ground was to the back of the block. I seem to remember it being a real ***** to get to.
 

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