What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Logan5

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First time is a learning experience and takes longer. And the second time around everything's been apart already, and what's going to break has broken. ;)
Exactly. I already rehabed the tank straps nuts and bolts, and all the hose connections were cleaned from the first time, and I even remembered how to get my arm up inside the frame to squeeze a disconnect.
 

MassHoe04

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Last Saturday was a starter replacement.

Monday, the airbag light flashed and stayed on after start-up.
Service Airbag massage on the DIC.

B0100 was the code.
Left front airbag impact sensor performance.

I had rewards points at NAPA and they were running the "Bucket Sale", where you get 20% off your order when you buy three or more items online (or buy a bucket in the store for $5 I think?). I bought the impact sensor and 2 cans of BrakeKleen. You can never have enough BrakeKleen, right?

Originally, the sensor was $166.99.
With rewards and the discount, the impact sensor was $100.19.
I got $66.80 off.

Since it was in stock and the price was pretty good, I ordered from the local shop.

About 15 minutes to swap it out. Pretty easy!
I didn't remove the plastic splash guard or any other parts.
You can reach right in there and get a 10mm ratchet box wrench on the bolt.

Light immediately cleared and good to go.

Here was the old part and the NAPA replacement part for the '04 Tahoe...
20220416_082315.jpg
20220416_082401.jpg
 

mattbta

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Exactly. I already rehabed the tank straps nuts and bolts, and all the hose connections were cleaned from the first time, and I even remembered how to get my arm up inside the frame to squeeze a disconnect.
This one had me flummoxed for a while - the one still connected in the picture. I used my Lisle tool that worked on the filter and the lines to the rail but it didn't seem to work. Gave it a couple days of thought and some helpful chats with @Fless who presented another possibility - to remove those lines from the tank and leave them on the body. He also requested pics of the lines to help future TYF folks. After taking a picture, I pressed on the line and heard a click. Damnit, just needed a firmer tug...lol. Was able to disconnect it successfully.

IMG_20220416_154716.jpg
 

Logan5

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This one had me flummoxed for a while - the one still connected in the picture. I used my Lisle tool that worked on the filter and the lines to the rail but it didn't seem to work. Gave it a couple days of thought and some helpful chats with @Fless who presented another possibility - to remove those lines from the tank and leave them on the body. He also requested pics of the lines to help future TYF folks. After taking a picture, I pressed on the line and heard a click. Damnit, just needed a firmer tug...lol. Was able to disconnect it successfully.

View attachment 368376

Those connections at the front of the tank are the snarky ones. I had all the hoses at the rear disconnected and the tank fully supported by the jack at this point. I was able to shift the tank around some to get clearance as well as take any tension off the connector.

Also I noticed your spare tire was still up in that one pic. When I did mine I took out the spare and had the back end up high enough to sit on the ground while being up in the spare tire cavity. That made disconnecting the rear hoses a breeze.
 

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