What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Monz11

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Finally diagnosed wiring harness connector for passenger headlight. Installed hid los, with new morimoto projectors and leds hi, in Spyder headkights. Thanks to TRS. (I didn't want to spend the 1k in new headlamps)!!
Installing bumper and wheel well liners tomorrow and packing up truck. I sprayed DEI Boom Mat sound adhesive on front inner wheel wheels and topside of liners, for sound barrier.
I also removed all of the 3rd row seat lockdown clamps and bolts. I may cut a sheet of 1/4" ply, adhere a waterproof padded sound barrier to even out the divets, where old seats attached, and lay new carpet. Has anyone done this, with the old cutout areas?
 

S33k3r

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Finally diagnosed wiring harness connector for passenger headlight. Installed hid los, with new morimoto projectors and leds hi, in Spyder headkights. Thanks to TRS. (I didn't want to spend the 1k in new headlamps)!!

May I ask who TRS is?

Installing bumper and wheel well liners tomorrow and packing up truck. I sprayed DEI Boom Mat sound adhesive on front inner wheel wheels and topside of liners, for sound barrier.

May I ask where you got your liners? My new-to-me truck needs at least the passenger side, front replaced. I think it is held on/together by 3 zip ties right now. It works, but it bugs me.

I also removed all of the 3rd row seat lockdown clamps and bolts. I may cut a sheet of 1/4" ply, adhere a waterproof padded sound barrier to even out the divets, where old seats attached, and lay new carpet. Has anyone done this, with the old cutout areas?

I haven't tried that, but I am going to add in spacers to my backseats in my Crew Cab. I want to raise them like 3/4" or 1" to increase storage area slightly.
 

iamdub

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Finally diagnosed wiring harness connector for passenger headlight. Installed hid los, with new morimoto projectors and leds hi, in Spyder headkights. Thanks to TRS. (I didn't want to spend the 1k in new headlamps)!!
Installing bumper and wheel well liners tomorrow and packing up truck. I sprayed DEI Boom Mat sound adhesive on front inner wheel wheels and topside of liners, for sound barrier.
I also removed all of the 3rd row seat lockdown clamps and bolts. I may cut a sheet of 1/4" ply, adhere a waterproof padded sound barrier to even out the divets, where old seats attached, and lay new carpet. Has anyone done this, with the old cutout areas?


Oooooh. Great idea with insulating the wells and liners!

I haven't done it to mine (yet?), but I've lined the bottom side of an 1/8" thick piece of masonite (was free from a past job) with 1/4" thick foam rubber (neoprene sponge foam?) to insulate as well as contour to the floor. Then covered the top with black automotive-grade carpeting. The masonite was split in half. The carpet on top kept it together and acted like a hinge, so it could be folded up for easy installation, removal and storage. It was shaped to follow the side trim very tightly. Between that and the foam squashing down into the pits where the seat mounts were, it couldn't slide anywhere.

It was basically the exact same as what's in the trunk of a lot of cars where you flip up the floor to access the spare tire. But with a full foam liner underneath.
 

Monz11

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May I ask who TRS is?



May I ask where you got your liners? My new-to-me truck needs at least the passenger side, front replaced. I think it is held on/together by 3 zip ties right now. It works, but it bugs me.



I haven't tried that, but I am going to add in spacers to my backseats in my Crew Cab. I want to raise them like 3/4" or 1" to increase storage area slightly.
TRS, theretrofitsource.com they do lighting upgrades, wiring harnesses, etc


I bought the liners on Ebay, over the holiday sales $50/pair
 

strutaeng

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And by chance, I went to pick up some grimey 317 heads for the engine I'm building. And of course, it had broken bolts, 2 with threads sticking out and 3 broken flush. A little patience and some electron arcs, and everything was removed. Will drop off the heads at the machine shop for cleanup, inspection, whatever else they need.
Got the crusty heads back from the machine shop. They cleaned them, did a valve job, milled them, and replaced the valve stem seals: $350. Not bad.
 

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Sam Harris

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Drove it. Had to swing by the orifice to do some yearend work, then got my ears lowered and ran some other errands. Topped off with E85 on the way home 'cause it's close to work. Last time it got mostly gas so the alcohol content was down to 51%, but this should bring it up a bit. The station I use is very consistent at 70% alcohol at the pump. Nice price differential:

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Man, do I miss my corn gas.. I filled up in Dallas while picking up my J / Y trans for the Civic, but wasn’t enough to make much difference. And it was still $2.69 / gal here.. premium (93 octane) is usually $3.29.. ridiculous.
 

strutaeng

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Today I was messing with HP Tuners on my 99 Silverado NBS. I did a V6 to L59 swap like 3 years ago. My ECU came from a 2000 Silverado from the junkyard and was reflashed for my Vin and a 4L80e I also swapped from some guy I found on OfferUp.

Anyways, the truck always ran a bit lean (edit: meant "rich") because the L59 has those flex fuel injectors and have a higher flow rate, but truck still ran okay at like -10% LTFT, within ECU control.

Today I finally decided to tackle it myself. Just changed the flow rate from 24 lb/hr to 33 lb/hr. It was rather easy. Took it for a spin and fuel trims look pretty normal.

Side note: it appears that the tunes with return style setups have a constant flow rate vs MAP values, whereas the later tunes (still GMT 800 Gen III) vary the flow-rate vs MAP values in a somewhat linear relationship.

You can see on this video on the GTO he adjusted.

 

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ncalvo

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Last spring I put LED reverse lights in, super bright very pleased.
Then the other day when I hit the unlock button on my keys, it usually lights up all the lights including reverse lights, one side was lit the other side not.
The next day I hit the unlock button and both were out. Then the next day both were on like normal. It has been a few days of them being on or off randomly responding, I replaced them with identical new LED lights thinking it would fix it, now they are both off even when the truck is in reverse, fuses are good too.
I popped in a regular bulb to see if I need to wire a new socket there and it lights up in reverse but not when I hit the unlock button.
Very interesting. Looks like I will run the regular bulbs again until I figure out where the issue is.
 

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