What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[inmypassatlife]

Price dif on gas..... f'd up..... in a year..

In Texas we got down to $1.79 then new school year and got up to $2.09, finally came down to $1.94 and then hurricane hit. I haven't left the house since it started raining bit went up to $2.19 in some parts.

 

[Chubbs]

Night shot...

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I thought it was pretty homo when you said that you painted your TC.

Then I remembered that your truck ain't junk like mine. Then... I saw the pic. And that $hit looks tite SON

 

[Chubbs]

I may have mentioned a time or 2 that I have found ZERO signs of any maintenance/maintenance items replacement on my new-2-me yukon 4x4.

Well it's had a braking vibration since I bought it so, naturally I assume the original brakes need replacing. Well, somebody threw cheap pads on it & didn't resurface the rotors. Half-a$$ job if I've ever seen one. had it been done properly to begin with, I would be $120 richer today but such is my luck. The brake pads look like they have 500 miles on them, while the crusty/rusted rotors may as well be from 1960 by all appearances.

 

[Tonyrodz]

I may have mentioned a time or 2 that I have found ZERO signs of any maintenance/maintenance items replacement on my new-2-me yukon 4x4.

Well it's had a braking vibration since I bought it so, naturally I assume the original brakes need replacing. Well, somebody threw cheap pads on it & didn't resurface the rotors. Half-a$$ job if I've ever seen one. had it been done properly to begin with, I would be $120 richer today but such is my luck. The brake pads look like they have 500 miles on them, while the crusty/rusted rotors may as well be from 1960 by all appearances.

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I've seen much, much worse. Get new rotors or did you resurface yours?

 

[Chubbs]

So here you can see the tools of the trade for removing those pesky caliper torx bolts.
Or not..

And the broken wheel stud that I inherited; probably screwed up the original wheel hub in the process of replacing the stud. It didn't spin the same as before the hammering & torquing. FML will see what happens.

Didn't want to chance a bunch of labor getting the rotors in for a resurface only to be told they are short on material so I went all-in as to be finished with it in 1-go.

And then the wheel lugs were so tight that I snapped my 3/8 to 1/2 adapter. How many times has this happened? Impact-grade junk, another minor setback. As you can see from my wheel design, not a whole lot of options for getting to the lugs. Just using what I've got..

I will have to jump in it, burnish the pads and see if the braking vibes issue is resolved.
Update: the braking is smooth & no longer experiencing any shudder or "pulsating"
Braking vibration is 1 thing I cannot tolerate as you can tell by the 1/2" thick brake pads I just tossed into the garbage. It was all due to neglecting the resurface or outright replacement of the rotors when the pads were replaced.

 

[inmypassatlife]

Installed two 52mm gauges in the clock bezel after cutting out some 1/4'' ABS plastic. I used Q-bond to glue it all together... I'm probably going to redo it since I rushed it and the gauges aren't at the same height

Also need to find my 4 gang clip panel to mount all the rocker switches below the 52mm gauges

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Cool, looks like a Picasso masterpiece

 

[Chubbs]

I've seen much, much worse. Get new rotors or did you resurface yours?

I will take the original rotors in & find out if they can do anything with them. The big box parts store uses a lower number for discard than cited in the Chiltons w/s manual. If they pass, Maybe that will also apply to the rear rotors and they will also meet the threshold for resurface & I can save some cash there. But like the tech at Oreilly told me, it costs $20 to resurface a 6-lug rotor but a brand new 1 goes for $35. I tried a cheap rotor about 10-years ago and my car shook like a B*^*^ on the initial test drive. I took it back, traded for a more expensive unit and that did the trick. The salesperson said cheap rotors aren't built like that anymore & I shouldn't have any problems. I'm still skeptical. Scared to find out really; why I'm watching TV instead of burnishing the pads right now.

 

[Chubbs]

I've seen much, much worse.

I honestly haven't. Not personally, down here in TX. No rust ever, on anything. I found material like an old reg' tag that said the p/o was from CO so that's where it came from. I still can't believe somebody replaced the pads and not so much as did a resurface on the rotors. That is incomprehensible to me. The 2 tabs that hold the rotors @ Assy-line had obviously never been touched and there were cobwebs & brake dust on inside of caliper bracket so it doesn't take a genious to deduce the orig pads were swapped with new & nothing else. How lame can you get? She prob paid a garage $500 for that hack job.

 

[PG01]

I pad slap all the time........common practice

 

[Tonyrodz]

I will take the original rotors in & find out if they can do anything with them. The big box parts store uses a lower number for discard than cited in the Chiltons w/s manual. If they pass, Maybe that will also apply to the rear rotors and they will also meet the threshold for resurface & I can save some cash there. But like the tech at Oreilly told me, it costs $20 to resurface a 6-lug rotor but a brand new 1 goes for $35. I tried a cheap rotor about 10-years ago and my car shook like a B*^*^ on the initial test drive. I took it back, traded for a more expensive unit and that did the trick. The salesperson said cheap rotors aren't built like that anymore & I shouldn't have any problems. I'm still skeptical. Scared to find out really; why I'm watching TV instead of burnishing the pads right now.

I prefer OEM rotors myself, but I can't find anyone in my area who even cuts them anymore, being that they're so cheap to replace today. Aftermarket doesn't use the same metal and are looser on their QC, Imo.