What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Bombsquad85]

For tierods, you can't beat Kryptonite. For UCAs you just need to ensure you get the highest quality replacement, either OEM or MOOG problem solver IMO.

For ride quality, if you haven't done the free travel mod I'd do that and ensure nothing is limiting suspension travel front or rear. Or if you want the ultimate ride quality I'd say go coilovers in the front.

https://kryptoniteproducts.com/coll...oducts/kryptonite-death-grip-tie-rods-1-2-ton

Thanks I'll look into those tie rods. As for the UCA I have I think either AC delco professional (gm replacemnt) or moog problem solvers. And each one has a blown boot.

The free travel mod is done, and actually the rear isn't the problem. The front feels like everything is solid, so each bump I hit jolts the whole truck, and it's not solid in the great handling aspect either.

Also for reference I'm running 20s. So uts not from a thin sidewall on the tires.

Side note. What's the best way to keep the boots from tearing? That seems to be my biggest issue.

 

[Rocket Man]

Thanks I'll look into those tie rods. As for the UCA I have I think either AC delco professional (gm replacemnt) or moog problem solvers. And each one has a blown boot.

The free travel mod is done, and actually the rear isn't the problem. The front feels like everything is solid, so each bump I hit jolts the whole truck, and it's not solid in the great handling aspect either.

Also for reference I'm running 20s. So uts not from a thin sidewall on the tires.

Side note. What's the best way to keep the boots from tearing? That seems to be my biggest issue.

I installed the Moog Problem Solver tie rods, upper control arms and lower ball joints on my 02 4 years and 30k miles ago and everything is still tight. I ran 26’s for at least a year. The Pitman arm was AC Delco Professional and idler arm and bracket were Moog. You have to make sure the Moog parts are the CK numbers not the RK which are their low grade line. AC Delco Professional parts should last as well. Nit sure why yours aren’t lasting.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Thanks I'll look into those tie rods. As for the UCA I have I think either AC delco professional (gm replacemnt) or moog problem solvers. And each one has a blown boot.

The free travel mod is done, and actually the rear isn't the problem. The front feels like everything is solid, so each bump I hit jolts the whole truck, and it's not solid in the great handling aspect either.

Also for reference I'm running 20s. So uts not from a thin sidewall on the tires.

Side note. What's the best way to keep the boots from tearing? That seems to be my biggest issue.

Being careful on install may help the boots last longer, I hope my Moog PS UCAs last a while, if not I did notice that Kryptonite is now making UCAs for these trucks and they look badass! They have a set of leveled trucks or regular height, not sure if the Belltech alignment bushings would fit them or not. If My UCAs wear out again I will likely move to this option.

Also kryptonite has pretty nice poly boots instead of rubber.

 

[Bombsquad85]

Being careful on install may help the boots last longer, I hope my Moog PS UCAs last a while, if not I did notice that Kryptonite is now making UCAs for these trucks and they look badass! They have a set of leveled trucks or regular height, not sure if the Belltech alignment bushings would fit them or not. If My UCAs wear out again I will likely move to this option.

Also kryptonite has pretty nice poly boots instead of rubber.

How much are those beauties? Damn.

I also didn't realize the tie rods were $350ish lol.

Idk how much more money I want to put into this thing

 

[Bombsquad85]

I installed the Moog Problem Solver tie rods, upper control arms and lower ball joints on my 02 4 years and 30k miles ago and everything is still tight. I ran 26’s for at least a year. The Pitman arm was AC Delco Professional and idler arm and bracket were Moog. You have to make sure the Moog parts are the CK numbers not the RK which are their low grade line. AC Delco Professional parts should last as well. Nit sure why yours aren’t lasting.

I'm not sure.

I replaced my upper/lower control arms, inner/outer tie rods with Moog problem solvers maybe 2-2.5 years ago and about 50k miles on then. At the same time I did the pitman arm and idler arm and bracket with ac Delco Professional. I've already replaced both UCA at least once.

It's very frustrating and the ride is awful

 

[Dantheman1540]

How much are those beauties? Damn.

I also didn't realize the tie rods were $350ish lol.

Idk how much more money I want to put into this thing

I think the UCAs were $600 which is about double the cost of Moog PS series. But they look cool and I have no doubt they will last a long time.

I get not wanting to dump a bunch of money into an old rig

 

[Scottydoggs]

washed my dirty hoe. for real its been 6 months since its been washed. i do feel a bit bad for it. pic does it no justice on just how dirty it was.



cleaned up and some adams h2o on it. at least it shines again.

hoods got some messed up paint, time to get some SS decals or something to hide that crap.

then because it was just flat out killing me to drive the work truck, i gave it another mercy washing, damn thing actually shined up. no adams on this. hell didnt even dry it lol wish i had a before pic. it was so dirty it was almost brown looking.

 

[915_Tahoe]

Did my first drive thru oil change this past Sunday, was to lazy to do the change at home. Also got the trucks realignment done after adjusting the passenger side torsion bolt down a bit to level the front out.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Did my first drive thru oil change this past Sunday, was to lazy to do the change at home. Also got the trucks realignment done after adjusting the passenger side torsion bolt down a bit to level the front out.

I hate those quick change places. They usually use ****** filters and oil.

 

[kbuskill]

I hate those quick change places. They usually use ****** filters and oil.

And either strip the threads in the oil pan or forget to tighten the plug and/or filter.